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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on October 22 2018

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About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/1995

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

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    Evans, GA
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  1. Kodachrome Wolf

    Gen 3 Taurus Radio trim plate for EATC - Oakland, CA

    I'll keep an eye out around the junkyards, just in case I see one.
  2. Take the wiper arms off and remove the wiper cowl. If it’s full of leaves and crud, it’s likely filling up the tray and running down the fresh air ducts. Usually any water that gets in the tray should drain down under the car on the passenger side near where the evaporative core drains out to.
  3. Did spark plug job on my mother's MKZ. 85K miles and the platinum plugs were toast. Gap was consistently between .070" to .080" on the plugs I pulled. Factory spec is .052". Was running pretty decent on the old plugs, but gas mileage was dropping off, something like 16 city. Can't say I'm quite crazy about having to pull the upper plenum off to do plugs, but this car isn't the worst. Anyway, decided to try a totally different spark plug: NGK Ruthenium HX series plugs. Good quality construction as I expect with NGK, and it should be interesting to see how well they work long term. Can't find much information out there on them as far as real world use goes, but their fairly new (within the last few years) and I doubt there's been a ton of adopters.
  4. Not my vehicle, but someone else’s car: Had a customer come in with an ‘08 Expedition 5.4 with a CEL and stated it was chuffing while running. I suspected spark plug ejection, but this one was pretty gnarly. Completely jacked the threads in the head, ground strap was gone along with the internals, and the upper porcelain was all broke up. Surprisingly it didn’t break the coil, but that would be the least thing to be concerned about. The hole in the head was badly wallered out a replacement plug wouldn’t catch anything. Thankfully they caught a ride home versus attempting to make it another 25 minutes up the road with a 10 mile jaunt down the interstate.
  5. Kodachrome Wolf


    Misfire on cylinder 3, shame it has to be a cylinder on the back of the darn engine. I know you said you recently replaced all the ignition components. What brand parts did you use? I've seen some aftermarket stuff not be properly up to snuff compared to the original components. A good test to determine if your coil pack isn't defective out of the box is to take a spray bottle of water and lightly spritz the coil pack with the engine running. A healthy one shouldn't result in any change in how it runs. A bad one should aggravate the issue more. I'd also take the time to check that you are getting good spark on the number three wire. Assuming once you check over the ignition components, it might be worth checking for adequate fuel delivery. An injector not functioning properly could be an issue. Worst case is a mechanical problem, but I'd start with simpler stuff first.
  6. Kodachrome Wolf


    Typically the Vulcans got the bland branding with the 3.0 V6 on the valve cover, so it’s safe to say you have the OHV engine. Not a bad engine at all, as they’ll run forever, they’re just not terribly powerful. Weakest link really would be the transmission. Most folks around here will recommend adding a transmission cooler and change your fluid about every 30K miles for best lifespan. When the Check Engine light comes on, what codes are you reading? Is it explicitly misfire codes or is there other ones present?
  7. Kodachrome Wolf


