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About GreenMachine

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  • My Car
    1999 Mercury Sable LS Sedan - 305,000 miles!
  • Engine
    Duratech 24v DOHC

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  1. Bump to thread - UPDATE: For those that may still be interested, the car is still for sale - Pictures available on request. Please note, however the asking price is back to original $800, with the car located in New Jersey. I would really *LOVE* to see the car get a 2nd home with a Taurus/Sable owner...someone that could possibly give her a happy home as a backup car, more than becoming a Hanger Queen....if you think that it may be you, please - reply to the thread or even shoot me a DM to this account.
  2. Car is in New Jersey, its a Sedan...And I can give you pics, in the morning, if your on.
  3. EASY MECHANICS SPECIAL - Car has High miles (352,000), but have some of maintenance records left. Car has a lot of life left, if you have the tools to do the work need a parts car of your own to use. Here's the deal: The car DOES run; it will start, it will reverse, but not into drive - It's most likely the Transmission Pump shaft that needs to be replaced, and I cannot do it at this time. What needs to be done: * - New Motor Oilpan (will throw in for free), old one thread was stripped, and the hole was plugged with Quicksteel. * - Hole in Exhaust near front wheel needs patching * - Dipstick needs replacement * - Shocks & Struts are due to be replaced. * - Change the rear tires (half tread on front set) * - Headlights lens could use a shine. (Toothpaste in a pinch or any light abrasive) * - Windshield has crack (no leak) and bullseye in it (rock), may be better to change, but never stopped or got a ticket because of it. * - Trunk hood may need new rubber gasket seal - leaked a little but not for awhile. Powered Trunk remote works fine. * - OEM 16" Aluminum hubs...either needs polishing for curb rash or replace at owner discretion. The Good Stuff!: * - No leaks or other ECM issues inside cabin. The drivers seat has a 6" tear at the seam in the cushion, but can be stitched or covered with new seat cover...all other seats pristine! * - Airbags were NEVER deployed. NEVER. Fully working powered Sunroof, again NO LEAKS. * - Stock radio Only - No other aftermarket changes added, still has original keyless entry and two sets of keys fobs. Power Windows/Door Locks/Drivers Seat, all still good. Carpet is clean and headliner is still in place no sags. * - Rear defroster works. Recently recharged A/C (R134) which works Great! * - Changed the Front Hub bearing, Water Pump, and Brake line within last 5 years. New Spark Plugs & wires done (OEM). * - Body has some rusting underneath near the trim line and a small patch over the rear passenger wheel well, and a little around the hood edge, but that's it. Again, if you have a similar car or even think you can fix the car up quick, it would make a GREAT backup car or even student car to own. This is the Vulcan engine so you get a lot of power, and its good in all weather, and roomy for 5 adults inside. The trunk is HUGE. If you owned a Taurus of a similar year, the parts are swap-able with it, Engine/Trans parts only for similar DOHC engines. ASKING FOR $800 - Which a good yard could strip that for the Tranny and airbags alone. Title in hand, will make deal fast - BUT must tow car, so you need to bring a flatbed. If you answer right away AND you can get the car out by FRIDAY 9/30 6pm - I will knock the ask price DOWN to <<< $500 >>>, No Questions Asked. < Cash Only Deal >
  4. Okay, that gives me a place to start...Would these able to be diagnosed by a general mechanic or should I bite the bullet and go to a Transmission shop? Trying to avoid place like AMMCO, because if its just a sensor I got the feeling they'll "sell" me a rebuilt transmission as a fix... As far as a TRS, is that something I can change/repair myself? I'm good and VERY thankful for Youtube vids...lol...but I'm no diehard mechanic...I'm better installing electronics inside the cab...lol
  5. Nope, stick is firmly in the tubing bottomed out and check within normal temps.
  6. So, as stated before, I was able to fix the vacuum leak on the Sable, which I thought was the cause for the thread topic. But now, I put car in gear, but no forward motion at all. I dont even get the "THUNK!" you get when you shift into D or 1 or 2. Engine races and that's all she does. But, put it into reverse, it does thunk a little, and it will go, albeit verrrry slow. Since I can't drive in reverse everywhere...even in the Northeast...I am hoping it's not a sign of transmission doom ( Transmission oil is topped off, color looks okay. So from what I can find, it could be the VSS, TPS or the transmission. Trying not to play "change the part, bring it back" game...its a LONG walk to Autozone. LOL Anyone experience this or a fix?
