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Zeptoplix

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Posts posted by Zeptoplix

  1. Didn't turn out good =/  Had a local guy rebuild my old one. Get hardly any output at ldle, and only clamped 150A from it when he said it should be 180A. I'm wondering if the guy would let me get a refund for the parts he put into it. Just getting sick of messing around with the labor putting in a new alternator every damn week. Saw that mechman has a 240A alternator for $350, had I seen that earlier I woulda just went with that. I bought an alternator earlier online from company X last month, and literally the same thing, no output at idle and clamped 170A from their claimed 220A. Is a good alternator really that hard to come by these days?

     

     

    The problem is typical with a high out put alternator.  They usually do not generate all of their potential at idle.  One thing you can check, is if you have the smallest pulley possible for the alternator.  When I had my H.O built I wasn't even getting 13+V, but it turns out somebody at some point had installed an oversized pulley.

  2. 1343609857[/url]' post='51558']

    More pics taken this morning. This is one of those cars that Grandma owned, then in the past year the kids had it. It started up this morning without issue and took it's last drive as a complete car.

    90interior.jpg

    engine.jpg

    rear-1.jpg

    This will make you sick. 1957 F100, it reportedly runs to.

    A few months back we had a 1960 Edsel Ranger, Knoxville was the first of the 22 other yards to buy any Edsel. This is #2, a 1959. No were near as good as the first.

    Good glass.

    My heart breaks. :(

    Exactly like my old 1990 Taurus which I miss dearly.

  3. You could get an inexpensive line out put converter.

    If you wanted to go with some decent power budget style, I'd pick up a Sundown SA-8, it will take a small enclosure, sealed or ported, and find a budget priced 500W-1000W rms amp. I think if you found this equipment used you could probably have a decent little system for about $200-$250. The SA-8's run around $100 used, and another $150 should get you a reasonably price, and decent output system.

    You would splice into your rear speaker wires, run these into the high level side of the line output converter, which would give you a line out level to run to the new amp for the subs... You wouldn't need a crazy wiring set up to power a small amp like this either, a 4 AWG would probably be sufficent for this.

    You'll have to register here but this link:

    http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/8-subwoofers/111202-sundown-sa-8-d2.html

    $100 shipped for the sub

    http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/mono-amplifiers/111161-rf-p1000.html

    $200 for the amp.

    This sub will handle this amount of of power like a real champ.

    Here is the LOC

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20518_Raptor-LOCA45H.html

  4. :rolleyes:

    Here we go with the JL Audio again. If money was no object there is SO much equipment out there far superior to anything JL has, or will produce....

    As for the original posters concerns. What exactly are you looking for. A basic upgrade from the stock speakers? Consdering that most aftermarket decks are putting out around 17W rms and you are using stock equipment I think you will be fine with your original selection.

    Although reviews are descent, most come from folks who will never put the pair to the test as far as output goes

    Please do not assume because they may not be up to your standards that the people reviewing them are incapable of writing a review on their use. The experience is subjective... You may feel you need a 60W rms speaker, but whats the point if you are not driving it with a 60W RMS per channel amplifier??

  5. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. See the two black plugs for the factory wiring harness, and the antenna plug on the right.

    The part you are installing right now that you think is the radio is just a controller.

    The guts that make it work are in the trunk.

    When you install an aftermarket cd player, this unit is bypassed. You have to run a long wiring harness from the new cd player to the trunk to tie into the existing wiring for the car's speakers, and power. You also run a long antenna cable to do the same.

    Hope this helps.

    post-17-0-30246000-1328139222_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. He had his own cd player installed in the car didn't he.

    The wiring schematic you are describing to me is typical of an aftermarket wiring harness for the speakers on a cdplayer. That wiring harness runs under the carpet and into the trunk where it plugs into the factory harness for the speakers. You will have find the original Radio control unit in the trunk and plug the factory amplifier back in. It is here that the antenna cord is. You will need to plug it back in to the factory amplifier.

    The harness with the green/grey black wires etc, will be ignored. There should be another harness in there that plugs into the radio. If you have already found this then don't worry about it. The next step is to reconnect everything in the trunk.

  7. I had two. The 2000 I was driving was dangerously rusty. I was worried where the strut rod in the rear attaches to the frame/body was going to break because the corrosion was so heavy in spots. Also needed extensive work. Had a coolant leak that I chased for 5 years that was ENOUGH lol... I needed money to go to a U2 show so I sold her for scrap.

    My 1990 was a hard one to let go. Had her for 7 years or so. Spent a lot of time crusing, and working on her. I simply did not have the money any more to bring her back to safe standards... Needed brakes, suspension work, and it no longer had a back seat from my stereo fun. Plus the rust was getting to worsen to the point it was looking like a rust bucket.

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