SoNic

I've replaced the front driver side caliper. During braking the pedal was feeling a bit "mushy", kept going in if pressed harder. On examination of brake pads, the one by cylinder was much more worn that the floating one. Bleed the new caliper with a 2' clear silicone hose (1/4" interior diameter) with the end drooped inside an empty bottle of water. The brake fluid on bottom of bottle prevents air to get sucked back in. New pads and discs too, beded in. Success.

My '96 Sable was the DOHC engine with AX4N transmission. As you see I still have a 2001 Sable, same engine/transmission. Did you add the supplemental GM/Ford PID's in Torque? Those are free to add. Settings>Manage extra PID's/Sensors>click the ...>Add predefined set.

I know this is late posting, but my 1996 Sable had transmission temperature available via Torque app. Same with the 2001 Ford Explorer and 2001 Mercury Sable. Also Forscan can be used to see and test all the modules.

Anyone?

My 2001 Sable Wagon was passed to my 17 yr daughter. The comment was that is long, but it moves faster than the 2000 Sonata that she learned to drive on. That Sonata is on the verge of being "let go" to greener pastures.

I have downloaded in the past diagrams for my vehicles from a certain site that was posted around here arrc.ebscohost.com. Well, I have a new car (2011 Toyota RAV4), but that site won't work anymore. Any alternatives?

By the time you spend get to the said alternator you will wish you got a new, lifetime warranty one. Advance Auto Parts sells those for a small premium. Use Retailmenot to get a coupon, order the alternator online, apply code and go pick it up in the store (not the shipping). PS: The Taurus/Sable came with two different engines, both 3.0 L. You will need to know which one you have when order the alternator. VIN 8th digit helps. Example: S for DOHC.

And $90 later...

They're like $55-130! Oh, well...

Does anyone know where I can get a cheap fog light housing for my 2001 Mercury Sable? It lost a fight with a pebble 😥

Thank you all for the responses. I have replaced the LCA's (MEVOTECH "Supreme") and ball joints (Motorcraft) and did go to shop for an alignment. Nice contrast with the rusty subframe...

The control arm bushings are shot too. So I have ordered the whole LCA's too.

Thank you all. I agree, McPherson front suspension is a cheap, light, and prone to generate issues in long term. Although I have replaced completely the front struts (three years ago), it's still not right. A true double wishbone style suspension is more robust in the long run. My Hyundai cars (Sonata and XG350) and of course the Ford Explorer have the double control arms and... they just stay aligned. Before I attempt any alignment, I have ordered the front lower ball joints (well, the are the only ball joints on front with McPherson), and I will have them replaced.

A few year back (2-3?) I have replaced the front struts with KYB Strut Plus assemblies (spring+shock). I had new tires. The newer struts are much more stiffer than the ones that where on the car... but I can't tell if they are stiffer than a new car because I never had one. Well, now, the inner part of front tires is worn badly. The car drives straight, so I assume it is because of camber angles. This is how the top of the towers look like - to me it seems that they are already "pushed" to the max. Is there a solution?