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Everything posted by SoNic

  1. That's awesome, you can put it on failblog.
  2. Actually, because of the hex shaft driving the oil pump (that doesn't spin easily), there is not too much wiggle room. You could rotate in six different positions the syncronizer, but yes, only one leaves enough room for the sensor connector. I just wanted to say that the adjustment is not done with the teeth, is done by fine rotating the outside part, while the inside part stays in place, attached to oil pump shaft.
  3. There is nothing that wears inside the sensor itself, it has a magnetic pick-up. Just change the mechanical part. Actually the teeth don't matter. You adjust the timing by spinning the OUTSIDE part till you get the correct alignment, and then you lock it by press it down with that big bolt. See my picture above.
  4. "Full insurance"? Did you financed probably? Those are money pits. Nice, shinning, money pits. You could have a cash-paid 10 year old car with only liability insurance and you will be better off. 270$ a month insurance... wow man. Well, you are only 18 so you kinda deserve it Wait till you are 30 and then you can laugh at those "kids". Also... speeding is expensive. That's the main income for more and more states and localities. I had to pay 4 tickets in some 2 years (a while ago) to learn that, now I keep it 10 over when I am alone, 15 if there is traffic arround at same speed - GPS measu
  5. Awesome ideea! You must have some aim! I need to try that next time...
  6. That kind of colimator optics (FX35) in a clear lens enclosure might be OK for glare. But it still illegal to be used on street until is approved by DOT as such. So you can get tickets with ease - every cop knows how HID light looks like, especially the crappy >5000K ones.
  7. No tweaking will compensate for the glare made by bad/cheap HID in a enclosure made for hallogen. Especially with fogged-up lenses. I see them on the strees all the time, they stand out clearly compared with a factory HID (that I ca spot also but they don't bother) me. Besides the fact that is rude to the others on public streets, it is also illegal to change your light system for that reason... Clean the plastic with lens restorer, use good bulbs, clean the ground connection to the firewall, eventually you can try a better harness and be done...of keep wasting money on cheap chinese HID's.
  8. Did drive a 2012 Impala with the V6. It's a beast, same engine that goes in Camaro (non-SS) but limited a tad lower in revs. 3.6L Direct injection, Variable Valve Timing, 300HP... I like it better than the Eco-Boost pushed by Ford. This new one looks better too...
  9. If you ever need it, you are screwed anyway. A bullet is still faster.
  10. Jon Lajoie. Nice! Thanks man, never heard of him...
  11. That's awesome! "physical violence is the´╗┐ LEAST of my priorities"
  12. The only help would be the full synthetic 20. The synthetic oil is "clingier"...
  13. Interesting question. The syncro gears and synchronizer ax are lubricated by the same oil that is in the engine...
  14. All in all, the Duratec and Vulcan where designed around 5W30. The change that Ford did to comply with CAFE was just at oil cap (they labeled it 5W20), nothing inside the engine. Going synthetic assures that the "30" will stay "30" between changes. As opposed to a conventional oil that starts as a monograde and has a lot of additives (IV improvers) to make it multigrade - additives that wear out (especially in older engines). A 5W30 mineral will be probably some 10W15 after 4000 miles... "A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil that is ba
  15. Yeap, those belts cannot take any abuse from the punny 2.0L engine Speaking of economy. I did drive several rentals (my job pays). One was a Impala LT. V6 3.6L direct injection, VVT... After 200 miles it averaged 30mpg (mostly highway with some city). Then I did have a Mazda 6. i4, 2.5L. Averaged 28mpg on same trip. After that, I did rent a Malibu LS. i4, 2.4L, VVT. Averaged 31.5mpg on the same trip. Both i4 where dogs, have to rev them up a lot to get some movement. Saved some 1/2 galon of gas on 200 miles trip with the Malibu. Both have crammed interior (knees in dash, no elbow support),
  16. You loose a couple of HP when the TC is not locked. In today's traffic I cannot imagine driving anything else but an automatic.
  17. Agree for conventional oils. Can you guess where a conventional grade 20 will end up in 1000 miles? That's why I switched to syntetic oil - more stable in time due to the fact that it has less additives to start with. That is less to deplete...
  18. Hey, stay in the right lane and I won't bother your old granny-like moving car... BTW, my Duratec 180K miles, 16 year old engine still kicks ass, thank you for the concern. The Explorer is the one that got ruined at 85K running the 5W20 water... The first number is the thicknes with cold engine (start-up). Is no point of going from 5W to 10W... The second number is the thickness at engine operating temperature. That number you would need to increase.If you run 30 normal oil, try 30 syntetic or even 40. Like 5W40 Shell Rotella T6 (Wallmart has it).
  19. Apples and oranges, especially when you don't say what is "OEM oil weight". Ford designed the engines for 5W30. Put it in the manuals all the way to 2001. Suddenly, when CAFE changed, they start recomending 5W20 in the same engine. You also say "never have issues". Well, you don't know it yet. Wear apear visible at some 100k miles (more or less depending of driving style). Till then you still will have enough pressure to keep the "idiot" light off.
  20. I already explained why I don't trust the manufactures. Because some politicians think they "order" anything on Earth, including laws of physics. White House order "your cars need to comply with this CAFE numbers" next year. Manufacturers can stop making the cars or they can "cheat". Spec'ing thinner oil give them the opportunity to comply immediatly with the CAFE numbers without major/expensive changes in engine design. Same engine was running on 5W30 (up to 2000 year model) and over night runs on 5W20 (starting with 2001 model)? Isn't that phishy? I trusted them with my Explorer and that eng
  21. I wanted to be polite, I know that is a federal law. Some counties don't care for federal laws too much - it is hard to enforce (they would need in the cruiser a light measuring tool). They care more about revenue from radar. Anyway it is RUDE to the other traffic participants to install HID lamps on a car that has the optical block designed around halogen bulbs.It will SCATTER no matter what you do. I can tell the difference between a factory HID and a after-market one when I drive at night... As for "I am not getting flashed": All the people that are bothered by that, might think it's "no
  22. Heck, on my Explorer I did switch from water-like 5W20 to 5W30 and then to 5W40 - to have a decent oil pressure at idle rpm (warm engine). I think that running 100k miles on 5W20 f't up that engine bearings. On my Duratec I use the 5W30 that is in the book. At 180k miles I have no oil pressure issues. I might switch it to the same 5W40 in future. Ford changed the manual on newer cars to say 5W20 just to satisfy CAFE and EPA. There was no change in engine design to support that. More wear for the end user? Who cares, they increased the gas mileage as required by politicians...
  23. In my experience wires are stiil good at 200k miles... It is nothing to go bad with original ones - they are good quality, "silicon type".
  24. Who made the part (that failed so soon)?
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