Jump to content

mwzephyr

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About mwzephyr

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 11/03/1954

Contact Methods

Car Information

  • My Car
    99 taurus se in cobalt blue
  • Engine
    3.0 vulcan v-6 OHV 12 valve, engine code 'U'

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    north central Illinois
  • Interests
    cars, reading, writing stories and poetry, repairing and upgrading old machinery etc.
  • Chapter
    Not Enrolled
  • TCCA Name
    not enrolled
  1. Kev, Electrical maybe but more likely fuel line leak allowing air to bleed into system. All it takes is a pin hole leak. I have had them before. Check the fuel line front to back first. When you mentioned the jumpy tach... ~Zep
  2. Today I replaced the camshaft sensor on the 4.6l ' 94 Thunderbird. (p# CSS106). Not too difficult . $23.00 from Advance Auto. Gave me a chance to pull the aluminum bracket that supports the coil and power steering reservoir, and clean it up some. Car has no code ( P0340) now and seems to start up better. Cold as hell outside without a garage but it was only wind-chill. LOL. No worries now. ~Zep
  3. How are you managing with bumps and soon snow with the chin spoiler? Is it reinforced on the back to protect the fiberglass? A smart man! I agree completely. If you drive it regularly why row it ... just throw it into gear and drive... ~Zep
  4. Went the hard way to a solution for my heater core problem. Let me explain: Had a limited amount of heat, so I flushed system before winter and refilled. Pretty standard stuff huh? BTW the engine was never overheating started and ran at normal temps. I know the radiator has got good flow-thru. Any way then I had zero heat. So next day I re flushed the heater core lines and core and had heat for maybe about 3 hours. "Sushi#&$%'. Then next day loosened clamp on passenger side top heater core hose and held it in place fully expecting it to leak as I had the engine running. No leaking! "Sushi#&$% again! So I shut the engine off and bled pressure off via the coolant reservoir cap and then pulled the same afore-mentioned hose off. No liquid came draining out. That's not normal... So I blew air from my compressor blowgun into the same hose to see if I would get any liquid out of the other end. After almost 30 seconds I got a burst of fluid out of the "t" connector and then back pressure and draining from my heater core line.. Great. Reconnected the hose and refilled and drove the car till the next day - about 4 hours when the heat went from sauna hot to lukewarm... Now I really am not happy. the next morning I had the bright idea that I was going to blow each part of the system out individually and flush them after I drained the new coolant and refilled with water and super flush... After 2 hours of running the engine with this and minimal cabin heat I drained and flushed the system through the radiator and then the fun started. I flushed the heater core coolant lines with the core connected and flushed that with the garden hose for about 15 minutes. no clog there. then I connected my (washing machine hose/ heater core hose with clamps adapter) hose to the brass manifold at the driver's side of the engine and proceeded to flush thru there about 15 minutes. also had the radiator draining at this time too. Then I reconnected the engine cooling hoses properly and closed the radiator drain and refilled the engine with the pristine but used radiator coolant. I started the engine up and let it idle with the coolant reservoir cover off. While I was giving the engine some gas while I was under the hood I heard a noise that was not normal like something was hitting the radiator fan vanes. Not a catastrophic noise, but not a happy sound. I lasted maybe 5 seconds. I quickly shut the engine off thinking I need a new water pump.... I was going to put the cover back on the reservoir when I noticed a small wad /black thing floating in the reservoir. It was smaller than a small wad of....... ...... foil from the top of a bottle lets just say a coolant bottle. It was discolored and beat up but that is what it was. Now I guess some one was careless once upon a time. But it was a wad like it was the full seal of a bottle. I cannot speculate how it got in there but not by me. The PO or a previous mechanic? Anyway now I have hot sauna like heat and my little traveling clog is removed from my Angel's engine. All's well that ends well. Next I would have pulled the manifold and then the heads, . No more Sushi#$%. ~Zep
  5. Have a 94 t-bird. My opinion~ painted lettering looks cheap like some kid did it in his basement... There is no cool to it, especially when it is not embedded but a stick-on... Just my opinion. ~Zep
