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The F150s moonroof/sunroof took a crap on me. The plastic track guides cracked and exploded all over when I tried to open the window last week. It got suck open so I was forced to make an emergency repair. After researching the job and finding out it is a major undertaking I ordered the replacement parts from the Sunroof Doctor. I wasn't going to pay $1000 or more to someone to fix this when I knew I could handle it, just super time consuming. Step 1. Tear the entire interior apart to drop the headliner...took about 1.5 hours Step 2. Get a helper and drop the track/tray assembly that is bolted to the roof. Given the size of the F150 and the huge window this piece was huge and not easy to remove from the truck. Alot of people said to remove the passenger seat and sub woofer but I left both in to save time and maybe yelled a few more curse words in order to pull the assembly out... about 45 mins. Step 3. Disassembly the track and tray assembly and clean and prep for new parts...1 hour Step 4. Install new parts, grease, reassemble, and manually test the track and adjust...1 hour Step 5. Get my buddy to help me reinstall the track assembly in the truck and bolt up...30 min Step 6. Hook everything backup, double check everything, and reinstall interior parts...1.5 hours Step 7. Test sun roof and make adjustments to track and glass alignment for final fit...30 min Step 8. Clean interior of the truck since it was a total mess from the job...30 min That made for over a 7 hour job, probably closer to 8 with breaks and other screwing around. All spread out over 3 days. Easy to see why this is a +$1000 repair when it takes a full day of labor. I didn't take many pictures since I was in total "get the job done" mode. Here's one with the headliner dropped and the track/tray assembly removed. You can see the massive side curtain airbags covering the entire cab. Here's the track and tray assembly removed from the truck. I had just drilled the rivets out holding the back portion on when this picture was taken, explaining all the metal shavings. Otherwise the truck has been doing great. I towed 6000 lbs a few weeks ago from Madison to Green Bay and it drove excellent. With a heavy wind on my tail and towing that load I got upwards of 20mpg. (Empty 2200 lb trailer into the wind got me 14 mpg)

Thanks Jeff. That blue jeans color has a way of hiding all the salt spray I couldn't be happier with the truck so far, no complaints in the 2 years of ownership yet with the exception for the crappy Sync 2 system. The only things on the wish list for it now are: Sync 3 upgrade Bilstein 5100 shocks (just to bump the front end up an inch or so) I'd maybe consider a 87 octane tune and an aluminum intercooler once its out of warranty but there are no mountains and the air isn't usually that hot here. Besides I am quite happy with the output of the Ecoboost where its at right now. We did have a pretty good winter here this year, alot more than the last few years but nothing to crazy. A lot more ice than usual too. The Dueler Alenzas are a good street tire but they lack any major grip in poor conditions. The KO2s tread is a little softer and grabs into the snow and ice much better, helps that the tread depth is like 16/32nds too.

I got some new shoes...or boots for the F150. Also replaced the cracked and rusting stock lugs nuts with a set of black locking Gorilla lug nuts. LT 275/60/R20 BFG KO2s (33s, for reference the Raptor runs 35s stock) Its absolutely amazing the difference these tires make. The truck rides like a truck now and they look awesome. I got it up to 80mph on the highway and the difference in noise compared to the Dueler street tires is barely noticeable, they are super quiet for how aggressive the tread is. I wasn't 100% sure on how the black lugs would look on the chrome rims but I trusted my gut and I think I made the right choice. Gotta like how the Gorilla locking lug nut looks like a normal lug nut too. Set me back $255 a tire fully installed.

I wonder if all the engineers evening working on the new Aluminum body vehicles know this exists. One would think they would want to examine as many of those older aluminum bodies as possible. Maybe since Ford played with a lot of aluminum in the past 20 years they don't need too. I see everyday on older Mustangs, Explorers, F150s, Expeditions, you name it. All had the same paint peeling and oxidizing issue, lol. The hood on my truck is looking good yet though.

I bought the F150 in March of 2017 with 38,000 miles. It currently has almost 58,000 on it. A few cross country trips really rolled them up.