  7. Well, good news is, I was able to wrangle a small enough soft vacuum connector to squeeze into the broken hose end and into the distribution block...no more vacuum leak at that point. Bad news is...No front drive at all...so on to a new thread...lol I love my car....:eyeroll:...lmao
  8. Well I tried removing the box from the firewall, but the bolts/nuts are pretty much fused together, so unless I take a Dremel to them, there they stay. and just my luck I really don't have any flexible tubing...but I do have a bit of rigid tubing I think was a plastic fuel line...so I will try that. By look and feel, I can't locate a seam where I can crack it open...unless someone has one and can tell me where to look for the best place to do so? And just my luck, because without that piece being fixed I cant drive: The car starts motor runs ok, but no drive in any gear or reverse..and the closets auto-parts place is a good 40 minute walk away...each way....lol
  9. Well, it looks like a a vacuum 'T' that's inside the box...I haven't removed the junction block yet to see if I can open it to replace the 'T"...assuming it can be done. Tried using Black Gasket maker to "Glue" it in place for repair, didn't work...also tried a cutting down a vacuum T from a Dorman kit, but none would fit on either end, even with shaving the sides with a file. MAYBE a small enough piece of hose could do it, but it would have to be able to be stiff enough to withstand vacuum, I think.
  10. Sorry about that, using the crappy MS Paint editor so its not like Photoshop or Quark Xpress... ) The Line is connected to the box, it would be in the lower left side corner when you face the box bolted to firewall. The Box is marked (Top Left) A/C, then (Top Right) B/B, then (Lower Left) S - which is two lines the one directly in front is ok, the one in the corner BEHIND that one is the broken line..and the last one is marked A/I Okay so its distribution box, now the 99cent question...how hard will the fix be? lmao
  11. Evening Everyone: So I got a new problem (of course). When replacing the spark plugs on my Sable, it looks like I inadvertently cracked a vacuum line on the back of the head. Problem is, I can't ID the hose or the part it was attached to, so of course I came back to plead for help and/or a good fix. LOL Here's a link/pic of the broken part (Circled in Red): https://tinyurl.com/obkbvkc Question is 2 part: 1 - What exactly i s the correct name for the line? My Chilton/Haynes manuals are less than helpful (read:useless). I tried using vacuum Tees AND using RTV sealant to try to fix, but no go. So my only other option is to replace hose, I think. 2 - The 4-way Box that the hose was connected to, is it safe/wise to unbolt & open it? One of the lines goes to the Brake Booster, so I don't want to introduce air into the brake system if i can help it, but would that be the only way to really repair this? PS: The fuel line clamp you see there wasn't there originally: The damn clip dropped off whilst I was in the repair process and fell, apparently into a wormhole somewhere between the engine block and the pavement...LOL
  12. Well, for now, i will more likely just replace the pan. I covered the bolt with Weld & QuikSteel to retain the oil level, so may not be able to get off without taking off the pan anyway. Priced a replacement, got one for $50. Plus, new gasket. All goes well, i'll install it this week soonest.
  13. Well the main concern was to able to get to/from work at that time. So far it's holding, but yes i would be extremely happier with the damn thing working as it should. That being said, as I posted before, the worse-case scenario is to replace the pan (likely). I would gladly pay a shop to rebore a new hole close to the orginal for a new plug, as long its cost-prohibitive...and if they can do it while its still on the car, even better. The cost of a "new" pan is averaging $60 incld shipping...add in $30 for a new gasket thats $90. If it's a b***h to drop the pan (I have to unbolt part of the cat/ exahust?) then I can go to the local shop and just pay labor which can be $60-$90 for just ahour worth of work. Adds up... Besides I can put in the labor in the driveway got the safety gear but only basic shop tools, no air tools at all. But willing to learn, and I dont break stuff...it's a long walk down to the local Advance Auto...
  14. Well, so far the JB Weld lived up to its name...I love the stuff. LOL, funny thing is, it still drips oil at about the same rate as it was before, which was too much for me. Anyway. tomorrow I will repeat the cleaning steps, and buy some QuickSteel putty & another set of JB Weld...just in case, the stuff is handy. I figure with the Weld AND the putty filling in any leftover crack, should seal the deal. Its holding up for over 36 hours being driven about 60 miles at 70mph with 20 mins stop n go...so the oil is gonna be hot as hell. If i can't find a eBay/Junkyard pan for less than $50... :rant on: I know - The damn things run $60-120 from used to new,..it's aluminum and it costs as much as damn SILVER... :rant off: ANYWAY...I'll have to drop the pan and find a shop to drill a new tap hole. Something more covienet that the factory setup so i can get ALL the oil out...and a way to make it mess-free...hmmmm. Sorry, been a long day...I wont ramblepost for awhile now.
  15. Son of a ....LoudSho...you just described the piece in the pan!...I had to Bing Helicoil to realize what it was. That was prbably what was inserted, but I can't figure out for th elife of me, is why the factory didnt thread the damn thing in the first place! Were they THAT threatened by a aftermarket plug? Anyway, I still may do a new hole in the pan, while it sits on the car. Just have to figure heavy duty 24v cordless drill and the right type of plug.
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