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searchlight

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About searchlight

  • Rank
    Newbie

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Mercury Sable GS
  • Engine
    3.0 Vulcan V6 OHV

Profile Information

  • Actual Name
    Marc
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Chapter
    Not Enrolled
  1. For anyone who is interested. I finally solved this shake and almost stall, stall problem. Despite experiencing no codes, and reading on the internet potential items that could cause the problem that I described, I replaced the MAF sensor, and the EGR Solenoid Valve. Then I removed the battery terminal for 30 minutes, and reconnected to clear the computer. For over a week now, the car does not shake or stall. Just to be safe, when I turn the ignition key, I hold the key in the on position for a second or two to prime the fuel pump. Don't really know if this makes a difference but it
  2. Just tried to recharge my ac using the AC Pro can and gauge. The gauge indicated that the pressure was fluctuating between the top of the green zone and then back down to zero. I then borrowed a Pro Gauge which indicated that the system was at maximum but only warm air was blowing, so I tried venting the excess by pressing the black nipple in the valve, and now it does not return to normal, and is leaking vacuum unless I screw the cap back on. My local mechanic said the valve or the line now needs to be replaced but the Autozone guy is implying that I only need to replace the ac serv
  3. Thanks for your input. Regarding the heater core, I have had my radiator guy flush it twice so far since last September. It works for awhile blowing warm to hot as I need it, then reverts back to cool. He offered to pour into the core flush chemical but at the risk of pin hole leaks. I know it would cost almost 1k to replace due to dashboard labor so I keep trying the flush. What do you think, try the flush again?
  4. Thanks for the clarification. So what I am getting here is that some high mileage Taurus Sable model years suffer from rough starting and heater core problems. Would you agree?
  5. One more thing, I thought about replacing the TPS,and even bought one but could not remove the rear facing mounting screws because of the awkward position. Someone suggested removing the entire TB to access the TPS screws but I do not want to play with it. Anyway, I have no CEL lights.
  6. Just checked my oil two days ago. A little dirty as it has 3k miles on it but no way close to looking thick like a milk shake. If this is true, thanks for the tip. Never knew to look for this. I guess the Ford guy expected me to jump at a coolant leak repair. Btw, I also changed the pcv and the hose connecting it to the engine, too. So I guess the consensus so far is that the Vulcans tend to shake for a few seconds before smoothing out on starting after they have accumulated many miles. A design flaw?
  7. North Jersey. No, I did not because my local Ford dealer suggested that it might be coolant leaking into a cylinder. My Radiator guy who does the Heater Core flushing, and who does other auto repair work, suggested removing the TB for a thorough cleaning. Do not want to throw money at unnecessary repairs, so I am trying spray cleaning the TB which seems, and the operative word is seems, to help so far but I am not sure yet. If it is a coolant or oil leak, that will be expensive. I am not losing coolant or oil due to any noticeable leaks.
  8. Tried BWD, and in mine it did not work, made idle worse. Replaced with generic Hitachi brand who makes the part for Ford. Other than the minute shake, idle for me while waiting at stop lights is rock smooth. RPM does not fluctuate. When the car shakes on occasional start, I do notice the RPM fluctuate at very low RPM before I floor the accelerator while in Park and then the car smooths out.
  9. I own a 1997 Sable GS with the 3.0L Vulcan. I bought the car used with 98k miles last year and have an unusual problem On occasion when I start the car, the engine will start to shake a few seconds but will not stall. I have replaced the coil, the alternator, the battery, fuel filter, IAC Valve, the spark plugs and wires, clean the MAF, and used Seafoam at one time, and then Techron Fuel System Cleaner. I also performed routine maintenance: oil change, transmission flush, radiator flush, and had to have the heater core flushed twice because of the infamous loss of heat problem that everyone ta
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