Did a little PM work and some computer related modifications to the F150 this weekend. Started out with a transmission fluid change/pan drop and filter change on the 6R80 since I'm closing in on 60k miles. Overall it was actually pretty straightforward. Ford could have made it way easier by putting a real dipstick on the transmission but whatever I managed to reach up in between the cat and the side of the transmission with an heavy leather glove to check the fluid level without getting burned. Others who have driven vehicles equipped with the 6R80 could probably confirm how good of a job Ford did on its shift schedule and quality but with the fresh fluid it was really smooth and crisp. The Ecoboost/6R80 combo is so quiet and smooth you couldn't even feel the shifts or engine change speed, the RPMs would drop and you'd just keep moving faster. (I know that sounds like a CVT equipped car but it really just goes to show the refinement that Ford put into a pickup truck.) Manually downshifting with the toggle switch was equally satisfying. Most of the bolts removed and draining out over the exhaust...the dumbest part of the whole design and job. Inside the 6R80. You can see the dipstick in the far left front corner of the transmission, notice the massive catalytic converter right behind it where the dipstick access point is. The 6R80 is sealed well, when you crack the 19mm cover nut you can hear the transmission suck in air releasing the vacuum. Then I got to work on the some programming work with Forscan, I had previously activated DRL fog lights, so I continued with adjusting the code to allow the fog lights to remain on with the high beams. I then activated the compass feature in the IPC screen, so I have the full compass app in the IPC and a direction readout all the time on the IPC screen as well as the compass readout on the MFT screen. Several days ago I also installed the Hill Descent Control switch, turns out I didn't have to activate it using Forscan as it was already activated in my truck, just needed the switch. Needless to say that feature works pretty well, it uses ABS to keep the truck from going over a set speed. HDC and Traction Control combo switch. IPC compass app. A nice touch as the vehicle shown is actually a pickup truck.

Probably double that noise because I doubt the Fusion has 2 - 15 or 16 inch fans.

The F150s A/C is kinda fussy like that. Its kinda lame and struggles to produce cold air when its just sitting still or driving slow but when your at cruising speed on the highway the A/C blows ice cold. Its almost obnoxious how loud the high speed cooling fan is on the F150 too, I don't understand how a fan that big roaring that fast can't move enough air over that huge opening but I guess it doesn't quite cut it.

Not to often that I have put the 1500lbs of payload capacity to real work, but these old railroad ties were really heavy. I bet that was a solid 900-1000lbs of old wood. Truck rode like an absolute dream with that weight.

In case anyone is wondering what a good oil sample looks like from a 3.5L Ecoboost. I thought I should get a base line for the truck, this oil had between 5000 and 6000 miles on it, a good mix of regular driving, moderate to heavy towing 5000-8000lbs, and a long 2000 mile road trip. No wear metals, no fuel (good sign for the Ecoboost since they suffer from oil dilution due to the high pressure), no coolant, and no water.

So I did a rear brake job on my sisters car, 2014 Mazda CX-5. Rotors were trashed, lots of pulsing, very rusty, etc. Pretty straight forward and easy job. I take the passengers side rear caliper apart and find one slide pin is bent, and one is all full of brown goop and corroded. So I went to the Mazda dealer in hopes of finding OEM slide pins...I'll just say, don't waste your time with Mazda and their parts department, their only option was to buy a whole new caliper bracket for over $120, and apparently there are only 18 of those in the whole USA. So luckily O'Reilly had what I needed. Put it all back together and wow what a difference, that car has really snappy brakes when they are actually working. I'm not sure how many miles were on those brakes, there was lots of pad left but they were all chopped up and uneven. I read a few things online and I would have to agree with others that Mazda skimped on the brake lubricant from the factory. So I really loaded them up with the good Motorcraft silicone brake lube. New pads and rotors were Wagner TQ ceramic and Wagner Premium E-Coat. So hopefully no dust and no rust.

The front rim is from the Gen 4 (2000-2003 MY cars) the rear "step ledge" rim is from the Gen 4.5 (2004-2007 MY cars).

