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SoNic

Centennial Member
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Everything posted by SoNic

  1. I don't like the spark plugs that need to be gapped after a measly 90k miles Seriously now, probably I will try either Autolite Iridium (XP104) or NGK Laser Iridium (ITR5F13) next.
  2. At any given moment, the spark is between the center an only one electrodes - the closest one (even if by a minute ammount). But when that side electrode wears a little, increasing the distance, the spark "jumps" the the next closest one. In this way, in time, all the side electrodes see equal "action". On Vulcan thou, I heard that, because of the internal cofiguration of the ignition chamber (low turbulence?), those spark plugs don't work well - too much shielding of the arc I guess?
  3. Winning combination - cold engine, cold(er) weather (50F). Picture of my Bosh 4505 (Platinum IR Fusion) spark plug with 97k miles in the Ford Duratec 3.0L:
  4. Probably if you add a couple headlights and stoplights, a horn, some winshield wipers, you could drive it SC. Not so much in other places that have things like "annual car inspections" and/or "emissions tests". And mandatory liability car insurace.
  5. True, didn't know better and I have bought a vehicle that was first registered in Michigan. And those half-tread Motorcraft plugs didn't help either (allowed biding rust). But aluminium tends to deform (plastic) easier than steel and that's what I am afraid of. I will try with the cold engine tommorow - with the engine warm they didn't budge. PS: Just for fun, see below what I had to deal with.
  6. I was using a 12" straight extension. Engine warm, not hot. I am scared to put more umph into the rachet. The plugs that I broke in Explorer didn't broke primarely from insulator. The hexagon sheared off from the threaded part that goes into the head. What that happens sometimes the insulator breaks too, but I had one intact insulator coming out (sorry, didn't took a pic of that, I was pissed). Bad memories:
  7. Two weeks ago, I did see in the main shop (of a generators manufacturer company) a real DeLorean. Shiny stainless steel body! Didn't have a decent camera with me (my phone is a retarded type one).
  8. That's why I asked too - I was not sure if the dilatation enlarges the "hole" in the aluminium heads or makes it smaller. I will try with the engine cold too - a wave of cold air is headed this way tonight
  9. I might have to bite the bullet and, in th espring, get ready to take the valve covers off in order to use a easy-off on heads - if I break the plugs. Don't feel like doing it in the winter thoug
  10. They are stuck. With a 18" rachet and "normal" amounts of force are not moving... I have bad memories from the Explorer spark plugs - that I broke off the hex using a breaker bar The engine is still runnig good with them so I'm almost at the point - screw it, they stay there till the engine dies.
  11. Ok, I have a feeling that I did procrastinate too long and I need to get to replace the spark plugs in my Duratec. I did install Bosch Platinum 4+ at 85k miles a few years ago and now I am at 179k miles. Back then, I didn't pay too much attention, and being my first aluminium head engine (with tappered seats too) I might overtoqued them in. Before I go ballistic and breake them - is it better to have the engine warm before that? I figure that the aluminium block will expand more than the plugs?
  12. Photo critique: next time don't stick your subject in the center of frame, use the rule of thirds
  13. I finally did install the auto-dimming mirror that I got from Sean T. in place of my busted old one. New one is GNTX-177. I did connect it on right pillar on a 4 pole connector that had switched +12V and ground. Switched +12V (via power saver relay) was not used by the connector that is plugged in, but was nice that Ford run one wire all the way up there (together with ground, constant +12V and "door open" wire). For future reference - on mirror connector Pin 1 was +12V, Pin 2 was for ground while "reverse" (to cancel dimming - didn't use it, isolate it), Pin 3 was for ground (black wire).
  14. Weller is a good brand too. I never used the thermo-regulated stations, only the simple ones. The power of the iron dictates the biggest size of the solder you can make. 40W for medium electric wiring, 25W for small electronic parts. Use flux paste (zinc chloride based) for bigger parts, rosin for smaller (is less corosive). Good solder wire usually has also rosin in the middle. Both flux and rosin it will release some gases during soldering, it never bothered me. Rosin smells nicer. Something cheaper (40W): http://www.amazon.co...4839357&sr=1-11
  15. Well, you care about the passanger, you pay Some would save money and get just one seat done... Ask the dealer how much it is, I am curious...
  16. Ah, the title is misleading. I was expecting other revelations
  17. I got almost half day off. Like 3 hours!
  18. There are aftermarket seat heaters available.Don't want to advertise, but for example, Google shows this: http://www.heatedseatkits.com/
  19. Duratec engine (24 Valves)? How many miles? The original recomandations for that engine were 10W-30. Because of new fuel efficiency standards, Ford lowered that to 5W-20. Personally I don't think they change nothing in the engine, so basically they pass the federal standards based on increasing wear on their clients engines. To protect at start-ups and in low temperatures you need to go as low as possible with the first number. 5W is good if it comes from a syntethic oil. 0W syntethic would be even better. The standard oils will have to be additivated so much to get there, that at 2000 miles
  20. I did kill the Assasin chick in the shack. Got her weapon and clothes and released the captives. Curious, nobody harassed me for that yet.
  21. Skyrim.... glorious waste of our lives. Like the Fallout 3 (that is the game ideea and engine source). Need help.
  22. Did you check the fluid level? Read the manual how to read it right.
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