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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on April 3

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About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Resident Panther Owner
  • Birthday 02/16/1995

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

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  1. Yeah, or at least they seem to. I had a customer with an '89 Mustang complain it was acting all erratic when running, and the car was only intermittently starting. We tried to salvage his PCM since it's one of the mass air cars, but this is what I found when I got in there: The leg to that capacitor was totally rotten off. I recapped the board, but the damage was done and it had no effect on it. He had to run down one, and unfortunately those mass air Fox Mustang boards aren't getting cheaper. All my boards I've serviced varied. The '87 came with a remanned PCM in it. The capacitors on it were looking questionable and were starting to bulge out around the bottoms where the legs are. I got a PCM from an '87.5 LTD CV that was factory to it and it looked phenomenal inside. My '97 boards looked really good too, but they got recapped for longevity. The '87 Mark VII PCM looked liked it was starting to bulge, so it got recapped. Personally I'd recommend doing the work as preventive maintenance and peace of mind. Also a video featuring a slow 0-60, while trying to AOD shuffle with one hand and film/steer with the other, but I didn't lock it back in 2nd after the 1-2 shift, so it went into 3rd at 60. I've got to get my hands on a AOD HO shift governor otherwise it will shift at 4K. Great for a LoPo where it dies above 4K, but the HO doesn't fall out until 5K. Standing starts aren't the HO's forte given where the real torque comes on. It comes alive above 1800 RPM, so if stood on, the needle keeps moving steadily like it does from about 35. Reminds me very much of the '97 before it got 3.55s. Digs suck, but rolling it moved out with ease and had no problem adding speed.
  2. Haven't taken any fun videos. I've certainly ran it up to the max of 3rd gear, and it'll get into the low triple digits with ease. Haven't tried letting it go into 4th since I'm already tempting fate doing silly stuff like that. It definitely has the torque to motivate that weight up to speed, as compared to the LoPo stick that had a hard time getting motivated past 80. I mean, it could get past 80, but speed added on slowly. I've got some boring shots of yanking stuff apart. Under hood looks generally the same as it has, save for the HO firing order appearing on the distributor and coolant isn't dribbling down the timing cover anymore. Nothing says trouble like having much of the engine components no longer inside or attached to the engine: Checking to make sure the Mark VII PCM isn't dead: I did install it into the correct place through the firewall after verifying it wasn't junk. FWIW, I've started replacing capacitors on older Ford EEC IV and EEC V boards. EEC V ones seem to hold up better than the EEC IV ones, but capacitors aren't forever and a car interior isn't the most forgiving place depending on the climate. A lot of the 80s ones are starting to look suspect, so taking preventative measures are the best thing to do at this point.
  3. Got the HO swap done on the '87. Spirit of a Mark VII, just wearing the wrong clothes.
  4. Honestly, if you can, unplug the compressor if you're going to drive the car. I only say that simply because it takes one errant press of a button to kick on the compressor. That said, depending on how much refrigerant leaked out, the compressor may not even cycle on. My concern would be with the lack of oil. The green fluid is the PAG oil. R134a is not going to be a liquid at room temperature at normal atmospheric pressure. You can get away running just the heat though. I'm not sure how the '15s work, but I know in my cars, turning on the defroster will engage the A/C compressor, so that's why I'd recommend just unplugging it. I know there's still a few good cold days remaining where defrost is a good idea. Personally, I'd have the system evacuated, oil added, and properly recharged. It really doesn't take much to get air in the system, even if you're just purging refrigerant on accident. Unless you're doing all your A/C work yourself, if a shop starts having to actually replace hard parts, it gets expensive quick. Most recharging services aren't that expensive though.
  5. Welcome to PTSOC, Previous Taurus and Sable Owners' Club. We still have memories of good times, but the cars aren't there anymore.
  6. Dorman makes a nylon repair hose with those ends on them. Most parts stores carry it in the Help! section. The premise is you can either join the nylon hose together using the provided hose barb in the package and heating the nylon on the repair and vehicle with hot water until it sets (obviously difficult while under the car, but I'm not sure a open flame would be a good idea around fuel), or using a compression type fitting to join the lines together.
  7. Swapped the fuel pump out in the '97. Old one was starting to slowly go, resulting in extended cranking periods to get it to start or the occasional stumble start until it finally got up enough pressure. Starts easily now.
  8. In the select amount of cars I've seen shutter grilles on, I did have one actually throw a code because the motor seized and the ECU threw an inop code for it, but I believe that was on a Chrysler Corp car. No idea if the Fords will throw a code. You could probably try unplugging it and seeing if it throws anything. If it does, plug it back in and clear the code. Any reason you're needing a push bar? Only asking since I come from forums where de-copping cars is considerably more common.
  9. Had an intermittent ABS light on the '97 a few years back. My issue was a dirty wheel speed sensor. Cleaned it off with some brake clean and haven't had that issue in several years. It may have set a code that possibly can be read on the scan tools some auto part store use. Worth a shot to see if anything comes up.
  10. The '97 finally received its 3.55 gears. Rear end got a full overhaul with new seals, axle shafts, and bearings. The parking brake shoes were replaced while the shafts were out. Certainly more lively with the gears. I also installed my P71 ECU and swapped in the correct speedometer gear for the VSS. The car is 95% to where I'd like it. Eventually I'll get that air ride swap done, but that's not a pressing issue right now.
  11. Big oof. Certainly an interesting car the handful of times I got to see it/ride in it. Taking your audio stuff for the Fusion?
  12. If the transmission filter was clogged, I'm thinking you'd see other issues besides the light. As far as your code reader, I know some readers will spit out transmission codes, but that's not 100% every time. A higher end scanner might be able to see if there's any issues, but your mileage may vary. With regards to these transmissions, everything I've heard points to them naturally running warmer than most transmissions, leading to the fluid eventually breaking down, and of course taking out the transmission. Since usually people aren't changing their ATF all that often, there's a good reason it's easy to find Taurii with dead transmissions with maybe 120-150K. A good rule of thumb is to do regular fluid changes on the transmission, maybe about every 15-20K. Adding a transmission cooler certainly will help extend the life of the transmission. Any licensed Mercon V fluid will work fine.
  13. Typically when the bearings are shot, it's just worth tossing a new/remanned unit in it's place. If you can find a rebuilder, that's always nice, but I've not ever considered trying to rebuild one since the availability and convenience of just swapping them just makes it simpler. However if you're feeling froggy and you have the bearing numbers, the case should be fairly straightforwards to separate. Now if the bearing are so shot and the cooling fins have been just banging about the case, there may be internal damage.
  14. Tossed a TPS on the '87. Closed throttle was at .97v, but it wasn't reporting above 3.21v at WOT. Replacement unit installed was set to .90v closed, and it reports 4.25v at WOT. Seems to be doing better now under hard throttle. Seemed to start going lean pretty bad under heavy throttle since it was under reporting actual throttle input. I was getting a interesting smell from the converters when passing or climbing long grades at speed.
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