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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on March 23

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About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/1995

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Decided to do some work on the wagon since I experienced a massive battery draw that killed it in a few days a sitting, something it hasn't done before. It only happened after I disturbed the relays, which had a tendency to self trigger if bumped or shaken, and of course it's the important ones for the EEC and Fuel Pump. After determining that, the next best step was to modernize, using a '90+ relay holder which uses conventional five pin cube relays versus the odd ball five pin, non-cube type ones that were originally fitted. It also gets a circuit safety feature too, a diode for the EEC power circuit. I also get to use a newer style vacuum box, versus the coffee can. I did make a mistake in attempting to use a '95+ vacuum box and holder assembly, when a '90-'94 one works better. Luckily I had the old style vacuum box for these cars, so I've just got to get the right holder, since the '95+ one sits up too high, but locks into place. Factory angry spaghetti: Updated angry spaghetti: Loomed and fitted: Now I don't have random self-energizing relays causing trouble for me. Plus, should I ever have a relay fail (all of the ones in the holder were factory Ford OE ones), it'll be much easier to get one since it's a common type, versus the more unique originals. Maybe the next job will be using an proper fuse box over by the starter solenoid. Ford used a bunch of fusible links off the starter solenoid, so it's a rat's nest on that fender. A fuse box from a '90-'94 Town Car would be suitable as the links would be replaced with proper fuses and the horn and air shock relays could be re-fitted into that box.
  2. So the valve covers on the '97 have been seeping for a while. Nothing terrible, not enough to use oil between changes, but enough to see visible build up below. I guess it's finally gotten to the point it's getting on the exhaust manifolds, because I could sure smell that nonsense at a stoplight today. It's just doing that job will hardcore suck. Driver's side requires brake booster removal. Done that on the '87, just need to be creative with a u-joint. Passenger's side per the Ford official stuff is to remove the fender liner and remove all the A/C stuff. Not doing that. The other method is to remove the driver's side engine mount to allow the engine to roll enough to remove the valve cover. The oil pan is also going to need attention soon too. Again, not another job I'm particularly feeling like doing, but it needs to be done. The real question will be: When will I actually get around to doing? I have been bad about trying to motivate myself to get stuff like that done lately.
  3. Warped my junkyard JBL system to 2007. Now I've got AM/FM, Tape, 6-Disc CD, and Aux. This setup just breaks the signal from the CD changer and plays whatever is on the external device when the CD player is selected. I've got the jack mounted down in the passenger foot well panel. I've pulled the panel that included the optional 12V socket with the intent to change the socket out to USB and drill a hole beside it for the jack, that way there will be more convenient charging options for mobile devices versus using the barrel jacks. Some might wonder why bother trying to update my mis-mash of late '90s audio stuff, and that's because 1.) The JBL System is still nice, and 2.) I really like the factory style radio. I have no real desire for any funky infotainment, so I'll keep living in the stone age. I only wanted to add the aux jack after having had it in the station wagon.
  4. Kodachrome Wolf

    Gen 3 Taurus Radio trim plate for EATC - Oakland, CA

    Are you sending it Priority Mail or whatever the Parcel Select is supposed to be these days? Priority will beat the crap out of you if it's a weird size and doesn't go in their box. Parcel Select (I don't think that's the right term, but it's something like that) is supposed to be slower but more reasonable on shipping costs. I've done the Parcel Select for weird, bulky items and I've never paid $30 in shipping. I don't think I even spent $30 shipping a package international. If you can, see what the USPS desk has to say about it. I swear I ran into a similar issue and they offered me the cheaper option. They just told me it would be slower since it's all ground shipping.
  5. Kodachrome Wolf

    Gen 3 Taurus Radio trim plate for EATC - Oakland, CA

    I'll keep an eye out around the junkyards, just in case I see one.
  6. Take the wiper arms off and remove the wiper cowl. If it’s full of leaves and crud, it’s likely filling up the tray and running down the fresh air ducts. Usually any water that gets in the tray should drain down under the car on the passenger side near where the evaporative core drains out to.
  7. Did spark plug job on my mother's MKZ. 85K miles and the platinum plugs were toast. Gap was consistently between .070" to .080" on the plugs I pulled. Factory spec is .052". Was running pretty decent on the old plugs, but gas mileage was dropping off, something like 16 city. Can't say I'm quite crazy about having to pull the upper plenum off to do plugs, but this car isn't the worst. Anyway, decided to try a totally different spark plug: NGK Ruthenium HX series plugs. Good quality construction as I expect with NGK, and it should be interesting to see how well they work long term. Can't find much information out there on them as far as real world use goes, but their fairly new (within the last few years) and I doubt there's been a ton of adopters.
  8. Not my vehicle, but someone else’s car: Had a customer come in with an ‘08 Expedition 5.4 with a CEL and stated it was chuffing while running. I suspected spark plug ejection, but this one was pretty gnarly. Completely jacked the threads in the head, ground strap was gone along with the internals, and the upper porcelain was all broke up. Surprisingly it didn’t break the coil, but that would be the least thing to be concerned about. The hole in the head was badly wallered out a replacement plug wouldn’t catch anything. Thankfully they caught a ride home versus attempting to make it another 25 minutes up the road with a 10 mile jaunt down the interstate.
  9. Kodachrome Wolf

