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ilh

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ilh last won the day on May 18 2011

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About ilh

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 11/08/1991

Car Information

  • My Car
    2000 SE
  • Engine
    Duratec 24V

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    richmond, bc
  • Chapter
    Not Enrolled
  • TCCA Name
    ilh
  1. Coming back from the dead again... Car got put back on the road in middle of september, got Centennials, new struts, new rotors, good old tune-up, blah blah blah... Was super excited to see my car with 1/2" of drop after the strut tab mod but my old Motorcraft struts (possibly still the originals?!) were so seized my car actually grew 3/4" in the front... Finally got my 4 oil samples sent in the mail from the last year and a half... and to be honest I'm scared. We'll see what it says, hopefully the motor's still got some life left. New jobsite means between work and back, and some pleasure
  2. As best as I know, the Vulcan is a pedestal mount rocker just like the 80's 302 Mustang heads... Thus you should be able to order a set for a Fox-body Mustang and have two leftovers for display. I don't really recommend running the 1.8 ratio rockers (regardless if Morana sold them or not) because the valve will be ramping open way faster then it was ever intended to and that will beat the s**t out of your valvetrain in a hurry. Vulcanator - I have a set of Crane 1.7's brand new in box that could be yours for the $225 I paid for them. Bought 'em for the mustang but then bought new heads that r
  3. Try being a welder with your own rig.. My truck, boss's tools... That's like $10K of toys tools in front of that Hitachi 400 I was servicing. Its a shame our customer didnt like paying us, I miss that 6mpg, big, rough-riding, ugly 9000lb behemoth.
  4. Since there's welding to talk about, I'll come out of the lurker closet... The best way to do this is with a TIG machine... If the cams stay in the car for the welding, I would avoid wire welding the cams at all costs. I've done enough clean-up in the fab shop to see small bits of wire spatter end up in all sorts of strange places. To drive the oil out, heat the cam up with a propane/acetylene torch, make the oil sweat out of the pores of the metal. Then clean it off with a solvent, lacquer thinner or carb cleaner... But whatever you do don't use brake cleaner (unless you want to kill your
  5. Pretty sure that's me. Making a living welding in the sawmills and currently studying for my pressure ticket on pipe. If you get sealer in where your weld is, you're going to get porosity (think swiss cheese and you aren't far off) which not only makes it brittle but completely unsound for any sort of strength. But that's not your biggest issue. It's one thing to structurally weld two pieces of metal together... it's another to seal weld something (as in, to make it water-tight.) And on 20 gauge sheet metal like you're about to work on, you physically can't put enough heat into the panel wit
  6. Friend is parting out his '94 SHO, so I got the tires (and SHO slicers) for $400... Yep, Eagle GT's... Car handles the same in the dry but I'm really impressed with the wet. Car still hydroplanes when there's a good old dump of Vancouver rain, but it just seems more "predictable", doesnt want to pull one way or the other. Makes hydroplaning an overall much less scary event. On the 1st of the month it rolled over this milestone (of kilometers, I should mention) aaand it rolled over 326K yesterday... so at this rate it'll have the equivalent of 203,000 miles by the 22nd or 23rd. Plannin
  7. This is very interesting.... My cruise control cable has been acting up for a while now (and is currently disconnected) but for what seems to be a different reason... The issue with mine is not the end where everyone is zip-tying, but at the end of the housing where the plastic clip is... the housing comes out of the clip and hangs up on the side. The problem only rears it's head when I've been juvenile and punched the throttle... First time it happened I was left with a car hanging at 3000RPM that wouldn't slow down for the pending right turn. It's a scary ride, but like it's been said pr
  8. Agree completely. Pop's 07 has 130K kms... only 80K miles but he complained of his car making a strange chirp. I couldn't hear it that day, but I wasn't about to take any chanches. Rolling the dice on a part which is a known weak point on his daily driver is something that I won't be caught doing. Synchronizer came out the next business day. By the way, thanks Nick for the sticky
  9. Completely misunderstood your post. Did you pull out metal or just cross-thread it? I.e., will a chase with a tap and a good smear of red Loctite seal it up? Is the motor in the car or still on a stand? If it's easy, I'd say just throw a helicoil in there. If inserts are holding up my spark plugs, a buddy's carburetor, and another buddy's brake calipers... A Helicoil's probably safe for your crankshaft. Those dampener bolts aren't exactly a grade 5, I would imagine... Best stick with the original. Just my $0.02. Ian
  10. BTTT - Admins, why is this not a sticky?! You have to use the search function to find this write-up! Used this to fix my father's '07 tonight. Thanks Spridget for this old, but still very good, write-up. The only thing I had trouble with was the strange plastic cover for the wiring loom that was conveniently overtop the synchro... Pain that was! I ended up undoing the clips and using a flat-blade screwdriver to help push it up over the fuel rail so I had access to the synchro. The gear was healthy but the bearings were definitely chirping... Cost $295 for the Motorcraft part but it's worth
  11. How is the engine balanced, internally or externally (like the 302?) If you run a bigger tap through, you're probably going to have to drill out the flywheel to fit the larger bolt and that just sounds messy. Whatever you do, I'd be tempted to say do it to all 6, as not to effect the balance of the crankshaft. 8 grams ain't a big deal until you're at 7000RPM... Ian
  12. Robert, consider the following... The Ranger Station This means that you can easily put a 1.84/1.56 set of valves in from Mustang GT40 heads.. Even 1.94/1.60s if you were feeling really racy Get more from your 3.8L However - let's assume your 4.2L will fit in the Taurus... What do you do for a transmission? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Gen1/2 3.8's only came with AX4S's and they already burned those up with the stock 3.8. And you'll have to fight with the old computer which might not like the hopped up motor (especially if you put a cam in, ask us Mustang guys how much speed density
  13. Nick - Cylinder #1, by the Haynes manual coughed up at 307K... lucky enough to be able to re-insert it on the side of the road, huck a JY coil in with the same plug and get on my merry way. Was good ever since. Cylinder #2 (rear bank, middle cylinder, impossible to get to) coughed up at ~319K at which point I then kicked myself because I was aware the problem had existed but hadn't done anything about it. I even thought to myself at a drive-thru window "Gee my car almost sounds like it has a lifter tick, better check that when I get home." You'll find this thought curious because of course a
  14. Well, I've been lurking for a long time and I'll explain why now... this is gonna be a long-ass post. Mid-november I'm just taking it easy at home, Tuesday afternoon at about 2:30 and Rick (hes the fellow that dispatches all of us tradesmen to jobs) calls me up... "Are you available for work?" Yup! "Do you have snow tires on your car yet?" Well, no, why? "We need more guys in Revelstoke and it's about -5 up there these days... so you're going to need snow tires. You want to go?" When does it start? "You'll start driving tomorrow, so you can start work on Thursday." Oh s**t. Let me get
  15. Well, I bought an '87 Mustang GT in late October... it sat for a little while, while I shuffled vehicles (scrapped my '69 C10 that was too far gone, sold the F450, and cleaned the hell out of my garage afterwards) Work got busy the last few weeks so I went on a buying spree... Headers, X pipe, Magnaflow mufflers for the exhaust... bought a motor for $500 with a BBK intake, E303 cam and MSD distributor already... T-5 and B&M short-throw for $200... Then a buddy and I bought a parts-car LX and we've since cannibalized that... Went to the boxing day sales at Mopac today and dropped to the o
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