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Everything posted by Robert

  1. I'll post pics tomorrow of the problem area. I think this is one of the very first alternators they have ever made for a Taurus to be honest. They go off of specs from the stock alternator and engine specs. It was literally 1/8" or so that caused the problem. Little play time with the grinder fixed everything.
  2. Just to the argument part. I have seem a few Ford alternators fry with internal voltage regulators. My brothers 97 ranger just did recently actually. Luckily he had a voltage meter and noticed voltage jumping up to 15.x out of no where and replaced it but I do believe a dummy light would come on before it let voltage get dangerously high for any extended period of time. Also once the regulator completely fries I believe it just quits charging altogether. The case is fully "custom" as far as they make them and aren't rebuilt alternators. I actually had some issues with fitment since this was sl
  3. Correct guys. I have a 270XP alternator from DC Power. Does 200amps of power at engine idle and over 270 above 1,500rpm. If i put a bigger pulley on it it would be really ******* the engine at idle.
  4. I have a new alternator with a slightly smaller pulley. The stock belt fits but slips like crazy with AC on. The alternator also has a much bigger load then the stock alt. I will likely go to one of the worthless auto parts stores and shoot one of the employees until they figure out what a belt is then once I get the right size forget it happened. Just hoping I don't have to go through all that. Lol.
  5. Hey guys. I'm in need of a new serpentine belt about 1/2" shorter then standard. I believe stock is 85 inches and I need one right around 84 1/2"s. I'm all over the interweb trying to find what I need but maybe someone more part swavy has a easier way to look?
  6. Lol! I know Brian. Thats on my list to do this summer. I'm busy for the next month atleast but maybe me and the lady can head up to chicago for a weekend since I've never been and meet up
  7. Thanks guys. Slowly getting better with fiberglass. Lol. It's a very nice skill to obtain but it's a pain getting it right.
  8. They just never got 100% complete. It was a really big project to take on for my first ever fiberglass project. They were pretty good I guess you could say but I was never happy with them no matter what I tried to finish them over the past 3-4-5 months. These speakers are way better then what I had anyways and it is a HUGE improvement. I've never heard live music and guitar solos sound so awesome with these. This is about the best that the last set ever got which the picture makes it look better. lol As you can see though there is no way to get a paint to match and look good without redoin
  9. And no I'm not done with the sal pod yet in that first picture. Have some more sanding to so before I paint but ran out of time.
  10. Long story short. Over the winter I got really REALLY into car audio and just didn't get on here as much besides to just keep up in people and see what was new. Hopefully I'll be back around a little more now. Have to replace my heater core tomorrow so I'm sure I'll get lost. Lol. But back on topic! I know people used to ask and no one ever tried. My last door panels were entirely fiberglass from the middle down holding two sets of 6.5" component speakers. Managed to get a new direction going and am installing a set of Hertz HSK 163s now. A three way setup. But doing all this and customizing
  11. Well. I've been gone for a while mainly due to work and stress but I'm still alive and driving my bull every day this was done back in November I just never posted anything here. But I got a new box for my DC XL in with a 6" aero port on a US Amps Merlin 2K RMS amp. This is how it ws before I finished cleaning it up with some dust still being freshly installed. And some TL time. Did 140.8 on the dash drivers door open at peak is 32hz which I likely a lot. Box is tuned to 34.
  12. Plug and play. I recommend taking the drivers seat out if it's easy enough for you to do. Remove the kick panel. Then the bar that goes across underneath so four bolts in total and then the sjb has I believe 1 bolt in each harness and then two bolts at the bottom and it slides down and out. Plug in the new one. Enjoy. All the bolts are between 7-10mm
  13. I replaced the SJB in mine. Cost $50 from the local yard. It's been a while so I hope this is right. There are maybe 3 different SJBs. One will say HIGH, then one is HIGH DRL and maybe one that's just DRL. You want one that does not have the DRL types onto the side of the sjb casing. And I think you're referring to tauruskev who was looking through the actual computer board of the sjb and saw the differences of the ones with and without DRL. No one ever hacked one apart to try this though.
  14. In my backyard in my privacy fence locked. Wish I had a garage.
  15. Nice. I have two I'm not using I got for 6 bucks at the local yard. Just said it's the factory radio brain and they said 12 bucks. Lol. Shouldn't be a scam. Just someone not knowing what it's worth.
  16. Great job Brian! You really do have a gen 4 others want. Keep up the great work!
  17. Alright. Finally back from MIA. Lol. Been busy as s**t for a few weeks. Here's the pics a week later....
  18. Ok. So I forgot to take a pic tonight. Lol. Just been working a LOT lately. Will get one up tomorrow. Promise
  19. I am saying no to 10k lol. I like these a lot. I didn't modify the housing at all. They are in the stock positions. I'll get a pic of how the look now. Never updated after I aimed them. Honestly the output is similar to halogen. I do have them aimed a little low but I never get flashed and had people drive in front of me and they said my lights don't bug them at all
  20. My brother audioque system is tuned to 36 and I like it's overall response better but he can't play low anywhere near as good as I can. Lol. Just sucks he has a ranger with 2 12s in a blow through. s**ts so much louder with the same power. I hate trucks. Lol
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