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SoNic

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Everything posted by SoNic

  1. Thanks! I have some MAF cleaner left over. I'll clean the MAF first and then check for vacuum...
  2. Where is the likely place to look for those? Vacuum leak I guess, but where is likely? Hoses are fine visually, I think I hear some faint whistling under the air intake or by the firewall.
  3. My Sable sucks vacuum trough that oil opening, not really splashing too much. Just what's on the chain.
  4. The dog is is the emergency vet hospital over night (with an IV). Bill is $1000 until now, if they will have to do surgery in the morning, it will be $2500. That's why I didn't want another pet, but was out-voted by wife and daughter years ago... and you can't let the poor animal die now, just because he swallowed something that shouldn't. Guess that will be our XMas presents. Actually more than we were planning.
  5. ^ Yeah, don't worry, in two weeks it will be worse. The only additive that I saw that is recommended by manufacturers is Lubeguard. BTW they have an interesting pdf on their site http://www.lubegard.com/pdfs/downloads/LXE-ATFComparisonbrochure.pdf that shows that TransX is a solvent/seal sweller.
  6. That Sigma V6 that Hyundai used in 2004 cars (XG350, Sonata) and Kia (Sedona, Amanti) is actually a clone of Mitsubishi 3.5L (found in Mitsubishi Debonair, 3000GT). So I blame both for the location of sensors and wires routing This is the second sensor wiring issue on this car. I had already have the camshaft sensor wire being "eaten" by the timing belt when the plastic holders gave up (age and temperature related). My son was driving it at that time being several states away, so that was a $500 bill. My lesson learned - when Rockauto has options for bare sensors and sensors with wir
  7. I had a half-glowing oil pressure bulb on my XG350 dash. Bought the sensor from Rockauto and replaced it. Now I know why they had available the sensor and the sensor plus a small pigtail. After replacing the sensor I still have that glow - my sensor was good and probably that pigtail gets rubbed by the AC belt that is VERY close of it. Of course I didn't buy the sensor with the pigtail and they don't sell that separately. For now I just removed the bulb from the dash, since that glow spills into the SRS next to it (and looks like I have a SRS code) - and that might make the car fail the i
  8. Similar damage repair with JK body parts (including the plastic support for lights) and non-OEM headlights costed me $2000 - labor performed by a small body shop, not dealer. On my case the fuse block was busted too and that required my electrical expertise to replace (with a JY one). My insurance co totaled it for $3000 and I bought it back for $150.
  9. What's wrong with the car design engineers today? They don't give any thoughts to maintenance?
  10. I had replaced the Upper Control Arms (including the Upper Ball Joints) and Lower Ball Joints on the Hyundai XG350. I like the setup better than the MacPherson ones in my Sable.
  11. Why? In my limited experience (comparing my 1996-2001 cars with friend's Toyota's 2001-2006), the Ford's Duratec 3.0L V6 is better. Granted, Toyota works with 87 octane gas, while Lexus is rated for 91.
  12. Language... it tells so much about the owner.
  13. Downstream O2 sensors are used only to check the cat efficiency by comparing with the upstream O2 signals. The Upstream sensor is more likely to fail. Because of that, the downstream can cheaper made. Connectors have different lengths and colors too. However a "upstream" sensor can be used downstream without problems, so a lot of replacement sensors are different just by the length of the wire (and color of the terminal in case of Motorcraft OE). Note that OE used the better/universal type in both locations. Typical cheap downstream-only sensor: Typical upstream/downstream
  14. Both of them are gonners (spring probably is broken too). Fronts are probably in the same shape. What I recommend: Front: KYB SR4033 Rear: KYB SR4034
  15. Did the technical inspection. Failed at first because of the switchback LED's (amber/white). I found out now that, in VA, if you can see the light from the side of the car, it cannot be white. My old 96 Sable had two different lights for front/side markers, but the 2001 Sable has just one bulb, visible from front and side. Grrr, removed the LED's, put back the stupid 3457NA bulbs. I didn't get stopped or a ticket because, in VA, lighting system non-compliance is not a primary offence, basically you can drive with the lights off at night and they won't stop you! Stupidity!
  16. SoNic

    OD OFF

    If you have a laptop with bluetooth get the Windows one. Also, the OBDII reader - avoid any that says "Version 2.1" - they are not working with Ford protocol anymore (tried two of them). I have bought three "Version 1.5" and they are the only ones that work.
  17. I feel so bad that I don't post here anymore. But my Sable Wagon (Duratec) just didn't need anything anymore for almost a year now. Just an oil change, gas and wiper fluid... I will need new tires soon probably. That's a good commuter car, for 120 miles daily, in summer heat, 30% of distance with an average 5mph stop-and-go traffic.
  18. SoNic

    OD OFF

    The VSS controls the shifting points, so yes, that would affect transmission. OD blinking denotes a transmission code but normal readers won't read that. I was able to read transmission codes with the free Forscan software and a bluetooth OBDII adapter from eBay - careful though, some are not compatible with Ford's protocol!
  19. That's very cool. I have a question: "Mustang Dual Piston Front Calipers & Rotors"... I want that on my 2001 Sable too. Are the rotors re-drilled for the different bolt spacing? What brackets fit between caliper and car?
  20. But when you take it out all the oil leaks on the swaybar and some wiring. Stupid.
  21. Used to live in Phoenix, worked in Chandler. Lots of fun things to do there, I miss it... Good luck. PS: Snowbowl Mountain has show in winter if you feel homesick.
  22. It's like a reset in the radio not working... and the shock/vibration makes a contact somewhere in that reset circuit. Because once the audio starts correctly, no matter what I do, it won't interrupt or have any glitch. And it happens only when starting the car, never if the car is already running.
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