Jump to content

AKeternal

Centennial Member
  • Content Count

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AKeternal

  1. Psh... Lowering Springs... To each their own though. Some look good with it.
  2. I can post pics of those lines in the morning. But it sounds like that may be what they are for, because I do have the hiss under the dash while I'm driving, I'll try plugging them tomorrow and see if the hissing goes away. Thank you.
  3. Well, I think you all are right then, at first I was thinking maybe it was a unsealed gas cap light like the never cars have, but I got gas and put it up above a 1/4 tank, and the light turned off. As far as the lights go, I'm gonna replace them probably Friday when I get my next check, but I really wish I could find some non-sealed beam headlights for it, anyone know of any? (-.-) Like some adapter kits or something, cuz I'd like to get LED bulb headlights for it.
  4. Well, a week or so ago I posted asking what you guys knew about the 85' Mercury Grand Marquis 2dr, and I went ahead and went through with the deal, so I'm now the proud owner of this classic. I'll post pics after I give it a wash and wash and finish detailing the interior. But, as always with getting old, used cars, especially ones you're not experienced with, there's a learning curve. For example, I've got plenty of experience with the EFI 302 in the 90's F150's, but I don't know too much about the TBI 302 in this hog. So first question, The headlights. It has the fancy Auto Delay lights, and regardless of weither the switch is set to delay or off, when you pull the knob out all the way, the low beams don't turn on. But when you hit the high beams, all 4 lights light up, so I know the lights aren't out. But would it be a fuse somewhere, wiring, or just simply the switch is worn out, because of course the high beams come on when you hit them, even with the light knob all the way in. So just like how the old wiper motors would get messed up and not be able to go intermittent anymore, possibly just need a new switch? Also, the fuel light came on on the dash, and it still has about a 1/4 tank on the gauge... Is the fuel light on the dash an indicator of a leak in the pressure of the system? And there's a random pair of vacuum lines coming out of the fire wall into the engine bay, and one of them has vacuum when the engine is on, the other does not, but I have no clue where they're missing from, and they're likely important... (-.-)
  5. Well, it was a grandparent's car before the current owner bought it just recently. The only rust is some surface rust on the passenger door, and the hood ornament is in the glove box, just needs to be put back on the hood. Still has all the exterior trim too. Heater works, A/C not sure, needs service I'm sure, A/C isn't used too often up here. Haha It needs new struts pretty bad though, drove it today and it bounces, it's an extremely smooth ride, but it bounces like a boat. It has a rebuilt AOD in it as well and it shifts well, but when you let off the gas it feels like you tapped the brakes, any ideas on what that'd be?
  6. Anyone happen to know how much it might be worth If I buy it, clean it up outside, fix the broken glass, and bring full life back to the motor? Like how much it'd go for in excellent condition? Cuz he wants a grand now because he replaced the starter, and I already have a 91' F150, my 05' Taurus, and my gf's Mitsubishi Outlander. I wanted to fix it up and have it replace her Outlander, but she'd prefer a newer car that isn't a boat. (I love those older boats. )
  7. Hey guys, so a kid in my apartment complex is selling his 1985 Grand Marquis, for $700. It reminded me of the old 92' Town Car I had, so I'm kind've interested in it, especially for that price. Granted it definitely needs some cleaning up, but I've heard the 2 door versions were more rare because not many people wanted the 2 door version. Thoughts? http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4400200075.html
  8. Congratulations on a beautiful piece of work. The feeling of firing up a rig for the first time after a build is amazing. And it looks astonishing. Good job sticking with it.
  9. I got my rig dyno'd the other day. In a 60F degree shop, with no air pushing on my front air-dam intake pipe, with 2" over sized tires, with 2 partially clogged Cats, and no 3rd Cat/ Resonator/ Muffler. My car's top run at the wheels was 140Hp @ 4,600rpm (150Hp @ 4,900rpm stock rating) 160Ft-Lbs @ 4,000rpm (180Ft-Lbs @ 4,000rpm stock rating) And I feel the information given on stock ratings, is at the Crank and not the Wheels. And a 9 year old motor, with 125,000miles, those numbers sound pretty good to me. And the power band is absolutely beautiful, this thing is all torque, all the time. Both myself and the shop was impressed with that. The drop in torque vs stock is most likely from having to turn the over sized tires, the lower back pressure from straight piping, and somewhat worn torque strut etc. Then take into account that outside right now in AK it's about 30F and on the hwy I have the force of air on the intake duct, so the numbers are likely higher on the road too. And people say Modding a Taurus is stupid...
