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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on September 7

Kodachrome Wolf had the most liked content!

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397 The Chosen One

About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/95

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

Recent Profile Visitors

3468 profile views
  1. Damn. At least there's always next time.
  2. Sold!
  3. I've now given the wagon the ability to show me how quickly it'll drink gas: Handy-dandy Ford Tripminder. Gives you a clock with the time, day of the week, and month. You can do elapsed time for a trip. You can get Insta-MPG or average MPG. You can get your average speed or a digital trip odometer. Final function is a fuel consumed function. It essentially offers a lot features seen in later Ford digidashes, and even now in new cars. Obviously it's super '80s, but completely functional, and it only uses two extra wires over the traditional digital clock. One wire is for fuel flow input, the other is the vehicle speed input. In reality, the wagon isn't that terrible on gas, I just took that picture climbing a steep hill. Cruising around at 40 MPH, it was holding a steady 17 MPG on the read out. This is where it was at after driving in slow traffic in a hilly residential area: Should be useful in determining where the sweet spots are while cruising down the highway. I also installed hood weatherstripping that goes at the wiper cowl. I didn't realize there was supposed to be weatherstripping there until I was looking at the '89 LTD CV I've been taking parts off of. Lots of little pieces from that LTD are surviving on in the wagon.
  4. Wagon is doing better. All my issues were related to a bad pickup in the distributor. The pickup wasn't dead enough to shut the car down, but dead enough the output was flaky and the computer wasn't able to adjust the timing properly. It would run okay-ish without the SPOUT connector plugged in. I had to swap out two distributors. The first new one I got went bad moments after starting. The replacement had no problems. It got a lot of Motorcraft stuff stuck on it, too. Swapped Autolite plugs for Motorcraft and put a Motorcraft TFI module on. I'm not a fan of the mating surface upon which the TFI sits (rather rough and pitted, not smooth), so a remote mount setup will be a "sooner-than-later" deal. I'd rather not fry a good TFI, especially on the road. That type of surface is not going to promote great heat transfer. I got the oil changed a few days ago. I figured out that it'll always read a half-quart low after an oil change. It was the same way the first time I changed the oil and I thought it used a good bit. I figure it might have something to do with the large FL-1A filter. Happy the oil level stays consistent in this 302. I'm sticking with Motorcraft 10W-30, but I may try a FL400S filter over the FL-1A on the next change. A little less volume to fill and should make that first start after the oil change gentler on the engine. I've got to re-check the timing. I left the timing a bit retarded and I need to advance it a few degrees. I expected I'd be off a touch after having three distributors in and out of it. The sedan needs to go in for warranty A/C work. As much as I'd rather not have those clowns dicking around the engine bay again, I've got to get the A/C functional again. I manage without it, but it's an inconvenience for passengers and long distance trips. The compressor is short cycling, so either it's low on refrigerant, or there's a clog creating high pressure.
  5. The '87 has got me right here: The other day I really was able drive it. That pesky rough idle BS came back. Today I tried blocking off the EGR using a penny, just to confirm that wasn't the root cause. Car still ran stupid. So of course I'm running through ideas with the folks on GMN. Someone mentioned to me to check to see what the alternator is putting out when it starts running poorly. An interesting tie in to that theory is I swapped out the dash lights for LEDs. The grounds on that car aren't super, so if you have the turn signal on, the dash will brighten and dim a little with each blink. When I was driving it back to storage, and I halted at a light, the dash was flickering hard when it started chugging and loping, and I couldn't tell if the headlights were flickering too. The rough idle also doesn't come on hard right away, it actually gets worse the longer you remain stopped. Now I'm really curious if my junkyard 3G may be junk. I'll break out the multimeter when I have enough time to run over there and look at it, weather permitting. Since it's the worst in drive, I'll set the parking brake, chock the front wheels, and try to depress the brake by shoving a handle or something between the seat and the pedal, so I can be outside of the car measuring output. I could see a low voltage condition be high enough to not trigger the AMP light, but be low enough to throw off the electronics. Frustrating thing.
