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Kodachrome Wolf

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Kodachrome Wolf last won the day on November 23

Kodachrome Wolf had the most liked content!

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404 The Chosen One

About Kodachrome Wolf

  • Rank
    Land Yacht Hoarder
  • Birthday 02/16/95

Car Information

  • My Car
    1997 Grand Marquis LS & 1987 Colony Park LS
  • Engine
    281ci Modular V8 & 302ci Windsor V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evans, GA
  • Chapter
    Southeast

Recent Profile Visitors

3597 profile views
  1. Tossed on new wires, spare cap and rotor for the '87. Seems to be running smoother than before, so that's a step forwards. I'm thinking there may be a small vacuum leak on the booster. I can manipulate idle speed given how hard I press on the pedal, and at a certain point, a hissing noise can be heard. Lower intake may have a small coolant leak at a gasket. Coolant pooled to the right of the distributor near the water pump I think. You can see a damp area coming down from the intake area. Nick recommended I try tightening it down some more and see if that helps. I guess that'll be the job for next time. '97 got washed for a trip to Columbia tomorrow. I also got an estimate and date set for the repaint on the fender. They'll be realigning the panels and will be adjusting the bumper some beyond just painting the affected area. It goes in December 18th. Depending on how quickly it gets done, I may have it back before Christmas.
  2. The recirculating ball type steering 4.6 cars dump oil on the drag link when you yank the filter. I’ve found cutting the wheels left makes it easier to get at the filter since there’s suspension stuff that gets in the way. Drain plug is easy enough. The 5.0 is definitely a breeze, especially since the plugs are further forward and the filter is in a slightly more open area.
  3. I should of ordered one for the ‘97 earlier, but I guess I’ll get one before my next oil change. Don’t really think I could make them super effective on the ‘87 since that has two drain plugs, and I don’t know if it would be worth putting those on it. Still neat little drain valves. A few people on CVN run them as well with good results on the 4.6.
  4. Weight savings, yo. If you don't know what that was, it was a completely useless smog pump with Thermactor valves. There's no cats on the wagon, so there's no air lines, and nothing for the pump to do, if the pump was actually functional. Nick gutted it some time ago so it was more so a really big idler pulley. I just wanted the hoses in the way gone. They make it more difficult to get at the spark plugs and the pump itself gets in the way of the manual belt tensioner. It's a lot easier getting at the bolts to tighten them on that tensioner now.
  5. Big wagons are so easy to park. Sounds silly, but I had to parallel park the Colony Park while in Wilmington, NC. You always know where the front and back are. I could drop it in where I pleased and toss a quarter in the meter. We were eating lunch and watching a couple spotting each other parking a Civic. On the flip side, I wish the CP had the passing ability of the later 4.6 cars. You plan every pass you need, drop it in Drive so you don't wait for the kick down, get a clear stretch and floor it. The TV pressure is set high enough if I get into it at 50-55, I'll get a drop from 3 to 2 and it'll hold it to almost 70 MPH. I need all the gear I can get, and nothing beats the look on people's faces as a tired looking brick goes roaring by.
  6. Damn. At least there's always next time.
  7. Sold!
  8. I've now given the wagon the ability to show me how quickly it'll drink gas: Handy-dandy Ford Tripminder. Gives you a clock with the time, day of the week, and month. You can do elapsed time for a trip. You can get Insta-MPG or average MPG. You can get your average speed or a digital trip odometer. Final function is a fuel consumed function. It essentially offers a lot features seen in later Ford digidashes, and even now in new cars. Obviously it's super '80s, but completely functional, and it only uses two extra wires over the traditional digital clock. One wire is for fuel flow input, the other is the vehicle speed input. In reality, the wagon isn't that terrible on gas, I just took that picture climbing a steep hill. Cruising around at 40 MPH, it was holding a steady 17 MPG on the read out. This is where it was at after driving in slow traffic in a hilly residential area: Should be useful in determining where the sweet spots are while cruising down the highway. I also installed hood weatherstripping that goes at the wiper cowl. I didn't realize there was supposed to be weatherstripping there until I was looking at the '89 LTD CV I've been taking parts off of. Lots of little pieces from that LTD are surviving on in the wagon.
