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Kodachrome Wolf

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Everything posted by Kodachrome Wolf

  1. Since Thanksgiving is coming up and I'm headed out of town to see family, I took the car in for tires on Saturday since I'd run the Kumhos down below 4/32nd all the way around. While some may argue about the style, I absolutely wanted another whitewall tire again. However, I did not want to compromise on tire width, as I found the 225/70R15 (fleet size) preferable over the 215/70R15 (retail size). Luckily, Nexen offered a all-season touring tire that fit the bill perfectly. I also took the time to take the set of turbines Nick grabbed for me and did my best to clean and respray them in Ar
  2. Nice necrothread Also, what an awful reply. "Use the internet" -> We're already here on the internet "Contact an auto locksmith" -> Plugs a very city/region specific locksmith webpage; just a wee bit like spam there Welcome to the forum, hopefully your experience is more up hill from here.
  3. Buddy with the '99 came by so we could put on the door trim we yanked from the junkyard a while back from a '09-'11 car. Something with the '98-'08 door trim on Crown Victoria seems to like getting brittle with age, then falling off the door and leaving chunks behind on the double-sided tape. We stuck his original trim back on several times before there was no more backing material left to adhere to and the pieces started to physically spit apart. Looks a little funky since the later years didn't use a fender trim bit, just on the doors. It'll be back Saturday for an oil change and q
  4. Definitely check the air intake hose between the air cleaner box and throttle body for any cracks or loose seals. Also worth checking the crankcase breather where it goes into the intake, sometimes the boots on the ends get crumbly and start sucking air. Inspect vacuum lines while you're there as well.
  5. This is more so What Did You Do To Your Friend's Car than mine, but it was plenty involved. This is all on the gray '99 Crown Victoria I've spoken of that I helped my friend get several months back. There's been two things that had gone somewhat un-repaired after getting the car as roadworthy as possible. That was the cooling system and the heater. Originally the cooling system smelled awful, looked like pond water, and the heater core had been bypassed for sometime. I've flushed the cooling system with water on no less than four separate occasions. I've never gotten it to stay clean
  6. Worked the '97 a fair bit yesterday. It was supposed to only move a light trailer, but my plans to move a vehicle fell through with more adequate equipment so... ...I moved my '86 D-150 40 miles one way with it. Kinda arduous working up and down the hills between Augusta and Waynesboro. I maxed around 50 MPH with it in tow as the rear tires on the truck were questionable at best and I wasn't going to push my luck. I planned on dragging the combo down into the building, however after walking in and opening the garage door, I realized there'd be no room to turn my car
  7. I have a unique set of problems, and apparently saying no is one of them. Hello 1986 Dodge D150 Royal SE with 360 V8 Luckily I don't think I'll lose too much money (if any) if I try for a re-sell on this. Got it for $400 (within CVN Pricing) since the owners wanted $1000 and the scrap man offered $250. It's cheap because the transmission is in the bed. The skinny on this is the original owner gave the truck to his daughter and her husband about 11 years ago. The husband was driving it several years ago and so found it wasn't catching in drive and had issues engaging in low gear
  8. In July, Nick helped me swap the tailgate out on the '87. Huge PITA job there getting everything lined up and working. Much of the electrical equipment from the damaged gate had to be swapped into this one since it had sat for so long. Once I got it home, I tried to address a weepy transmission pan that had appeared after I got the car back from the shop a few months ago. Fitted a new pan, gasket, and filter... and it had the gall to puke it out the bell housing while I was re-filling it. Holds fluid running, pukes it out when shut off. Considering what I'm going to check o
  9. I'm going to kindly say please don't go yanking battery cables off the battery with the car running. If you did get a voltage spike or some large flux, the battery acts a bit like a capacitor in that instance so you don't toast your electrical equipment. Plus, yanking the cable's isn't a guaranteed way to verify alternator integrity. If you yank the cable on my '87 wagon, it shuts down, but the alternator is fine. I'd hate for anything on your car to get damaged outside of the scope of what you're working on. Now, all things considered, I have dealt with failing alternators that di
  10. Sounds like its slipping under acceleration if it starting to neutral out on you. Hows the fluid level and how does it look/smell?
  11. Buddy of mine got a '99 Crown Victoria a few weeks ago. Of course, it was in desperate need of attention. Showed some signs of sitting, signs of neglect, and signs of age. Great combo! It was not safe to make it to Washington County from where we got it in Richmond County (~90 mile trip), so instead it managed ~30 miles back to my place. Tires and shocks were ultimately trash (amongst so much else). I told my buddy to drive my car while I drove the '99. At about 25 MPH, it wanted to show me it had no desire to keep traction on a damp on-ramp. Wiper motor wa
  12. Check most of the rubber stuff. Currently going through a car that sat for at least a year or two. Many of the bushings are showing signs of age or are seriously deteriorated. Also, as funny as it sounds, check idler/tensioner pulleys. Those really don't like sitting either apparently. I wound up with a squeaky accessory drive after about an hour of run time on this particular vehicle, and after taking off the belt, the pulleys were very worn and sounded like maracas if you shook them. Nice to hear a SHO is coming back! Definitely an uncommon bird these days. Keep us posted a
  13. While ShelbyRacer may not like it, I opted to return back to traditional halogen headlights on my '97. I managed to put together a set of Ford OE headlight and turn signal lens assemblies. I added WeatherTech LampGaurds to them to try and hold off chips and yellowing for a while. I just need to get a replacement set of corner lens assemblies, as those are the only ones I haven't replaced with NOS OE stuff. The ones I have presently are from a '92-'94 LS Marquis, but I may go back to the proper '95-'97 style ones. I installed a relay harness for the low beams only, since I've re-insta
