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Everything posted by SoNic

  1. I am on the map - lonely in the whole VA Where's my tux?
  2. My experience is that every time you install a new belt, it might "pull" harder on the existing components. Look at the belt tensioner mark - where is settling with the new belt? This is how I blew one water pump and one alternator - in two different cars. It's nothing you can do about it, the bearings that "give" were worn and needed to be replaced anyway. But once you fix all those, you don't have to worry about them for 100k miles. A "new" old car, that was neglected will have lots of those incidents at the beginning. After a while it will become more and more reliable (if fixed corectly)
  3. Wow, GE Nighthawk Platinum have an instant rebate on amazon - buy one get one free... At $40 for two packs of two. Too bad i just replaced the lights on my Explorer (same 9007 as the Sable), it would be a good buy.Maybe I will get some spare H7 for my wife Sonata (can combine the rebate for any Platinums).
  4. I did use AutoRX too... Pricey but it did a great job. Cheaper version is to use diesel oil for a change - it has extra detergents in it. You would have to go for 5W40 thou (I like Shell Rotella T6), because that's what they have. For extended oil changes, you need filters that won't fill up quickly and go in bypass. Filters with media that won't get punctured after 4000 miles. Motorcraft one is not that great at holding capacity. You would need something like K&N, Mobile1 or Bosch DistancePlus. They are more expensive, but when you keep them longer, the cost per mile is not that outrage
  5. The relative position between th evane (flag) and notch in th ebody gives the ignition timing - the spark "advance" if you want. In the old carburated engines, there it used to be the distribuitor cap and the contact for ignition. Timing was adjustable by rotating that assambly by hand followed by bolting down of the holding clamp. The new PCM-controlled cars maintained the same gears - they drive the oil pump below with the hex at the end of syncronizer. In my case (Explorer engine, almost identical syncronizer), I just took a picture of the syncronizer when I removed the sensor and install
  6. I am using syntetic in my 178k miles Duratec. I do use cheaper Wallmart or AAP house brands 5W-30. In the Explorer I use Shell Rotella T6 (5w40). And a quote from "The Motor Oil Bible" eBook Copyright 2000 Michael Kaufman: "As a side note, you can determine if your oil is bypassing your oil filter (it's full) by touching your filter after at least 45 minutes to an hour's worth of driving. If the filter is hot, you're probably in good shape. If it's not, the oil is likely bypassing the filter, and it is time for a change."
  7. I would add that for extended change oil intervals Mobil1, K&N and Bosch Distance Plus are recommended due to syntetic filter media - better than paper (lasts longer).Use those since I switched to syntetic oil. Some tests on Bosch D+ and PureOne: http://www.bobistheo...537#Post1865537 For the normal lenght oil changes I use Purolator PureOne (mainly) or Motorcraft. PS: Another good read: http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom7.shtml
  8. Dang it... I wanted to trade my 15s Well, more junk yard runs for me
  9. What kind of rims do you have?16"?
  10. I did try some "blue light" bulbs once and they sucked big time. That is: sucked power and didn't deliver light... I am using now Philips X-treme Power and they are perfect. $27 for a pair delivered.
  11. Well my thinking is that the higer octane gasoline has more of the light fractions, that evaporate faster. On partially closed throttle (vacuum), it doesn't matter, because all the fractions are vaporizing perfect. On open throttle (less vacuum), the heavy fractions stay liquid and they don't burn, they just get spewed out. That's why at heavy acceleration (open throttle), the mixture is programmed in PCM to be more "rich" - to compensate for the unburned fractions. I am hoping that on mostly stop-and-go traffic, or with a driving style more agressive (can't stand the people that in leftmost
  12. I saw in the schematics of 96 Duratec, an "octane plug". Is that something that if I disconnect it will optimize the PCM for higher octane? Where is located? I am trying to see if the gas milage would be better with higher octane gasoline (for my style of driving, let's say "spirited")... Ideea is that at quick accelarations, the higher octane gas will burn more complete than the lower octane gas. If is enough driving in city, it might be better to use higer octane. I am planning to run some tests, but I need to know what that plug does.
  13. Probably the coil and wires are OK, you need to replace just the spark plugs. I recomend some iridium ones from Autolite or NGK. I just installed NGK Iridium Laser, after almost 100k miles from the old ones, and they did make a difference!
  14. Ah, OK, I guess I was confusing it with the Explorer fuses...
  15. From what I know, the Keep Alive circuit is on the horn circuit. If horn is not working, KA memory is not maintained. Fuse #19 in the engine compartment.
  16. ^ Probably you don't have a functional horn either? There are sharing the same fuse...
  17. How did you remember the license plate? Dude, you are something else!
  18. Why people choose to live there in freezeyourbutlandia?
  19. Time for winter rated tires? Oh, wait, too late... LE: Been there, done that. Hit the curb sideways at 15mph, with the right wheel. Damaged the wheel, bearings and axle. Differential noise in the transmission. Donated that vehicle (older Ford Escort).
  20. My stock wires have 1.4V voltage drop with normal lights on. Due to the non-linear dependence of light output with the voltage, that -10% in voltage translates in some -30% in light. Yes, a harness makes a difference. The X-treme Power bulbs from Philips are a cheap way to get better light, staying in the legal area. With enhanced harness, their life is short, but with the voltage drop on stock harness, they last OK (and provide just "normal" light).
  21. I hate all the "plug and blind people" HID kits. None of the cheap ones is proper designed to avoid glare. None of them are adjusted properly for the new patern, like a factory HID. None of the users that install those illegal devices give a crap about others on the road. It's all good... PS: Too bad that cops are busy eating donoughts and playing with their radar guns. I seldom see anybody stoped for a traffic violation, except the sure money-maker - speeding.
  22. Actually the code means that there is a problem with the purge valve. Opening and draining manually the canister does not solve anything, problem will reapear when the canister is full. Quote from here:
  23. All of them in, engine purs like a kitty, nicest idle that I had in a while. One spark plug well had a boat load of oil in it I did tighten a little more the valve cover screws, hope it will help.
  24. My Explorer (pic above) takes, in the V8 5.0L, the same plugs like the ones in the Duratec V6 3.0L. I have now there the Autolite Iridium XP. They run fine, I was just worried about the fact that the ground strap is "normal". NGK has the Iridium IX that are similar and Laser Iridium that have a disc of platinum welded on the ground strap. I kind of like that ideaa better for my Fords that have the "wasted spark" system (not COP). Autolite XP has a "platinum sidewire" for same reason. But then... those NGK iridium are not advertised as "finewire 0.6mm" like the IX (and Autolite XP). I cannot b
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