I do think its a bit of a silly move by Ford but technology has come so far and a lot of these new SUVs are getting much better fuel economy than even 10 years ago. The American auto brands are very good at building SUVs and trucks, they know this and they ride on it. I do think it would be cool if Ford could get back to the days of the 90's where the Explorer just steam rolled everything in front of it, almost a dozen different brands and no one could even come close to the Explorer. Ford just failed at anticipating a market shift...big time. There is definitely something to say about buying a car from an American manufacturer, you as a car buying customer do not matter to them as much as a customer buying a truck. That's one of the reasons I felt so confident buying an F150, I could walk into any Ford dealership and if I'm dissatisfied loudly say "I' think I'm going to go check out a Chevy", and they would be all over me to do anything to make me happy, you do the same about a Fusion or whatever and they wouldn't care near as much. As a company Ford will do as much as possible to keep their truck customers happy...massive TSB support, huge extended warranties, you name it. And when they mess up everyone knows about it and they have to work extremely hard to gain trust back. Its all about the $ and that happens to come from trucks and SUVs. With the new Expedition, Ranger, Bronco, EcoSport, possible Mini Bronco, and the Explorer going RWD it is pretty clear Ford is dead serious about bolstering its SUV lineup. I think a big indicator of how they are going to perform is going to be based on the Bronco, if it actually turns out to be big beefy square body off roader that can run with the Wranger then IMO they aren't messing around. To say your done with Ford because they don't make cars is a bit silly, what if the day comes and you need a truck or a SUV, and you know they have the best vehicle on the market...your going to let the fact that they don't sell a mid-sized car influence your decision to buy a truck or SUV? Removing the Fusion completly did hit me as odd, I mean the Midsized car segment is really big and when the Aston Martin themed Fusion came out it sold extremely well, I would think that really put the confidence in Ford that they can produce a really nice car that people like.

As the title suggests this is a quick overview of a spark plug replacement on a 3.5L Ecoboost...RWD application. Really this job has got to be one of the easiest spark plug jobs on a V configuration. The most basic ratchet and socket set will get the job done with no special tools or real tricks. Once the engine cover is removed by simply pulling it off, the coils are all right there and easily accessible. I started on the passengers side, those heater hoses are kinda in the way but you can still get a 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension back there. Drivers side bank has a few more things in the way, that PCV hose has to be removed and the electrical connector to the fuel pump has to be disconnected. The 2 coils around the fuel pump were the most difficult, both stuck in place and needed a little extra effort to pop off. The coil behind the fuel pump was the hardest to pop out, because some ass hat decided to mess up the rubber seal and let it fold over on itself. Job done. I know these plugs are not the original (they are the updated style) and the truck has almost exactly 50k miles on it. So this engine is on its 3rd set of plugs. Ford specs a gap of .030 in for the ecoboost .028 for tuned engines. The old plugs all checked out around .035 to .038. the new plugs were all unable to pass a .032 in feeler gauge. I could have let those plugs go a while longer but with not knowing when or if they were done, the ecoboosts terrible track record with spark plugs, and 2 cross county trips coming up this summer I wanted to make sure something stupid like a spark plug isn't going to mess anything up. These new SP534 MC plugs appear to be made by NGK, stamped JAPAN on the plug. Maybe next time I'll buy the NGK plugs and save some money. I've always been impressed with NGK plugs, they are top notch in my book. I used the NGK equivalent in the so called "ultra picky" Skyactive engine and my sister has yet to have an issue.

Well we got hit pretty hard with this April snow storm, I woke up to a good 14 or 15 inches of wet heavy snow, drifts were easily 3-4 feet in places. I had to run some errands and I wasn't letting the snow slow me down, I mean I have access to a big 4x4 truck so I wasn't worried. So for fun I tried to back out of the driveway in 2wd, I made it a whole 3 feet before it just spun, so I shifted over to 4, turned off traction control and locked the rear diff. I got down to the end of the driveway and realizing how deep it really was I made the shift to 4low and took off. I had got going good but I ended up stopping in front of the house to talk to a neighbor...I couldn't get moving forward again! I had to rock the truck back and forth to get moving and even then it struggled to get going. I have never seen this happen before but the snow was so wet, dense and heavy and the truck was too light that with all that torque in 4 low the rear axle was wheel hopping on the snow. I thought it was unreal that there was that much torque being put down at 5mph that the entire back end of the truck was jumping off the snow. I'm sure a few hundred lbs of ballast in the bed would have helped a lot. Jeff, I'd expect Lincoln to switch all models to their new front end in the next few years. Look to the Company flagship Navigator and Continental front end.