  14. Hopefully the grass is a little greener this year.
  15. He came by and picked it up this afternoon. He was visiting the Pull-A-Part here snatching a K-Code (3.55 locking) axle from under a '88 Country Squire, so everything worked out very well. For the time being, it's currently back where it started in Blythewood.
  16. Supposedly broke the sun gear in the '87 a few weeks ago. Backing into the driveway and got slightly hung up on the lip near the curbside. Gave it some gas and there was a clunk and a new neutral position was made where Reverse was. Oops. Sun gear failure results in no reverse, 2nd, or 4th (OD). Essentially it has become a lousy 2-speed automatic since you can keep it in the 'D' position and accelerate in 1st, then cruise in 3rd. Definitely not ideal by any means, and I did not road test it long like that, but just long enough to confirm I wasn't getting any action out of 2nd and 4th.
  17. I think he's asking if anyone has taken a Gen III car and swapped a SHO V8 (or maybe any V8, like one from a Continental, or some other platform entirely) in place of whichever V6 it had. To OP, it can be done, however you'd need an entire donor car in which to borrow the drivetrain and wiring harness from so that it could be swapped. The issue is finding a good donor and quality candidate. Also, from a completely personal stand point, justify the cost to swap all that into a normal car over purchasing a SHO in good shape. If you're trying to re-engine the car with some other engine, I mean
  18. Did a few small things on the '97 and '87. The '97 was having dimming lights at idle speed and incandescent bulbs had a noticeable pulse to them. I suspect the regulator was starting to get flaky since it would stop with higher RPMs, so I ditched the 3G for a 6G Motorcraft reman'd unit. Also installed a new belt and belt tensioner as the old one was starting to get weak. I did have to a little work at the intake where the alternator bracket mounts since the old bolt sheared as I was removing it (??? - I was rather surprised by that shit), so I drilled the sheared bolt, filled the h
  19. The 3.0L may not be a powerhouse, but it'll outlast the sun properly maintained. The only weak spot you've got is the AXOD, but with some preventive maintenance, you can keep it going. I'd recommend regular ATF fluid changes about every 20K miles with Mercon V and adding a external transmission cooler. The transmission definitely runs a bit hotter than is useful naturally, which breaks down the fluid. If you do the above, you'll get plenty of miles out of it. There's a member around here, Double Negative I believe, that had TecNickal's old '87 Taurus wagon that got five speed sw
  20. Usually when I think of a weird, loping idle, I'd start looking at the idle air control valve being dirty or sticking, along with a throttle position sensor being out of range. Another thought could be the EGR valve sticking open at idle. That'll also cause the engine to run poorly since it should really be only doing its thing at cruise.
  21. Could flip it for some cash... Or keep coming back to wagons.
  22. Yeah, or at least they seem to. I had a customer with an '89 Mustang complain it was acting all erratic when running, and the car was only intermittently starting. We tried to salvage his PCM since it's one of the mass air cars, but this is what I found when I got in there: The leg to that capacitor was totally rotten off. I recapped the board, but the damage was done and it had no effect on it. He had to run down one, and unfortunately those mass air Fox Mustang boards aren't getting cheaper. All my boards I've serviced varied. The '87 came with a remanned PCM in it. The
  23. Haven't taken any fun videos. I've certainly ran it up to the max of 3rd gear, and it'll get into the low triple digits with ease. Haven't tried letting it go into 4th since I'm already tempting fate doing silly stuff like that. It definitely has the torque to motivate that weight up to speed, as compared to the LoPo stick that had a hard time getting motivated past 80. I mean, it could get past 80, but speed added on slowly. I've got some boring shots of yanking stuff apart. Under hood looks generally the same as it has, save for the HO firing order appearing on the distributor and coola
  24. Got the HO swap done on the '87. Spirit of a Mark VII, just wearing the wrong clothes.
  25. Honestly, if you can, unplug the compressor if you're going to drive the car. I only say that simply because it takes one errant press of a button to kick on the compressor. That said, depending on how much refrigerant leaked out, the compressor may not even cycle on. My concern would be with the lack of oil. The green fluid is the PAG oil. R134a is not going to be a liquid at room temperature at normal atmospheric pressure. You can get away running just the heat though. I'm not sure how the '15s work, but I know in my cars, turning on the defroster will engage the A/C compressor, so that's wh
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