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About eaton

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/06/1986

Car Information

  • My Car
    2000 Taurus SE Comfort (SEL)
  • Engine
    3.0 Duratec 24V

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Akron, Oh
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  1. Yes it was measured on my friends dual mic TermLab Mic. BTW I also used his HiFonics BRX2400.1D. Hit 142.7dB @ 38Hz for 4 seconds using 2260-2273 watts. He has one hell of a monitoring system software he made! Details everything. Alternator was running from 13.26V-13.07V during the test. STOCK ALTERNATOR!!!
  2. I ran the power the same way only used 1/0 gauge Tsunami wire with a 250A ANL fuse. Love the results. How did u run the power to the amp? Just curious. Instead of going through the firewall, I ran it into the driver door jam and into the grommet leading into the cabin of the vehicle. Found this to be a lot easier than trying to find the steering column grommet. BTW I have a FI Q12 running off a Hifonics BRX2000.D in a 2.3 cu/ft custom box tuned to 32Hz made by yours truly. Using 1400 continuous at 1 ohm. Got a DDIN JVC deck w/ Bluetooth and (3) 4V preouts. Boston acoustics 6" components running off of an Elemental Designs Nine.4 @ 2 ohm. Sub hit 142.7dB at 38Hz
  3. So I took a video to give you all a visual of my situation but the file was too big...have to settle for a screen shot of the video. In the picture u can see the broken bolt sticking down from the unibody, the subframe and what's left of the bushing, about 3" down. The car is obviously on stands. When the car is lowered, the gap shrinks to about 1.¾" I have been spraying the bolt with blaster constantly. Tomorrow I am going to add some heat and attempt to grab the end sticking down from the body and twist it out. If all goes as planned I will be able to put the new bolt and bushing in. If this doesn't work, I am going to install the new tranny mount and then weld that sumb***h up!
  4. Exactly. All I can find is people breaking the rear bolts and having to go thru the floor of the car ect... I knew I should have just stayed inside and watched House of Cards today!
  5. I think thats the route I'm going to go. I just hope the bolt is strong enough to turn without breaking. If all else fails then I will drill it out. If I do drill it out tho, how would I go about getting a new nut into the frame to tighten the bolt? Sorry I've never had to mess with subframe bolts really so this is all greek to me as to what they are fastening to. Obviously there is something inside the frame, and by drilling out the old bolt I will be destroying any threads that are with it. So how do I get a new nut into the frame?
  6. Ok, so late this afternoon I decided to replace the front struts on my 2000 Taurus. All was going super easy. Had the old drivers side strut out within the first 5 minutes! Thought I might be able to install the strut into the spindle without lowering the subframe and failed. Loosened up the rear subframe bolt without a problem. I saw the front was fairly rusted so I sprayed heavily with Blaster and went to eat dinner. When I went to loosen the bolt, as soon as I put pressure on the wrench, SNAP! Instead of breaking the bolt head off, it snapped right where the subframe and the body meet. I was able to install the strut with no problem upon lowering the subframe. Now my problem is how in the hell am I supposed to get this old bolt out and get a new one in without completely lowering the subframe? I have room to cut the snapped part flush with the body and can probably even drill it out. Question is how do I get a new nut into the frame to tighten the new subframe bolt? Am I going to have to use a hole saw to access inside the frame? I've thought about just welding it up as is tomorrow at work just so its up. If I ever need to lower it again, Ill just cut it I guess. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. I have no choice but to drive the car tomorrow to work. If need be then I'm going to weld it up
  7. @mwt... ideally yeah I should have gone thru the bottom. But I couldn't get the car high enough. Not enough space. I actually had to lower the car all the way to the ground to pull it. Plus I'm doing this by myself and dropping the subframe isn't something I felt strongly about doing alone. @BIGCJ ... yes the y pipe sucks. Don't wanna have to do it again let alone put it back together. All I did tho was remove the bolts connecting it to he rear manifold, and dropped the entire exhaust. But yes as far as bleeding everywhere, I didn't experience any of that mess. Everything went real smooth. No broken nuts/bolts other than the y pipe.
