Jump to content


Centennial Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About JoeAsheville

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/03/1971

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Ford Taurus G
  • Engine
    3.0 Vulcan V6 OHV

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Chapter

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. These wheels were purchased with the intent to run "steelies" on the car while my wife drove our Taurus to keep her from destroying a rare set of M177s. Nothing ever came of the project, so they are up for sale at a nice discount to free up the space. They are unilug. I sized them as closely to a SHO rim as I could in terms of backspacing, only in size 17x7. Never mounted. New price for me: in excess of $200. My price to you: $100 plus shipping. Bonus: hubcentric spacers. Located about an hour's drive north of Atlanta, GA on I-75. They can be picked up or shipped for actual cost. If you're interested in shipping, they are boxed very well and will ship fine anywhere. No trader rating on this site unfortunately, but I have a perfect trader rating on the main site I do business: SVTPerformance. It's the exact same username. PM or post here, E-mail jcargal at optilink dot us, or text at two one three, two two two, eight five six three with interest.
  2. Got one...not CarFax, but Experian. From what I understand, Experian has access to databases that CarFax does not. In the interest of "paying it forward", I'd like to make this service available on a limited basis. If you have a CarFax request, but would be OK with an Experian request, post up and I'll see if I can run it for you.
  3. I agree...D-N is pretty awesome He helped us out with some parts for the family truckster a while ago.
  4. Howdy folks...long story short...we're about to expect an addition to the family this coming June if all goes well, and I can only fit one car seat in my daily driver (the wife drives the Taurus, I drive a 35 year old Ford Courier). Life would be significantly easier if we had two Tauruses (Tauri?) in the driveway, that way we could transport the kiddos back and forth to daycare and Grandma/Grandpa's without doing a tremendous amount of vehicle shuffling and/or meeting in various places to hand off cars. Furthermore, I now have a decent amount of knowledge and parts that I can leverage to keep both cars running. Especially thanks to my friends here on TSOC! I believe I've found a fine example for reasonable cost that should give us reliable transportation, but I still should get a CarFax on it before considering it further. If anyone has an unlimited account, could you please help us with a CarFax? This should be a 1997 Ford Taurus with no accident history and Southern ownership all its life, therefore no (or little) rust. Thanks in advance for any help you could provide...this forum has really been a lifesaver lately. Joe
  5. Haha! Yep, that was me! You may not believe it...but those sway bars *just* made it into that very car 2 weeks ago. We've really been enjoying driving the ol' family truckster again
  6. I'm not sure if you can make it out, but in the horribly blurry second picture is a layer of dirt on the car. Last night was the first time that car had moved in a year and a half...it had been on jackstands for that long. Part of that dirt is pollen from the fall of 2013.
  7. Just got the springs today! Will be installing the one for the driver's side this evening. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!
  8. Alright folks, here's an SOS. Through a magical confluence of forces that I've managed to deflect with my tinfoil hat until tonight, the left (drivers) rear parking brake return spring has gone AWOL. I thought that I had picked up a caliper with a bracket for this build, but when I pulled it out of the box it was just the bare minimum...no bracket, no bolts, and most importantly...no parking brake return spring. At least they were nice enough to leave me a note stating that I would have to re use my old one. The problem is, the old junkyard caliper did not have one either. Argh. So...I'm looking at trying to find one locally used (unlikely, since most yards around here only sell the whole assembly), or breaking down and purchasing a new caliper which has what I need for $80, all for want of a return spring. That would mean using my newly rebuilt caliper as a core...a double whammy. I'm down to my last few dollars just trying to get this car back on the road folks...the junkyard calipers came with decent looking used brake pads so I'm reusing those (yep...USED brake pads)...so some help with a spring that someone could spare would be FANTASTIC. Thanks for any help you could provide...
  9. ...yep, the ones that practically everybody else is looking for The part numbers are 8641-1287, 8641-1323, or 8641-1288. Not too picky about these as long as they are either usable as-is, or rebuildable. Asking price should reflect condition. Alternatively, if anyone has figured out which 8641 series to pick up to have revalved to 1287/1288/1323 specification, I'm all ears. Thanks for looking!
  10. After pulling, pushing, re-arranging, uninstalling, re-installing, and generally working myself silly over this issue…I traveled to the East Atlanta Pull A Part and got two complete fuel/evap line assemblies. After disconnecting them front and rear, then unbolting them from the unit body (7 8mm bolts), they literally drop right out. Pretty simple really. They stayed in assemblies on the way home in the back of the truck, so they should just plug right in like Legos on our car. $23 per assembly at the yard, since they counted each line (there were 2 fuel plus 1 evap) and the fuel pressure regulator separately. I was surprised to discover (although, not as much later as I was initially after I devoted some thought to the issue) that all 96-99 Tauri on the yard exhibited signs of contact between the supply line (the one I have the issue with) and the passenger’s side rack boot. While I am disappointed that Ford thought this was acceptable (it’s obvious that this happens on each GenIII to a certain extent, so it would be impossible for them to deny existence of the problem), at least it’s not like the ignition switch failures that GM knew about and ignored that led to fatalities. I’m just going to attempt to band-aid a fix by adjusting the subframe forward to ensure minimal contact between the boot and the fuel supply line. Planning to plug a set of fuel lines in this week after I move the sub-frame forward. More later…
  11. Having an issue with my fuel hard lines, next to the firewall in a 1997 Taurus G. Long story short, a guy put an engine into this car that really didn't know his combination wrench from his screwdriver...and I've been fixing his mistakes one by one this week. It's between a long week in extremely hot weather. One particularly vexing issue I've had is with the fuel hard lines. I noticed that one fuel line had been rubbing against the steering rack boot for a while, and I attempted to reposition it. The end result is that if I place the lines where they appear to go in the clips, the curved line contacts the rack boot. Ultimately I was able to get everything out of the way, but it's far from ideal...several zip ties and a wooden wedge between the lines and the subframe to avoid abrasion. I think that this guy might have snagged something substantial on the fuel lines and bent them, but I'm not sure. Also, when I installed the solid subframe bushings I put the subframe back where it was installed...perhaps I should move it as far to the front of the car as possible to move it away from the fuel lines? I'd like to get this problem fixed correctly, but the current method would work so I could get the car to a mechanic for a better fix. Could someone snap a picture of this area so I could better see how these lines should be routed, or possibly help me with the order they should go in the clips?
  • Create New...