  9. Wagon is doing better. All my issues were related to a bad pickup in the distributor. The pickup wasn't dead enough to shut the car down, but dead enough the output was flaky and the computer wasn't able to adjust the timing properly. It would run okay-ish without the SPOUT connector plugged in. I had to swap out two distributors. The first new one I got went bad moments after starting. The replacement had no problems. It got a lot of Motorcraft stuff stuck on it, too. Swapped Autolite plugs for Motorcraft and put a Motorcraft TFI module on. I'm not a fan of the mating surface upon which the TFI sits (rather rough and pitted, not smooth), so a remote mount setup will be a "sooner-than-later" deal. I'd rather not fry a good TFI, especially on the road. That type of surface is not going to promote great heat transfer. I got the oil changed a few days ago. I figured out that it'll always read a half-quart low after an oil change. It was the same way the first time I changed the oil and I thought it used a good bit. I figure it might have something to do with the large FL-1A filter. Happy the oil level stays consistent in this 302. I'm sticking with Motorcraft 10W-30, but I may try a FL400S filter over the FL-1A on the next change. A little less volume to fill and should make that first start after the oil change gentler on the engine. I've got to re-check the timing. I left the timing a bit retarded and I need to advance it a few degrees. I expected I'd be off a touch after having three distributors in and out of it. The sedan needs to go in for warranty A/C work. As much as I'd rather not have those clowns dicking around the engine bay again, I've got to get the A/C functional again. I manage without it, but it's an inconvenience for passengers and long distance trips. The compressor is short cycling, so either it's low on refrigerant, or there's a clog creating high pressure.
  10. The '87 has got me right here: The other day I really was able drive it. That pesky rough idle BS came back. Today I tried blocking off the EGR using a penny, just to confirm that wasn't the root cause. Car still ran stupid. So of course I'm running through ideas with the folks on GMN. Someone mentioned to me to check to see what the alternator is putting out when it starts running poorly. An interesting tie in to that theory is I swapped out the dash lights for LEDs. The grounds on that car aren't super, so if you have the turn signal on, the dash will brighten and dim a little with each blink. When I was driving it back to storage, and I halted at a light, the dash was flickering hard when it started chugging and loping, and I couldn't tell if the headlights were flickering too. The rough idle also doesn't come on hard right away, it actually gets worse the longer you remain stopped. Now I'm really curious if my junkyard 3G may be junk. I'll break out the multimeter when I have enough time to run over there and look at it, weather permitting. Since it's the worst in drive, I'll set the parking brake, chock the front wheels, and try to depress the brake by shoving a handle or something between the seat and the pedal, so I can be outside of the car measuring output. I could see a low voltage condition be high enough to not trigger the AMP light, but be low enough to throw off the electronics. Frustrating thing.
  11. Managed to haul the tailgate out of the wagon by myself. I didn't want to leave the seat folded down much longer since the seat belts would likely start leaving indentations in the seating surface. I know the rear back cushion isn't perfect, yet I don't want it to get abnormal wear. I really need to wash it since it hasn't been done since June and spending a month under a lean-to, it's gotten rather dusty. I also installed the under dash insulation panels. The interior was mostly complete when I got it, save for some minor trim things that needed addressing, like the busted ash tray flip doors and other small bits. I'd say now the only real things I need done inside would be to find a carpeted mat to go over the pop up rear seats, find an un-cracked dash pad, and eventually get the head liner pulled and redone. Sound deadening would be added to the roof at the same time since it would benefit from it. Anyway, it's running again and I'll be using it for some light, in-town stuff for a little bit.
  12. Just run through a check list that covers major points, especially heater and radiator hoses. A blown hose is no good on a long trip. If anything looks suspect or you don't trust it, change it. All the hoses looked fine on the '87 when I went to PA this year, but one sprung a leak while I was up there. I did get that repaired, however, I then found the other heater hose obscured by the intake was starting to seep antifreeze, so that's been replaced too.
  13. I'm going to go ahead and try to get time off of work.
  14. With a red interior, there's about four exterior color combinations that would flow nicely. Black, white, red, and silver. Black, white, and silver could all use a dark red pinstripe in OE fashion. If silver was used, I would consider a dark tone silver. However, silver might be a bit too much in the gray department, though, given the bumpers being black and gray. If done properly, it still would be fine.