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ilh last won the day on May 18 2011

ilh had the most liked content!

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About ilh

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    Regular Member
  • Birthday 11/08/1991

Car Information

  • My Car
    2000 SE
  • Engine
    Duratec 24V

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    richmond, bc
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    Not Enrolled
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  1. Coming back from the dead again... Car got put back on the road in middle of september, got Centennials, new struts, new rotors, good old tune-up, blah blah blah... Was super excited to see my car with 1/2" of drop after the strut tab mod but my old Motorcraft struts (possibly still the originals?!) were so seized my car actually grew 3/4" in the front... Finally got my 4 oil samples sent in the mail from the last year and a half... and to be honest I'm scared. We'll see what it says, hopefully the motor's still got some life left. New jobsite means between work and back, and some pleasure in between, I'm driving over 60 miles a day. Put 3000 miles on it in about a month and a half... Should roll over 210K miles (338,000 kms) in the next couple weeks. Other then that, just keep 'er full of gas... 22mpg US mixed still, so no complaints there. Ian
  2. As best as I know, the Vulcan is a pedestal mount rocker just like the 80's 302 Mustang heads... Thus you should be able to order a set for a Fox-body Mustang and have two leftovers for display. I don't really recommend running the 1.8 ratio rockers (regardless if Morana sold them or not) because the valve will be ramping open way faster then it was ever intended to and that will beat the s**t out of your valvetrain in a hurry. Vulcanator - I have a set of Crane 1.7's brand new in box that could be yours for the $225 I paid for them. Bought 'em for the mustang but then bought new heads that required stud mount rockers.
  3. Try being a welder with your own rig.. My truck, boss's tools... That's like $10K of toys tools in front of that Hitachi 400 I was servicing. Its a shame our customer didnt like paying us, I miss that 6mpg, big, rough-riding, ugly 9000lb behemoth.
  4. Since there's welding to talk about, I'll come out of the lurker closet... The best way to do this is with a TIG machine... If the cams stay in the car for the welding, I would avoid wire welding the cams at all costs. I've done enough clean-up in the fab shop to see small bits of wire spatter end up in all sorts of strange places. To drive the oil out, heat the cam up with a propane/acetylene torch, make the oil sweat out of the pores of the metal. Then clean it off with a solvent, lacquer thinner or carb cleaner... But whatever you do don't use brake cleaner (unless you want to kill your hired welder!) Any welder with a ticket can do this, it's a breeze compared to all-position pipe. I wish I had a set of cams to play with, I would take them to school and show you exactly what I'm talking about! Any other welding questions, I'm only a PM away... Ian
  5. Pretty sure that's me. Making a living welding in the sawmills and currently studying for my pressure ticket on pipe. If you get sealer in where your weld is, you're going to get porosity (think swiss cheese and you aren't far off) which not only makes it brittle but completely unsound for any sort of strength. But that's not your biggest issue. It's one thing to structurally weld two pieces of metal together... it's another to seal weld something (as in, to make it water-tight.) And on 20 gauge sheet metal like you're about to work on, you physically can't put enough heat into the panel without blowing holes in it. (Ask Shady, hes the autobody guy, I'm sure he's heard experienced it before.) And then, if you do somehow get it to hold water after welding... Your roof is going to look like the goddamned Pacific Ocean with all the waves and ripples in it. Metal distorts. It's a fact of life. But it's going to look like s**t on the roof of your car. Hell, if you get enough distortion into your car, your doors might not even close anymore. Plus, if your insurance company ever found out you modified the roof (which is, by the way, a major structural component in your car) they will probably deny your claim. If you mechanically adhere it (That is, with an adhesive/glue) good luck getting it to be 100% water-proof without using a 5-gallon pail's worth of silicone. And don't forget, after you cut the roof, the paint is probably going to chip and flake and look like total garbage. But that's probably okay because at that point you'll just go down to Autozone and pick up a can of color match, right? A respected friend of mine is in the auto collision trade and he says "Ask any good auto bodyman and he'll tell you the one job he'll never put his name on - and that's swapping a roof on a car." Even if you properly remove it at the spot welds in the pillars and replace it with a new panel, you'll have so much labor into the car it exceeds the value of the vehicle. In short... Leave sunroofs to the pro's. This sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Sorry to ruin your dreams. Ian
