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compcat

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About compcat

  • Rank
    Newbie

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Car Information

  • My Car
    1992 Sable
  • Engine
    3.0 Vulcan

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Chicago suburbs
  • Chapter
    Not Enrolled
  1. I have the opportunity to buy a 1996 Sable with 80,000 miles for $2000. The owner got it used from a dealer over 8 years ago & has taken it to a very reputable independent shop for any work it needed. The car currently has an occasional stalling problem & the shop said the spark plugs need to be changed - $400 because the back 3 plugs are very difficult to access. The seller would add this to the cost of the car, making it $2400. I have been doing practically all maintenance (including mufflers & suspension) on my cars for years & am tempted to buy the car as-is at $2K &
  2. I want to change the transmission fluid & filter on my 1992 Sable. What is the correct transmission fluid to use? How many quarts? Is Mercon V used in ALL Ford automatics? How do I identify the model of transmission so I can buy the correct filter?
  3. My friend sends a big THANK YOU for all the help. Her garage mechanics were impressed by the instructions & pictures I printed out for them. They were able to remove the grill without breaking it, released the hood & replaced the defective hood lock mechanism.
  4. Any advice on this project? I haven't done wheel bearings before, and the Chilton's manual makes it sound very complicated.
  5. Should I install a new hub or can I reuse the old hub with the new bearing unit? Is it normal for the halfshaft/inner CV joint to have a couple degrees' rotation? And about 3/16" movement in/out when the outer end is disconnected from the hub? Car has 93,000 miles. The outer CV boot has yellow junkyard numbers on it - I'm guessing that the halfshaft & both CV joints were replaced as a single unit.
  6. I need to replace the passenger side front wheel bearing on my 1992 Sable (3.0 Vulcan). I removed the hub while the steering knuckle is still on the car. When I remove the snapring on the inboard side of the steering knuckle holding the bearing unit in place, it will still be on the axle between the knuckle & outer CV joint. Is there a way to slip the axle out of the knuckle to free the bearing? It looks like I may have to remove the knuckle from the car just to free the bearing! That's a lot of extra work!
  7. There is a leak in the ABS system on my 1992 Sable (3.0 Vulcan). There is a sort of junction block on the inner fender, driver's side, with 6 metal tubes leading to it. Two of them connect to the master cylinder & the others were traced to the wheel cylinders. When I fill the master cylinder & depress the brake pedal (after recapping the master cylinder), the fluid leaks out at this block where some of the tubes are connected. The block itself does not appear cracked. Based on brake disc & shoe wear, only my driver's side front brake seems to be functioning, & both the Brake &
  8. The cable broke under the hood somewhere - we don't know where. I suspect the hood release is rusted so that pulling on the cable (if we could reach it) still would not release the hood. I think we may need to work directly on the hood release. How do we get the grille out without opening the hood? (Chart, what's the air dam you mentioned removing?) The shop told my friend they would just break out the grille if we had the car towed in. Of course then they get to charge her for a new grille plus installation.
  9. My friend's 2003 Mercury Sable has a broken hood release cable. The hood release may have been rusted & wouldn't release with normal pull on the handle inside the car. When she pulled harder on the release handle the cable broke. Is there any way to release the hood & open it without breaking out the grill? The battery is also dead so we can't drive it to a shop for help. We tried a battery charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter but the battery won't take a charge off that, so we expect to replace it once we get the hood open. (Due to health problems the car stood unused throug
  10. Problem fixed - The bolt into the engine was missing from the front motor mount! I didn't see that until I removed the AC compressor. (I'm not reinstalling the compressor - hasn't worked in years & I never planned to repair the AC.)
  11. Aha! That makes sense. Thank you! I drove the car after I reinstalled the hose & refilled the system. It doesn't seem to have suffered any permanent damage.
  12. I will inspect the other mounts for damage. What should I look for? Any advice or illustrations to help me with the replacement of the front mount?
  13. I found the root of the problem. Lower radiator hose came off at the back upper end. I reinstalled it & clamped it more securely. But I still don't understand why the dash gauge didn't show a rise in temperature when I lost coolant. My first warning of overheating was engine noise! But the sensor & gauge must be working because the gauge needle rose from cold to mid-normal range.
  14. Is it possible for my 1992 Sable 3.0 to overheat even though the analog gauge on the dash shows lower end of normal temperature? The sensor & gauge are at least partially functional because the gauge rises from cold to just above mid-normal, then drops to lower end of normal when radiator fan starts up. Any suggestions of possible causes? The belt on the water pump/power steering pump (no A/C compressor) is new & snug. Upper & lower radiator hoses were recently replaced. System lost a bit of coolant yesterday (trail of drips) along passenger side when it seemed to overheat, but I
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