  10. And I got my rig dyno'd the other day. In a 60F degree shop, with no air pushing on my front air-dam intake pipe, with 2" over sized tires, with 2 partially clogged Cats, and no 3rd Cat/ Resonator/ Muffler. My car's top run at the wheels was 140Hp @ 4,600rpm (150Hp @ 4,900rpm stock rating) 160Ft-Lbs @ 4,000rpm (180Ft-Lbs @ 4,000rpm stock rating) And I feel the information given on stock ratings, is at the Crank and not the Wheels. And a 9 year old motor, with 125,000miles, those numbers sound pretty good to me. And the power band is absolutely beautiful, this thing is all torque, all the time. Both myself and the shop was impressed with that. The drop in torque vs stock is most likely from having to turn the over sized tires, the lower back pressure from straight piping, and somewhat worn torque strut etc. Then take into account that outside right now in AK it's about 30F and on the hwy I have the force of air on the intake duct, so the numbers are likely higher on the road too. And people say Modding a Taurus is stupid...
  11. That manual swap is absolutely beautiful... I wish he had a estimate on price and time that took... I'd have to drive my truck around for quite a while to do that swap, and even with the R2-5Speed in it, it's still quite a gas hog compared to the 32hwy mpgs I'm getting now. (-.-)
  12. I had no idea! I'll have to check that out, it'll definitely come in handy if it snows again this season, then next season. Like my old F150 with the R2 5-speed, I can take off in 2nd and minimize wheel slippage.
  13. So, just curious if any one has done the research on if the old MTX-IV manual transmission for the 2nd Gen SHO would possibly swap over to a 4th Gen? Or anyone know of an aftermarket manual transmission option, or even just some way to adapt the AX4N to be Tiptronic persay?
  14. Will it swap with the Vulcan Alts? Likely it won't, but if anything, do you know if the same company makes one for the Vulcan motor?
  15. I've had: 1990 Ford F150 RegCab-LngBed XLT Lariet (302ci E4OD) [4x4] -Totalled in Head On- 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 RegCab-LngBed [2WD] -Sold- 1989 Ford F250 ExtCab-LngBed XLT Lariet (460ci C6) [4x4] -Blown Tranny, Parted Out- 1984 Dodge Charger 2.2 (2.2L I4) [FWD] -Sold, Regrettably, Probably Never Find Another- 2002 Chevy S10 LS ExtCab-ShtBed (4.3L V6) [4x4] -Sold- 1986 Subaru GL [FWD] -Blown Engine- 1992 Pontiac Grand Am GT (2.3L I4) [FWD] -ECM Malfunction- 1992 Lincoln Town Car Executive (4.6L V8) [RWD] -Given To My Aunt- 1992 Toyota Camry LE (3.0L V6) [FWD] -Junked- 1984 Chevy C10 Canadian Model (350ci Swap) [4x4] -Impounded- 1990 Ford F150 RegCab-LngBed XLT Lariet (302ci E4OD) [4x4] -Given To My Cousin- 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (Vulcan V6) [FWD] -Current DD- 1991 Ford F150 ExtCab-LngBed (302ci 5Spd) [4x4] -Current Bad Weather Hog- With buying, rebuilding, messing with, selling, all these, I've found so far that my Taurus, and my F150's perform the best in the winter months. The only problem the F150's have in the snow, is their tendency to slide straight through a corner with any brake pressure in 2WD. But drop it in 4x4 and it's unstoppable, I've driven through snow berms in my 5Speed and it just keeps on truckin. I'm no novice when it comes to driving and working on rigs, granted, with the automotive industry as vast as it is, always learning something new. Personally, I hate traction control and ABS, it's at times an inconvenience. And, SHO-WGN, I'm jealous of that Mustang, recently I've been perusing craigslist's all over the U.S. trying to find a 69' Mustang Boss 302/429 to rebuild, but even rolling, broken apart, project chassis' I've been finding, have been several thousands. (-.-)
  16. Generally, why so many 4x4's and AWD vehicles end up in the ditch, is because the drivers think they're invincible... It happens a lot up here, like during a snow storm, you'll be going 55/60 on the hwy, and have the guy in the lifted 4x4 whiz past you at 75 because he thinks he's more safe. And if I do this, I think I'll get another 4th Gen and the wrecked Fusion to do it with.