  6. Friend is parting out his '94 SHO, so I got the tires (and SHO slicers) for $400... Yep, Eagle GT's... Car handles the same in the dry but I'm really impressed with the wet. Car still hydroplanes when there's a good old dump of Vancouver rain, but it just seems more "predictable", doesnt want to pull one way or the other. Makes hydroplaning an overall much less scary event. On the 1st of the month it rolled over this milestone (of kilometers, I should mention) aaand it rolled over 326K yesterday... so at this rate it'll have the equivalent of 203,000 miles by the 22nd or 23rd. Planning on putting the Mustang together this month, so in the summer when the GT is my daily driver, I'm going to rip the Taurus apart and give it all the service that it's so desperately crying for! Until then, it'll just have to keep getting me to school
  7. This is very interesting.... My cruise control cable has been acting up for a while now (and is currently disconnected) but for what seems to be a different reason... The issue with mine is not the end where everyone is zip-tying, but at the end of the housing where the plastic clip is... the housing comes out of the clip and hangs up on the side. The problem only rears it's head when I've been juvenile and punched the throttle... First time it happened I was left with a car hanging at 3000RPM that wouldn't slow down for the pending right turn. It's a scary ride, but like it's been said previously in the thread, your car will merely bounce redline until you get it stopped and shut down. It's hard to explain, but if y'all are interested I'll intentionally stick it (with the car off, of course) to show you what I mean. Fingers crossed they'll include the 2000's, I don't feel like paying for a new cable... Ian
  8. Agree completely. Pop's 07 has 130K kms... only 80K miles but he complained of his car making a strange chirp. I couldn't hear it that day, but I wasn't about to take any chanches. Rolling the dice on a part which is a known weak point on his daily driver is something that I won't be caught doing. Synchronizer came out the next business day. By the way, thanks Nick for the sticky
  9. Completely misunderstood your post. Did you pull out metal or just cross-thread it? I.e., will a chase with a tap and a good smear of red Loctite seal it up? Is the motor in the car or still on a stand? If it's easy, I'd say just throw a helicoil in there. If inserts are holding up my spark plugs, a buddy's carburetor, and another buddy's brake calipers... A Helicoil's probably safe for your crankshaft. Those dampener bolts aren't exactly a grade 5, I would imagine... Best stick with the original. Just my $0.02. Ian
  10. BTTT - Admins, why is this not a sticky?! You have to use the search function to find this write-up! Used this to fix my father's '07 tonight. Thanks Spridget for this old, but still very good, write-up. The only thing I had trouble with was the strange plastic cover for the wiring loom that was conveniently overtop the synchro... Pain that was! I ended up undoing the clips and using a flat-blade screwdriver to help push it up over the fuel rail so I had access to the synchro. The gear was healthy but the bearings were definitely chirping... Cost $295 for the Motorcraft part but it's worth every cent of the piece of mind, knowing that pop won't lose oil pressure coming home from work any time soon Ian
  11. How is the engine balanced, internally or externally (like the 302?) If you run a bigger tap through, you're probably going to have to drill out the flywheel to fit the larger bolt and that just sounds messy. Whatever you do, I'd be tempted to say do it to all 6, as not to effect the balance of the crankshaft. 8 grams ain't a big deal until you're at 7000RPM... Ian
  12. Robert, consider the following... The Ranger Station This means that you can easily put a 1.84/1.56 set of valves in from Mustang GT40 heads.. Even 1.94/1.60s if you were feeling really racy Get more from your 3.8L However - let's assume your 4.2L will fit in the Taurus... What do you do for a transmission? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Gen1/2 3.8's only came with AX4S's and they already burned those up with the stock 3.8. And you'll have to fight with the old computer which might not like the hopped up motor (especially if you put a cam in, ask us Mustang guys how much speed density computers like camshaft changes ) Your only other option is to swap the whole Freestar harness to get the AX4N transmission & OBD-II computer... but that sounds like a pain in the ass! And here's the other kicker... 263 lb-ft of torque from the 4.2 will also boil an AX4N... Just google "Freestar transmission problems" and you'll see what I mean... It's like the Windstar crisis all over again. Keep in mind I'm a biased source, I don't really like 3.8's... I think you're much better off picking a different engine to hop up. Ian
  13. Nick - Cylinder #1, by the Haynes manual coughed up at 307K... lucky enough to be able to re-insert it on the side of the road, huck a JY coil in with the same plug and get on my merry way. Was good ever since. Cylinder #2 (rear bank, middle cylinder, impossible to get to) coughed up at ~319K at which point I then kicked myself because I was aware the problem had existed but hadn't done anything about it. I even thought to myself at a drive-thru window "Gee my car almost sounds like it has a lifter tick, better check that when I get home." You'll find this thought curious because of course a DOHC has cam followers, not lifters. What I later discovered this noise was, was a warning sign because high-compression air was leaking past the plug on the cylinder that coughed it up less then 48 hours later. Some say the 2000's are a fine line to torque - too little and the plug walks out, too much and you ruin the fragile aluminum