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njackson580

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Everything posted by njackson580

  1. Slowed down. I learned a hard lesson in smacking the bottom of a ball joint. Threads mushroomed and now the nut is stuck on there. Then I found the tie rods were bad, so I just decided with 159,xxx mi, and a minimum goal of 250,xxx, that I would replace everything. Ball joints are on the way. In talks with MOOG due to some part number changes to get bushings, end links, and inner/outer tie rod ends. I've been quietly embarrassed over the ball joint.... Haha On the plus side, I pulled the LCA rear bolt using a box wrench on the nut side pinned into the wheel well, and an 8" extension/u jo
  2. Good call on the wire, chart. I noticed mine was stretched, but it never seemed to actually detach. I'll try that on the other side.
  3. Update: I decided it would be easier to pull the rear bolt from the LCA. Once that bolt was out, I was actually able to remove the strut completely by hand. No hammers, no pry bars. Piece of cake. And as for the BJs, those polyurethane sleeves worked perfect! Thank you! BTW bull geek, how did you figure that one out?
  4. Ah... I remember installing my stereo. Got a pioneer avh p8400. Except I installed a new 4 channel amp altogether, completely bypassing the RCU. Ran 12g twisted wire to every corner. As far as my mic, I ran it up the passenger A pillar, tucked it into the headliner and slipped the clip into the headliner just above the rear view mirror. Seemed to help with wind noise. I can actually talk with the windows down.
  5. Awesome. I'll pick those up tomorrow. Have I told you guys lately how much you f-ing rock??
  6. Yes, Bull Geek. Ball joints are still snug. Took a bit of work to get the one out. How hard is it to put this sleeves on?
  7. Thanks for the tips guys! I've been scouring the forums trying g to find any info I can, and I stumbled across a post that said very specifically NOT to break the seal on the ball joint. From the pics above, you can see the tear I put in the existing Bj. Its all the way through, I can see metal through the hole (not so much in that particular pic). Do I need to replace that? I don't live anywhere near the rust belt out here in California.
  8. OK, so for 3 days I've been beating on my steering knuckle on my 03 sable per 1a autos YouTube video: I've got the sway bar, steering rod, brake caliper and rotor all disconnected, as well as all the things mentioned in the above video. I've also got the ball joint loose, but couldn't actually get it out for the same reason I can't lift the strut out: the control arm is bottoming out before it comes loose. The damage done: beating marks on top of the steering knuckle, lower strut tab bent to all hell from trying to pry it out, and I tore the rubber seal on the ball joint. The
  9. I considered all this, but the problem lays in the faces. If I remove the plastic delete plate, "SABLE" is actually clear, and any back light shows the guts of the cluster. I tried a few different methods, none of which were working. After I finish my struts/alternator project, I'll get back to it and I'm thinking just a couple or few SMD LEDS mounted on the delete plate. I think there is enough of a gap between the PRNDL delete and gauge face to do so. If anybody has any other ideas, I'd be happy to hear them. I've already tried several methods, none of which were to my satisfaction. Sen
  10. Technically the "SABLE" will light up, if I can figure out a way to light it with an indirect glow. I just ran out of time for the project. In time it will glow properly, like a marauder. :-) Thanks for the kudos though :-$ Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
  11. The most recent thing I've upgraded was my instrument cluster. I had a custom made white gauge overlay made by Whitegauges.net. if you look close, you'll see I deleted out my PRNDL delete plate with "SABLE". Also changed to blue LEDs. Full write up to follow how I did it and recalibrated my gauges. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
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