  17. And that is why mine is lifted with suv tires. I can drive through almost a foot of snow without anything but the tires touching. And still gets amazing gas mileage. I'll agree that, yes, if we get a snow storm with over a foot of snow on the ground, with ice underneath, I get out the 4WD hog I have. But I much prefer 18city/34hwy gas mileage versus 14mpg twowheel/10mpg fourwheel mileage
  18. So, I got it taken care of. And I DID have to remove the entire knuckle to be able to do it. After removing the Axle Nut, Tire, and Caliper/Rotor. Unbolted the Tire-Rod End, Lower Strut Pinch Bolt. Then using a McPherson Spring/Strut Compressor, I was able to pull the bottom of the Strut out of the Steering Knuckle, then remove the Steering Knuckle from the Lower Control Arm. Then pulling the CV-Axle from the Steering Knuckle I was able to pull the entire Steering Knuckle from the car. Autozone has a ball joint press tool specifically for the Taurus, so pressing the old one out and new one in was quite easy. Then of course reassembly is the reverse.
  19. As mentioned by SHO-WGN, it's about the urge to be different. I agree, the Taurus can definitely go more places than a truck in 2WD, if I ever get stuck going up a hill forwards, I can generally just turn around and back up it for example. And as for ground clearance, with my lift I installed and the clearance from the bigger tires, I have as much clearance underneath as a brand new F-350's differentials do stock. I do realize this would be a massive undertaking, and for now I'm just compiling opinion and research because the bull is my daily driver at the moment. Thank you SHO-WGN for enlightening me to the vastness and finer details of the ordeal rather than just putting forward negativity. It may be a long, strenuous, and probably expensive project, but that's part of the fun. I like that truck by the way, a friend of mine had an old Nissan like that and loved it because even the small four-wheeler trails through the woods he could fit that thing down. And when you're done with it, it'll definitely be impressive, and something you can say you built yourself. I do, I've had an 89' F250 (460ci C6) [blown tranny], two 90' F150's (302ci E4OD) [one totalled in a head on][one sold to my uncle], and my current 91' F150 (302ci R2-5speed). As well as a number of other cars/trucks I've owned, built, sold, or parted out. I used to have a 92' Lincoln Towncar with the amazing V8 they had, it was beautiful.
  20. So, I'm just brain storming here for crazy ideas, but I'm looking for something else I can possibly do with my 05', something that seems feasible, but that not many other people have done. I already have a 2" lift and 2" bigger tires, and have vastly opened up the exhaust and intake. But what about an AWD conversion? Can anyone think of a way that it'd be possible? I don't think it'd be without serious overhaul, even just in terms of having somewhere to run a driveshaft underneath would be hard, but what if a 4th Gen was dropped on a Ford 500 frame? Those are made in an AWD?
  21. Well, I'm tackling the project tomorrow morning, wish me luck. Also keep in mind, that my struts are mounted 2" lower on the body of the car than stock, like to get my car up off the tires I have to use pallets under my jack to get the height I need, so that extra play at full extension will hopefully make it easier to get my CV-axle out of the knuckle. Then hopefully I can get the joint out without removing the entire knuckle, because as I said, I'll be doing this in a parking lot, thankfully it was like 50 out today, so it'll likely be warm tomorrow as well. I'll post the process on here when i get it done, might replace the CV-axle too while it's disassembled. Then if it proves easy enough to do, I'll do the other side for even wear life.
  22. Hey guys, so the lower driver side ball joint on my bull has been progressively been getting worse and worse, and it's to the point of being to shift the tire back and forth with it airborne, causing my toe to be thrown out, and causing the front end to drop down. To do the lower driver side most shops want between $250-$300, and I don't have that kindv'e money at the moment. So I picked up a ball joint from Autozone, $30, full metal construction. And I'd like to do it myself, but I don't have a garage so I'll be doing it outside the parts store in the parking lot much like everything else I do to it. Through research I've found to get the ball joint out I have to pull the cv-axle out of the steering knuckle because it's in the way, but I'd like to know some opinions on weather I can get the cv-axle out and press out the ball joint without removing the entire knuckle from the car. Like If I can just back the cv-axle out of the knuckle and get it out of the way, then go from there pressing up the ball joint. Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated, because it's making it very unsafe on the hwy. I drive about 50 miles a day for work alone, so it's quite a priority.
  23. Where, and how do you get that? I have an Android phone. I've been trying to find an OBD2 performance monitor I can plug in and mount on my dash, but they're all pretty expensive and I don't need a programmer, I just want a monitor.
  24. I'm quite thankful for that part number right there. PN#87072-S91. I think my IMRC gasket has a leak, because idling it likes to lope like it has aftermarket cams... (-.-) And I've checked and replaced most my other vacuum lines already just due to them being 130k miles old. And I went to the dealership trying to find this part number and the fool behind the counter had no idea what I was even talking about... I can't believe they let some people work places like that... when they don't know anything about the cars they sell parts for...
×
×
  • Create New...