    Is this the OHV or OHC engine? The OHV (Vulcan) differs considerably from the OHC (Duratec) engine. Typically Duratec cars have fender badges that say 24V and the engine will have Duratec branding on the cover.
  8. Unless you're going to the junkyard and getting a used compressor, you're not likely going to find a decent one for under $90. Also, beware ultra-cheap parts. Often, you get exactly what you pay for.
  9. 4.6 Panther upper O2 sensors are supposed to be a real PITA, but I got the job done in roughly 45 minutes. I figure I'm cheating because I'm not in the rust belt. Yanked the original sensors out at 205K. I'm sure they've gone lazy, but they've not set the CEL. New sensors are NTK brand. While they don't look exactly like the Ford part, the Ford sensors were branded with the NTK logo on top of the normal part number. A crows foot type O2 sensor socket made the job super simple. The passenger side is the "worst", as it aims directly at the frame rail, so there's less working room.
  10. So the wagon engine project is finished. The reassembly was done last week, but a driveability issue was making it run like crap. Symptoms were: Idling too high (could unplug IAC, turn on the A/C, and put into Drive and not stall), Rich smell at idle, zero power at WOT, backfiring, misfiring, and bucking. Everything you want after you an engine back together and start it. Anyway, finally had some time to get out and poke at it. Grabbed my handy paper clip and test light, and ran a KOEO test and got Code 23 for TPS out of range or set too high. Probed the wires to the TPS and got 1.48v. That's way too high. Ford likes it under 1.12v, .84-.99v is preferred, and apparently all the way down to .54v is acceptable. The TPS is slotted for some adjustment, but not that much, but I don't have a faulty TPS. It was checked out good on the old throttle body, so what gives? Well, these do have a throttle plate stop screw that really shouldn't be messed with, and the best Brian and I could come up with was it got knocked out place or fiddled with after it came off his Mustang. I turned out the stop screw while measuring voltage as it steadily dropped and tuned it to the precision point all the Mustang fanboys like at the just-oh-so-perfect point of .997v. I also swapped all the plugs and wires. When putting the wires back on, it was clear many had lost their distinctive "click" you want when installing them. Figured it wouldn't hurt to do the plugs just in case despite being low mileage (and they looked the part). The old Autolites definitely had crud blown onto them during initial firing which would have been problematic if left alone, so new NGKs were installed. Fired up easy, no vibration, and the engine idled down easy into a buttery smooth low idle. Road test was good. Throttle response is nicer with the larger bore. Has better "power" than even before the incident, and seems to breath easier with slightly less restrictive intake, heads and dual exhaust. It runs almost as smooth as the 4.6 in the '97, which is impressive for an old pushrod engine like this. A big thanks to Brian for his assistance in supplying this project the necessary repair parts! All that's left is to adjust the TV block slightly (O/D comes on at 50 MPH vs 55 MPH, shifts aren't as firm as I like), re-install the 5.0 plate, and the two front accessory bracket braces.
  11. Atmospheric compression attained: Reasons why it didn't run right: Managed to suck the valve past the seat, but nothing was amiss on the top end if you popped the valve cover and cranked over the engine. All that was known was that the compression on cylinder 1 was non-existent. The replacement cylinder heads are already on it. Just the supporting stuff remains, but it'll go quicker. Maybe it'll be back together tomorrow. Or Tuesday. Or whenever.
  12. Working to unbreak what I broke over a year ago. Just some mild disassembly: Got more to do tomorrow.
  13. Kodachrome Wolf

    pushbar and spot lights

    You might be able to use one from a old police car, but you’d have to fabricate your own brackets. That’ll be the biggest part to overcome.
  14. Removing the throttle body and EGR spacer from an SEFI 302 upper intake is a massive PITA. One stud came cleanly out using two nuts on a stud and un-threading it from the runner portion. One remained generally stuck and the bottom two broke. It took a lot of prying and beating with a mallet to get it to come all the way off. I got the busted studs undone with a pair of vice grips. Going forwards when I mount up the Panther EGR spacer, I'm using bolts instead of the stud approach. I'm also lightly coating those bolts in anti-seize to put off corrosion for a while. The coolant line that also goes through the spacer also is not being used. Galvanic corrosion is an issue from the start since the original setup is aluminum with steel studs. Mix that in with the common leakage at the coolant passage which either puts coolant down the intake or onto the studs, it makes for a nasty corrosion fest.
  15. Kodachrome Wolf

    pushbar and spot lights

    What do you need a pushbar and spot light combo for? AFAIK, the last police package year for Taurus was 1995. Gen IV had no such option, so the market doesn't exist outside of getting creative. Being on a forum where used cop cars are frequent, most folks go the route of de-copping a car, not the opposite way around. Some find all that stuff garners unwanted attention. Just a heads up, if you do go after that stuff, most of it requires cutting or drilling. Spotlights require holes and that invites water leakage opportunities.