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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on March 28

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450 The Chosen One

About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/1995

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

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  1. Kodachrome Wolf

    Ford Taurus Alternator Not Working: Repair or Replace?

    Typically when the bearings are shot, it's just worth tossing a new/remanned unit in it's place. If you can find a rebuilder, that's always nice, but I've not ever considered trying to rebuild one since the availability and convenience of just swapping them just makes it simpler. However if you're feeling froggy and you have the bearing numbers, the case should be fairly straightforwards to separate. Now if the bearing are so shot and the cooling fins have been just banging about the case, there may be internal damage.
  2. Tossed a TPS on the '87. Closed throttle was at .97v, but it wasn't reporting above 3.21v at WOT. Replacement unit installed was set to .90v closed, and it reports 4.25v at WOT. Seems to be doing better now under hard throttle. Seemed to start going lean pretty bad under heavy throttle since it was under reporting actual throttle input. I was getting a interesting smell from the converters when passing or climbing long grades at speed.
  3. Kodachrome Wolf

    Transmission temperature PIDS

    When was the fluid last changed on your transmission? Do you have an aftermarket plate cooler installed? Frequent fluid changes with Mercon V and an external plate cooler seems to help extend the life of these transmissions.
  4. I can't say I've seen a car that just plain out stalls regardless of gear selection (Park, Drive, etc...) with just mashing down the brake pedal enough. Outside of an electrical issue or mechanical issue, I'm a bit clueless. Only electrical stuff I could consider for the brake system though would be the brake light on/off (BOO) switch under the dash and usually the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder. If you wanted to rule those out, you could disconnect them both. Just take note, you may want to place the car in neutral before disconnecting the BOO since the shift interlock should be tied to that. If you disconnect that first, you won't be able to shift out of park. If it still stalls after all that, there may be an underlying mechanical issue that we're not seeing. FWIW, not every trouble issue will set a fault code, so while diagnostic codes are helpful, we can't always be reliant on them.
  5. Interesting to see that it stalls only when you really press on the brake pedal, and not when you lightly just tap it enough to get the shift interlock to work so you can move the shifter. That eliminates my thoughts about the brake light on/off switch, if it was somehow causing trouble. Have you tried disconnecting the booster yet and seeing if that's had an effect on if it stays running or not?
  6. If you need to, upload the video to YouTube or another video hosting site.
  7. So I can't get that file to load on my stuff. I've not seen a *.vpj file for a video. If you're using a particular type of video editing software, I might recommend checking to see if it has an export feature to a normal video file, like *.avi, *.mp4, or something like that. As per fuses 37 and 38, I don't know what circuit those protect. Regarding the new booster, you may hear a little air escape, but it shouldn't be constant hissing.
  8. I’ll try and watch the video when I get home. I can’t get that video file to open on mobile.
  9. Hopefully you mean 800 RPM... That thing would be screaming if it could rev up that high in park! Getting into troubleshooting, easiest thing to do to eliminate the brake booster as being a problem spot would be to disconnect the vacuum line from it and plug the vacuum line for testing. If the car doesn't have any problem with brake application then, it's possible your replacement booster is bad. Usually leaky boosters suck air, so engine idle speed fluctuates when the pedal is depressed. Haven't seen one stall an engine, though, but there's always a first time. Now if it stalls with the booster disconnected, then there's something else going on. Could be electrical, or some other component.
  10. I'm going to ask a few questions, just to get a feel for the issue. When it stalls, is it only when you put your foot on the brake, regardless of gear? Or, does it only stall once it goes into drive while your foot is on the brake? Where do the RPMs stay at when in park? Too low of engine idle speed when shifted into drive could cause a stall. An IAC could be suspect if it's not picking up the engine speed to compensate for the added load of the transmission. Does the car immediately re-fire after stalling? Does this condition happen every time, or is it intermittent? I'd be curious if you could start it in neutral and then place it into drive without touching the brake and seeing if it'll go or stalls out.
  11. Decided to do some work on the wagon since I experienced a massive battery draw that killed it in a few days a sitting, something it hasn't done before. It only happened after I disturbed the relays, which had a tendency to self trigger if bumped or shaken, and of course it's the important ones for the EEC and Fuel Pump. After determining that, the next best step was to modernize, using a '90+ relay holder which uses conventional five pin cube relays versus the odd ball five pin, non-cube type ones that were originally fitted. It also gets a circuit safety feature too, a diode for the EEC power circuit. I also get to use a newer style vacuum box, versus the coffee can. I did make a mistake in attempting to use a '95+ vacuum box and holder assembly, when a '90-'94 one works better. Luckily I had the old style vacuum box for these cars, so I've just got to get the right holder, since the '95+ one sits up too high, but locks into place. Factory angry spaghetti: Updated angry spaghetti: Loomed and fitted: Now I don't have random self-energizing relays causing trouble for me. Plus, should I ever have a relay fail (all of the ones in the holder were factory Ford OE ones), it'll be much easier to get one since it's a common type, versus the more unique originals. Maybe the next job will be using an proper fuse box over by the starter solenoid. Ford used a bunch of fusible links off the starter solenoid, so it's a rat's nest on that fender. A fuse box from a '90-'94 Town Car would be suitable as the links would be replaced with proper fuses and the horn and air shock relays could be re-fitted into that box.
  12. So the valve covers on the '97 have been seeping for a while. Nothing terrible, not enough to use oil between changes, but enough to see visible build up below. I guess it's finally gotten to the point it's getting on the exhaust manifolds, because I could sure smell that nonsense at a stoplight today. It's just doing that job will hardcore suck. Driver's side requires brake booster removal. Done that on the '87, just need to be creative with a u-joint. Passenger's side per the Ford official stuff is to remove the fender liner and remove all the A/C stuff. Not doing that. The other method is to remove the driver's side engine mount to allow the engine to roll enough to remove the valve cover. The oil pan is also going to need attention soon too. Again, not another job I'm particularly feeling like doing, but it needs to be done. The real question will be: When will I actually get around to doing? I have been bad about trying to motivate myself to get stuff like that done lately.
  13. Warped my junkyard JBL system to 2007. Now I've got AM/FM, Tape, 6-Disc CD, and Aux. This setup just breaks the signal from the CD changer and plays whatever is on the external device when the CD player is selected. I've got the jack mounted down in the passenger foot well panel. I've pulled the panel that included the optional 12V socket with the intent to change the socket out to USB and drill a hole beside it for the jack, that way there will be more convenient charging options for mobile devices versus using the barrel jacks. Some might wonder why bother trying to update my mis-mash of late '90s audio stuff, and that's because 1.) The JBL System is still nice, and 2.) I really like the factory style radio. I have no real desire for any funky infotainment, so I'll keep living in the stone age. I only wanted to add the aux jack after having had it in the station wagon.
  14. Kodachrome Wolf

    Gen 3 Taurus Radio trim plate for EATC - Oakland, CA

    Are you sending it Priority Mail or whatever the Parcel Select is supposed to be these days? Priority will beat the crap out of you if it's a weird size and doesn't go in their box. Parcel Select (I don't think that's the right term, but it's something like that) is supposed to be slower but more reasonable on shipping costs. I've done the Parcel Select for weird, bulky items and I've never paid $30 in shipping. I don't think I even spent $30 shipping a package international. If you can, see what the USPS desk has to say about it. I swear I ran into a similar issue and they offered me the cheaper option. They just told me it would be slower since it's all ground shipping.
  15. Kodachrome Wolf

    Gen 3 Taurus Radio trim plate for EATC - Oakland, CA

    I'll keep an eye out around the junkyards, just in case I see one.
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