threads. It's also an obvious suggestion that there simply are too few threads on the head - more threads and a longer plug could have resolved this quite easily, IMO. Both of my failures were at 70+MPH and after a full day's driving at such speed... I'm going to throw a wild guess out there and suspect the thermal expansion between the taper on the aluminum cylinder head and the profile of the steel plug has something to do with the matter as well. Mileage has been poor since the repair (18.5MPG) but only because the car's been tuned for 93 Performance and I've been making sure it still has all 200 horsepower Hopefully this week will be better, my wallet has dictated that I revert back to the 87 Economy tune. In better news... The picture is on my phone but it rolled over 321,000 kms the other day. 321,868.8 kilometers is the golden number we're looking for this week.... In American terms, that's exactly 200K miles.
  14. Well, I've been lurking for a long time and I'll explain why now... this is gonna be a long-ass post. Mid-november I'm just taking it easy at home, Tuesday afternoon at about 2:30 and Rick (hes the fellow that dispatches all of us tradesmen to jobs) calls me up... "Are you available for work?" Yup! "Do you have snow tires on your car yet?" Well, no, why? "We need more guys in Revelstoke and it's about -5 up there these days... so you're going to need snow tires. You want to go?" When does it start? "You'll start driving tomorrow, so you can start work on Thursday." Oh s**t. Let me get to the tire shop and call you back. I RIPPED over to my buddy at the tire shop, had 2 Hankook winters put on to the tune of $400, and called Rick right back saying I would go. Revelstoke, by the way, is a small town 7 hours away from Vancouver... Approximately 450-500 miles away. The car ran flawlessly all the way there, all week through and on the way home, I'm halfway home, doing 75mph on the highway 20km from Boston Bar (pretty well between Bumf**k, Nowhere and s**tsville, Nowhere) and POP! Car starts missing. Badly. Oh s**t. I knew what had happened. My car had blown another ******* plug out of the rear cylinder head. It did this about 7500 miles ago on a different cylinder at another terribly inconvienient time... Last time was 1030pm on a Montana highway... This time it's 4pm on a BC highway... It's about -8, thinking about snowing, and it's getting dark, FAST. It's going to be about -15 overnight, sleeping in my car is suicide and no way in hell am I sleeping at a greasy motel in Boston Bar overnight. I had BCAA (the Canadian equivalent to AAA) but even still, it was a 230km tow... Cost me $265 to get the car home. Would have been over $750 without BCAA. (On the bright side, I made about $1900 in 5 days for the trip including LOA.) So then I got out the heli-coil kit out and prepared to helicoil my engine... but realized it was next to impossible to have it be reliably done so I didn't put the inserts in... Then I found the Timesert kit for Triton engines... Ordered it up and waited for it to arrive in the mail... Gentlemen, I can't stress this enough.... The Timesert #5553 is the best $500 I have ever spent on tools. The kit is brilliantly designed and even a monkey could repair an engine with it. And no, I swear to god, they did not pay me to say that. The insert has a flange on the top, Loctite in the middle, and it cold rolls into the cylinder head at the bottom of the insert. I have no doubt that this repair will last for a very long time. So I slapped it all together, turned the key... My car ran like a bag of s**t. Misfire, misfire, misfire. Took me all week to figure it out. Sometimes it would run pretty good... but then 20 minutes later have a flashing check engine light, no power, so bad you'd have to pull over. I tried everything... swap coils, swap the new plugs for old ones, new intake gaskets, clean the MAF, re-tune my car back to stock.... After a week of screwing around after the repair, my friend Mike came to the rescue... The answer was a weak COP. It ran just well enough that it did throw a P0305 misfire code, but not a P0355 coil failure code. We put in a spare coil, and turned the key... Perfect idle. My car broke down on November 19th... Today is December 26th. I retuned my car back to 93 Octane Performance, got in, turned the key and drove the snot out of my car tonight for the first time in over a month. It felt so good to be back in my own car without a worry that it would break down again.
  15. Well, I bought an '87 Mustang GT in late October... it sat for a little while, while I shuffled vehicles (scrapped my '69 C10 that was too far gone, sold the F450, and cleaned the hell out of my garage afterwards) Work got busy the last few weeks so I went on a buying spree... Headers, X pipe, Magnaflow mufflers for the exhaust... bought a motor for $500 with a BBK intake, E303 cam and MSD distributor already... T-5 and B&M short-throw for $200... Then a buddy and I bought a parts-car LX and we've since cannibalized that... Went to the boxing day sales at Mopac today and dropped to the order of $900 on parts Got a 255lph fuel pump, roller rocker conversion kit, clutch firewall adjuster, linelock, plug wires, header boots, Stage 8 locking bolts, Ford Racing 4.10s for the rear end, BBK cold air intake, etc etc etc... All thats left is the mass air conversion, the speedo gears, slap all my parts together and stab them into the car... Then turn the key, drop the clutch, and drive the living snot out of it.
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