    Misfire

    Misfire on cylinder 3, shame it has to be a cylinder on the back of the darn engine. I know you said you recently replaced all the ignition components. What brand parts did you use? I've seen some aftermarket stuff not be properly up to snuff compared to the original components. A good test to determine if your coil pack isn't defective out of the box is to take a spray bottle of water and lightly spritz the coil pack with the engine running. A healthy one shouldn't result in any change in how it runs. A bad one should aggravate the issue more. I'd also take the time to check that you are getting good spark on the number three wire. Assuming once you check over the ignition components, it might be worth checking for adequate fuel delivery. An injector not functioning properly could be an issue. Worst case is a mechanical problem, but I'd start with simpler stuff first.
  10. Kodachrome Wolf

    Misfire

    Typically the Vulcans got the bland branding with the 3.0 V6 on the valve cover, so it’s safe to say you have the OHV engine. Not a bad engine at all, as they’ll run forever, they’re just not terribly powerful. Weakest link really would be the transmission. Most folks around here will recommend adding a transmission cooler and change your fluid about every 30K miles for best lifespan. When the Check Engine light comes on, what codes are you reading? Is it explicitly misfire codes or is there other ones present?
  11. Kodachrome Wolf

    Misfire

    Is this the OHV or OHC engine? The OHV (Vulcan) differs considerably from the OHC (Duratec) engine. Typically Duratec cars have fender badges that say 24V and the engine will have Duratec branding on the cover.
  12. Unless you're going to the junkyard and getting a used compressor, you're not likely going to find a decent one for under $90. Also, beware ultra-cheap parts. Often, you get exactly what you pay for.
  13. 4.6 Panther upper O2 sensors are supposed to be a real PITA, but I got the job done in roughly 45 minutes. I figure I'm cheating because I'm not in the rust belt. Yanked the original sensors out at 205K. I'm sure they've gone lazy, but they've not set the CEL. New sensors are NTK brand. While they don't look exactly like the Ford part, the Ford sensors were branded with the NTK logo on top of the normal part number. A crows foot type O2 sensor socket made the job super simple. The passenger side is the "worst", as it aims directly at the frame rail, so there's less working room.
  14. So the wagon engine project is finished. The reassembly was done last week, but a driveability issue was making it run like crap. Symptoms were: Idling too high (could unplug IAC, turn on the A/C, and put into Drive and not stall), Rich smell at idle, zero power at WOT, backfiring, misfiring, and bucking. Everything you want after you an engine back together and start it. Anyway, finally had some time to get out and poke at it. Grabbed my handy paper clip and test light, and ran a KOEO test and got Code 23 for TPS out of range or set too high. Probed the wires to the TPS and got 1.48v. That's way too high. Ford likes it under 1.12v, .84-.99v is preferred, and apparently all the way down to .54v is acceptable. The TPS is slotted for some adjustment, but not that much, but I don't have a faulty TPS. It was checked out good on the old throttle body, so what gives? Well, these do have a throttle plate stop screw that really shouldn't be messed with, and the best Brian and I could come up with was it got knocked out place or fiddled with after it came off his Mustang. I turned out the stop screw while measuring voltage as it steadily dropped and tuned it to the precision point all the Mustang fanboys like at the just-oh-so-perfect point of .997v. I also swapped all the plugs and wires. When putting the wires back on, it was clear many had lost their distinctive "click" you want when installing them. Figured it wouldn't hurt to do the plugs just in case despite being low mileage (and they looked the part). The old Autolites definitely had crud blown onto them during initial firing which would have been problematic if left alone, so new NGKs were installed. Fired up easy, no vibration, and the engine idled down easy into a buttery smooth low idle. Road test was good. Throttle response is nicer with the larger bore. Has better "power" than even before the incident, and seems to breath easier with slightly less restrictive intake, heads and dual exhaust. It runs almost as smooth as the 4.6 in the '97, which is impressive for an old pushrod engine like this. A big thanks to Brian for his assistance in supplying this project the necessary repair parts! All that's left is to adjust the TV block slightly (O/D comes on at 50 MPH vs 55 MPH, shifts aren't as firm as I like), re-install the 5.0 plate, and the two front accessory bracket braces.
  15. Atmospheric compression attained: Reasons why it didn't run right: Managed to suck the valve past the seat, but nothing was amiss on the top end if you popped the valve cover and cranked over the engine. All that was known was that the compression on cylinder 1 was non-existent. The replacement cylinder heads are already on it. Just the supporting stuff remains, but it'll go quicker. Maybe it'll be back together tomorrow. Or Tuesday. Or whenever.
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