ShelbyRacer78

The thing is... The convertor is still locking and unlocking as it should be! Even when the transaxle light is flashing at me!!

Does anyone have any tips or knowledge about this code? The stupid transaxle light goes off and flashes at me about it and the car seems completely fine about it. I have been told to try "power flushing" the transmission via the cooler lines but I don't have the proper tools to this procedure myself. Any knowledge would be great. If my pile of crap AX4N is about to go then, I guess I'll have to look into either replacing it or *gulp* replace the car....

they are leds, you get new switches when they go out.

you have to run wires from the rcu location to where you want the switch.

Couple weeks ago i changed out the extremely wasted trans mount with a solid rubber one i found on rockauto. Sadly i think the trans is getting tired of my sh!t and it sometimes throws a P0740 code... I'm not sure what I can do about it. A replacement trans isn't really an option...

keep driving the car. only real way for the them to become complete

Just run the car into ground. its not worth modding these outdated old cars. Just keep up on maintenance and it'll last for a long time, given before the rust sets in and ruins the whole car.

Over the almost 4 years of ownership of having my sable. I"ve done all 4 hubs. Both fronts were R&Red and the rears were swapped because rear disc conversion. I've found that popping the lower ball joint makes the job for the fronts miles easier.

Please tell me the back window rolls down.

80% of my t-shirts are from Blipshift

Couple years ago the thermostat piping failed on me when the port for the return line broke off. I replaced it back then with the Dorman part..... 40/10 DO NOT RECOMMEND. (you'll see soon enough) I finally got my hands on the proper motorcraft unit which included a new thermostat housing. Also had a chance today to replace said unit. Here's the pics from the job. Wonderful new Motorcraft unit. POS dorman removed Motorcraft installed went and got some worm gear hose clamps to replace the grenade spring clamps. This is why you shouldn't cheap out

could have piped it into the intake and had a supercharger!!

if anyone one has the google chrome browser, you'll want this: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj/related?hl=en

Also got a proper subwoofer and box. 10in kenwood with a carpeted and sealed box

forgot to post in here that i got the power passenger seat

@Jaybrooks Wiring was a breeze. Getting that seat from the donor car without all the proper tools... that was a challenge!

Got the last option my sable didn't come with from the factory. Power Passenger seat! Got to wire it all in using the OEM connectors. Even pinned the same connector the heated seat stuff.

One for each bank of cylinders and the 3rd to keep the EAP happy. You can delete the 3rd cat and have no issues. along no CEL plus gain some throttle response.

Welp, last week and last weekend I filled that 6x9 hole in the rear deck of the sable. I tried wiring in JBL rcu with an aftermarket amp and subwoofer but that didn't work. Went with a line-out converter on the mach rcu to make me happy. Rockville 6x9 subwoofer and a Rockford Fosgate amp with a 4awg KnuKoncepts amp wiring kit. replaced that spacer with a smaller one so it'll fit under the parcel shelf I'm sure the wiring could look better but I'm still looking for the proper trunk liner with the home for the CD changer... Overall I'm happy with results filled that mi

Yeah, after 2004 ford stopped putting rear sway bars on the taurus/sables.

Far point

Imgur you can just copy the image address and paste it here and be done....

Use imgur, google photos doesn't work

water pump could be the grinding noise.... but the sound could be something else in the beil train.