  6. Managed to haul the tailgate out of the wagon by myself. I didn't want to leave the seat folded down much longer since the seat belts would likely start leaving indentations in the seating surface. I know the rear back cushion isn't perfect, yet I don't want it to get abnormal wear. I really need to wash it since it hasn't been done since June and spending a month under a lean-to, it's gotten rather dusty. I also installed the under dash insulation panels. The interior was mostly complete when I got it, save for some minor trim things that needed addressing, like the busted ash tray flip doors and other small bits. I'd say now the only real things I need done inside would be to find a carpeted mat to go over the pop up rear seats, find an un-cracked dash pad, and eventually get the head liner pulled and redone. Sound deadening would be added to the roof at the same time since it would benefit from it. Anyway, it's running again and I'll be using it for some light, in-town stuff for a little bit.
  7. Just run through a check list that covers major points, especially heater and radiator hoses. A blown hose is no good on a long trip. If anything looks suspect or you don't trust it, change it. All the hoses looked fine on the '87 when I went to PA this year, but one sprung a leak while I was up there. I did get that repaired, however, I then found the other heater hose obscured by the intake was starting to seep antifreeze, so that's been replaced too.
  8. I'm going to go ahead and try to get time off of work.
  9. With a red interior, there's about four exterior color combinations that would flow nicely. Black, white, red, and silver. Black, white, and silver could all use a dark red pinstripe in OE fashion. If silver was used, I would consider a dark tone silver. However, silver might be a bit too much in the gray department, though, given the bumpers being black and gray. If done properly, it still would be fine.
  10. Separate low and high beam lamps always seem to work better, or at least in my experience. How different was the pattern of those HID Town Car assemblies over the regular halogen ones? I know the HID ones weren't projector style. I will say the original design of my '97's lights weren't that great. They worked, but weren't the best thing. There was a time where the lighting output on the '87 was better. Obviously now using a modern retrofit helps a ton. I figure E-code lights on the low beams for the '87 will rectify the weak beam issues. Newer headlights from surrounding cars really wash its lights out.
  11. Finally got the '97 home from the shop, and that'll be the first and last time I use this particular shop. I think I'll stick to going to my preferred places that I've used before. Long story short, it was thought the old compressor didn't blow its internals into the line so just the compressor was replaced. Spoiler: The old compressor blew its internals into the lines and clogged the works. Only took a total of three extra go-arounds to figure that out when it's 30 PSI on the low side and 350 PSI on the high side. My complaint every time was the system is short cycling but holding pressure. It was bouncing off the high pressure switch most of the time if the system was on. I also have to go back to the shop tomorrow to get my fucking battery hold down. I heard rattling on my way home from the passenger front. Pop the hood in the driveway and battery is just chilling there. Shop still has it and they forgot to install it back. Also got to get the A/C hi/lo port caps they forgot to install back. I went to this shop because I heard they had a pretty good reputation in the area. I don't like it when jobs are half-assed, though. Beyond my battery hold down missing, I also found the fan shroud wasn't installed back properly. I had to re-align it and actually tighten a bolt that was left halfway out. Then I had to wipe off all the PAG oil from the header panel filler piece and spray the accumulated oil from the bottom of the belly pan. Then I washed the car because of all of the grimy hand prints on the hood and fender. /rant At least the car is cleaned, vacuumed, and the A/C blows ice cold again, and reliably at that. It has a new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, lines, and condenser. The evaporative core was flushed clean. Hopefully the replacement equipment will do another 20 years or 185K before failing. I also swung by to look at the '87 some more while the intake is off. There's a suspect heater hose that needs to be replaced before things go back together. It looks like it has been oozing. I gave it a poke and it just started spurting antifreeze everywhere. I'm glad I pulled stuff apart when I did, otherwise I bet I'd have a hose letting go while on the road.
  12. Were there no good speakers in the stock size so you didn't have to hack up the parcel shelf? Also, does the parcel shelf panel fit in place anymore? JBL audio swap was the best thing I've done for myself.
  13. Dropped the '97 off at the shop the other day. Shop called me back today and have finally determined something must be clogging up the system. They're measuring 30 PSI on the low side and 350 PSI on the high side. I okayed it for them to flush the system out. Hopefully this will be the end of this debacle.
  14. No idea if anyone has a car that they could use a 5x114.3 with zero offset rim on, but here we go: I currently have no use for a my old aluminum wheels from the '97. They've been off the car for years in a corner in my garage using space. All of them are in reasonable shape for their age. The tires on them are bald and old. I will try to get those dismounted soon. They are available for the low price of $40 for the set. Only downside is local pickup. If you're in Georgia or South Carolina, I can try and meet you about halfway. PM me if you're interested.