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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on August 6

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454 The Chosen One

About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/1995

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Swapped the fuel pump out in the '97. Old one was starting to slowly go, resulting in extended cranking periods to get it to start or the occasional stumble start until it finally got up enough pressure. Starts easily now.
  2. In the select amount of cars I've seen shutter grilles on, I did have one actually throw a code because the motor seized and the ECU threw an inop code for it, but I believe that was on a Chrysler Corp car. No idea if the Fords will throw a code. You could probably try unplugging it and seeing if it throws anything. If it does, plug it back in and clear the code. Any reason you're needing a push bar? Only asking since I come from forums where de-copping cars is considerably more common.
  3. Had an intermittent ABS light on the '97 a few years back. My issue was a dirty wheel speed sensor. Cleaned it off with some brake clean and haven't had that issue in several years. It may have set a code that possibly can be read on the scan tools some auto part store use. Worth a shot to see if anything comes up.
  4. The '97 finally received its 3.55 gears. Rear end got a full overhaul with new seals, axle shafts, and bearings. The parking brake shoes were replaced while the shafts were out. Certainly more lively with the gears. I also installed my P71 ECU and swapped in the correct speedometer gear for the VSS. The car is 95% to where I'd like it. Eventually I'll get that air ride swap done, but that's not a pressing issue right now.
  5. Big oof. Certainly an interesting car the handful of times I got to see it/ride in it. Taking your audio stuff for the Fusion?
  6. Some day I'd like to get a Gen I/II Taurus or Sable, but that'll down the road. Two cars are plenty and they can do most any task I ask of them. I'm still here because of the community; I've met some wonderful people from here. I'm active with Panther communities, but even though those cars are aged, we still have plenty of people picking up later model ones trying to do small mods or inversely people picking up the oldest ones trying to make a cheap classic cruiser. Obviously the Taurus falls into a more-so forgettable realm to non-car people/enthusiasts, and I'm sure most people picking them up are on competitor forums. Maybe we could change towards "Regular Cars Everyone Forgot About from 1979-2007". Attract all the odd ball and regular cars that most people wouldn't give a second look at that come from the end of the Malaise Era that eventually became catalysts into "modern" styling.
  7. Seems to be working perfectly now, thanks!
  8. This is more of a forum operational issue, but I noticed I can’t view new member posts. Gives me a permissions error.
  9. If the transmission filter was clogged, I'm thinking you'd see other issues besides the light. As far as your code reader, I know some readers will spit out transmission codes, but that's not 100% every time. A higher end scanner might be able to see if there's any issues, but your mileage may vary. With regards to these transmissions, everything I've heard points to them naturally running warmer than most transmissions, leading to the fluid eventually breaking down, and of course taking out the transmission. Since usually people aren't changing their ATF all that often, there's a good reason it's easy to find Taurii with dead transmissions with maybe 120-150K. A good rule of thumb is to do regular fluid changes on the transmission, maybe about every 15-20K. Adding a transmission cooler certainly will help extend the life of the transmission. Any licensed Mercon V fluid will work fine.
  10. Typically when the bearings are shot, it's just worth tossing a new/remanned unit in it's place. If you can find a rebuilder, that's always nice, but I've not ever considered trying to rebuild one since the availability and convenience of just swapping them just makes it simpler. However if you're feeling froggy and you have the bearing numbers, the case should be fairly straightforwards to separate. Now if the bearing are so shot and the cooling fins have been just banging about the case, there may be internal damage.
  11. Tossed a TPS on the '87. Closed throttle was at .97v, but it wasn't reporting above 3.21v at WOT. Replacement unit installed was set to .90v closed, and it reports 4.25v at WOT. Seems to be doing better now under hard throttle. Seemed to start going lean pretty bad under heavy throttle since it was under reporting actual throttle input. I was getting a interesting smell from the converters when passing or climbing long grades at speed.
  12. When was the fluid last changed on your transmission? Do you have an aftermarket plate cooler installed? Frequent fluid changes with Mercon V and an external plate cooler seems to help extend the life of these transmissions.
  13. I can't say I've seen a car that just plain out stalls regardless of gear selection (Park, Drive, etc...) with just mashing down the brake pedal enough. Outside of an electrical issue or mechanical issue, I'm a bit clueless. Only electrical stuff I could consider for the brake system though would be the brake light on/off (BOO) switch under the dash and usually the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder. If you wanted to rule those out, you could disconnect them both. Just take note, you may want to place the car in neutral before disconnecting the BOO since the shift interlock should be tied to that. If you disconnect that first, you won't be able to shift out of park. If it still stalls after all that, there may be an underlying mechanical issue that we're not seeing. FWIW, not every trouble issue will set a fault code, so while diagnostic codes are helpful, we can't always be reliant on them.
  14. Interesting to see that it stalls only when you really press on the brake pedal, and not when you lightly just tap it enough to get the shift interlock to work so you can move the shifter. That eliminates my thoughts about the brake light on/off switch, if it was somehow causing trouble. Have you tried disconnecting the booster yet and seeing if that's had an effect on if it stays running or not?
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