  6. Had the rear bumper repaired at the collision shop after a mild hit from another vehicle. Looks nice and new back there. A shiny blue rear bumper. Had the oil and filter changed and yesterday flushed the radiator and engine. May need a new heater core or maybe Angel just hasn't burped yet ~not sure, as no heat. Had it before the flush... ~Zep
  7. 1975 Mercury Grand Marquis with a 460 engine, automatic trans. In two tone light blue. Loved that car. Even had the rear wheel well covers! Ran it for years till I blew cylinder #5 piston rod and punched a hole in the cylinder wall. (sigh) It was fast and hauled *ss. Power to spare without a care~ Feel the Thunder! "Pushrods Forever!" ~Zep
  8. Well its either the Camaro, or the SRT8 Charger. God knows I love push rods. Hrmmmm 16 sparkplugs, theres an interesting one for ya!
  9. update. The abs light came on this morning then went out. This happened three times. When I got the part back home and installed, the light never came back on. Didn't bother to clear codes if any where there... Got another foam seat insert for the driver's seat. Maybe install this weekend. No more saggy butt... LOL ~Zep
  10. Replaced the driver's side outer tie rod end, and found the abs sensor at the wheel was broken off the knuckle. I unbolted the broken sensor and pulled the broken part out and then pulled the wheel well out and unplugged the cord. Will install a new sensor tomorrow from O'Reilleys auto parts for 34$ on order. Reassembled and the car does not shake when it stops now. The old tie rod end wasn't shot but worn and the boot was broken so it must have allowed a shimmy. The trans mount wasn't the culprit. I was amazed that the abs didn't throw a check engine light but the car apparently doesn't have even have a dummy light for the abs or the parking brake being on...??? ~Zep
  11. Time for me to ask for help again. 1999 Ford Taurus Se sedan, engine code 'U' location drivers side front... Transmission mount...? I don't know what I want to do need suggestions. History~ Replaced my rotors today because I'd had vibration issues on stopping. Solved that. Front wheels are balanced, half shafts are good per dealer, trans is good per dealer and by my use of it... Both wheel bearings were replaced with new, one ball joint (on driver's side) and both inner tie rods. Outers are solid and newer. Had a dealer alignment. Trans was thoroughly flushed. All brakes done on for corners, so no dragging...Much better since all of that got fixed. I never thought about it but today when I looked at the driver's side I saw the front drivers side mount which I take to be a transmission mount I saw the rubber was starting to lose it's "skirt ", ~a large thread of rubber had peeled away from the mount and although the metal part looks solid and I can't make mount move by hand, I get a bugger of a feeling that the tremble that I still feel when I accelerate and sometime when I slow down on the driver's side it tied to the mount being worn or loose. There are two large bolts maybe 15mm holding the bracket to the frame/ body and maybe one bolt looks like a 12mm or 13mm I dunno for sure holding it to something else. I didn't want to pull the plastic wheel well cover away as I had to use the car immediately after. I am pursuing better, though perfection in a car this old isn't an option. Any pointers or ideas from the bull masters here? I could use some input... Thanks in advance! ~Zep Don't have access to a camera...
  12. Well today I took the time and money to replace my front rotors, they were past cutting and vibrating badly on stopping. Smooth as silk now.~Zep
  13. On the '99 Thunderbird, changed the air filter and the pvc /valve. Bought front brake pads to change out on the weekend. Might also replace the belt if inspection warrants it...Otherwise still looking good.~Zep
  14. pulled my blower motor and resistor unit. Blower motor armature worn down deep and brushes almost gone. motor worked strong but smelled burnt and 2 relays toasted in two weeks. Resistor thing totally rusty and I just decided to replace it new blower runs silent, strong and without odor. Just need to replace the cabin filter then the smell will be gone. Now I am all ready for next weeks predicted heat wave. Advanced auto parts set me back about 80$ but hey, ac working is worth it. Reused the blower fan..three bolts on blower under pass side dash and two screws on plenum under pass side for the resistor coil thing. About one hours worth of work counting the trip to the parts store. ~Zep
×
×
  • Create New...