  8. Sorry its been a while, haven't had any time to work on the car or post for that matter. My apologies. So...over the last week I was able to go to the garage and work a couple hours here and there. The bad motor was pulled today. Total estimated 10 man hours, by myself for that matter. @ BIGCJ, I feel ur pain doing it all alone. Hardest part about taking it out was probably removing the Y pipe since the bolts were rusted and destroyed. Ended up needing craftsman bolt removers. After I got that disconnected, splitting the engine and tranny was seeming impossible. After literally 3 hours of prying and hammering, they finally split right apart. Tomorrow I'm going to start removing the engine from the donor car. This time I will be removing the powertrain from the bottom, dropping the subframe. Basically a trial, see what's more logical I guess. Plus I have to do this in my driveway, middle of November,so its gonna be cold and possibly raining. Going thru the bottom has got to be faster. I've been looking at what its going to take and it looks to be easier, people have said its easier, hell, even the damn chiltons book says go thru the bottom. Either way, the motor is going in my car thru the top. BTW, I'll post pics when I get to a computer. Been posting from my phone and this website isn't playing nice with my android browser. Will post more tomorrow as I get things done on the next car.
  9. Have decided its going out the top as well as everything else. Found quite a bit of rust, which is par for the course in NE Ohio, and I'm gonna redo the engine compartment. Since I have it down and I'm not pressed for time, why not. Looks like I'm replacing the tranny cooler lines, 2 brake lines and possibly the master cylinder, and radiator since the fittings are rusted to shi.tt The more I take out, the more in gonna have to replace.. With everything out of the vehicle, I'm gonna undercoat everything to prevent more rust. Its gonna be a project but I'm psyched its actually all in motion now.
  10. Correct. If u see DOHC anywhere on the engine or exterior of the car, its a Duratec. Unless a previous owner swapped the Vulcan for the Duratec. But being u have an SES, u probably have the Duratec. If it looks like the engine bay is very crammed, then u have the Duratec. I'm in the process of doing a swap on my 2000 Duratec, which by the way is a unique engine for that year and quite crammed, and all I can say is good luck if u decide to swap it out. Doing this primarily by myself with hand tools. Another thing. Look. On the front corner panels just in front of the door. If ur car has a badge saying 24 valve DOHC, that's what u have. This badge was put on all taurii with that engine. Some badges say "sport" DOHC, but its the same exact engine as other Duratec's.
  11. Pretty durable motors yes. I was VERY surprised when I heard her knocking. Not something that happens to many Duratec's. On a side note, got almost everything electircal disconnected from the motor this afternoon. Only had a couple hours and I just HAD to do something to it today. Now I'm off to work for 12 hours. Joy!
  12. Vash, thanks for the input. How'd u go about the AC system? Rusty, can't just leave her for dead. Love these cars!
  13. First off, I'm a new member just wanna say hello.... Hello. Have a 2000 Taurus SEL w/ Duratec sitting dead in my garage for the past year...its off the ground btw. Bought it for fair price, bad dealer. Two months after I bought it, 13 days after their warranty expired, it started knocking. Rod bearing. Drove it for over 18 months , knocking and all, till it died. Thankfully I was on my street and coasted to the driveway. Cash has been tight with children and whatnot, so I haven't been able to fix it. Can't part with the car, its immaculate! Fully loaded w/ leather. Well here I am now, with a complete donor 2000 Taurus with the Duratec, only the transmission is shot. Perfect for what I need. Not only do I get a motor with only 86k on it, but all the spares I'm gonna need as well; starter, alt., pwr steering pump, and so on. I'm gonna be doing this job primarily solo, just looking for the best way to remove the engines. Ford mechanics I know said they would do it at home thru the top, but they aren't helping me out with labor charges. I've read that people have done it at home with hand tools. I've worked in plenty of these cars all the back to 2nd Gen. Time is not an object really, but it would help to have it done ASAP. Any input on how to go about this would greatly help. If I drop the motor thru the bottom, can I leave the AC system intact and just hang from the radiator supports, to avoid discharging the system?
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