jw89sho

Sensor 2 (after cat) is there to monitor performance of the converter directly upstream. Usually sets a P0420 Converter Performance Problem code if it's not working. The signal from the sensor should be consistently high (0.7-0.9v) as it signals no unburnt fuel left in the exhaust stream. A poorly performing or absent converter will cause a signal similar to the upstream sensor, varying from 0.1 to 0.9v that tells the computer there is not enough processing happening in the converter.

You could attach the yellow wire from the radio to the cigarette lighter circuit, that one is rated 20 amps. My setup is not using the amp in the headunit, separate 4 channel instead. Not likely to blow the radio fuse that way.

Like the testing info on batt cables. Volt drop is the only (cheaply) accurate way to measure resistance less than one ohm. Not quite in agreement re: neg to engine, though. Each section of the cable needs to be checked independently for the volt drop. For the big cables, however, I would apply more of a load by having a helper crank the engine while testing. Obviously,be mindful of hot or moving parts. In this test, I like volt drop to be less than 200mV. Had a Land Rover, slow crank condition. Battery was grounded to the frame, Separate large strap frame to engine. Drop from battery to engine block was 3.2 volts. Fault in this case was frame to engine strap.

Maybe the remote antenna got damaged or knocked loose from the module...

I received word that the Focus ST rotor for '12-'14 models is a 12.6" that should work as well. Seems to be some good deals on that part on Rockauto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4417095&cc=3305734

So i happened to be near a 07 Jaguar XJ8 and noticed 13" rotors on the front. Looking up the replacement rotors at AutoZone, I found the Jag parts to be close to the same dimensions, at least for G1/2. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/aim/70019/image/4/ http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/aim/70019/5/image/4/ http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/aim/70019/3/image/4/ Part Number: 70019 Weight: 22.25 lbs Warranty: 2 YR Notes: Rotor only Recommend replacement in pairs. Bore Diameter (mm): 71 Discard Thickness (mm): 28.0 Drilled: No Initial Thickness (mm): 30.0 Orientation: Non-Directional Outside Diameter (mm): 326 Overall Depth (mm): 46 Package Quantity: 1 Primary Bolt Pattern: 5x108 / 5x4.25 Rotor Material: Iron Alloy Rotor Type: 1-Piece Slotted: No Vented: Yes Now to find calipers, pads and brackets that will make these work.The price is $64.99 at my local store.

Look at the regulator. It should have a Ford part number on it, the first two characters will give the first year it was used. A slight bump in rpm causes the voltage to jump? Like 200 rpm or so? That does sound like a control issue. I use Car Gauge Pro on my phone, it reads real-time data. The pid of interest in that app is Generator F Terminal.

Another thought is the alt you have installed is for a different year and is not liking the communication from the PCM.

Curious as to the specs, not that it's relevant to the post...

I have used a 2 ton floor jack and 4x4's to roll a car onto a trailer... It was sitting on blocks with no suspension at all.

I have...and I know how to use it.

It was $49 per annum in my county, but they board, in their infinite wisdom, recently raised it to $99. Can't speak on the prices of any plates other than standard.

Blown seal in the rear cylinder maybe?

The SSR might be decent with an LS9...

Wikipedia would have it that the FWD and RWD Essex have different bellhousings... RWD is listed as small-block Windsor and FWD is Vulcan V6.