TaurusKev

zenriddles, how would we attract them? I haven't the slightest clue!!! Jeff, I agree, and yeah, I think it was more of a soft transition. The forum had so many issues, I volunteered to fix them (Registration problem for example) so Sean said I should be the new president. I do like that our community isn't a harsh community. I have been on other sites that get harsh when a member "leaves" the community by buying a different car. I've always been under the impression - If you take care of your car, and you take pride in it, I can respect it for what it is. SoNic - That's exactly the thing I am afraid of is the forum is a dying medium. Sites like FaceBook do make it easy... People subscribe to things they "like" but finding information is so hard on there. I know TSOC has a FaceBook page, but I have no idea how to run the thing lol. While I love the Taurus/Sable Wagons, they are generally rotted out here, or will rot out here due to design from the salt in IL. Makes servicing them a pain, and I am getting to the stage in life where I don't want repairs to take forever. With our community being accepting of other make/models, that's why I figured a general car club could maybe bring others back, or invite new people over. The other reason people generally joined car forums was for repairs, however, youtube has a wide variety of videos that people may just go to the Youtube page for help. Again, another example of social media replacing the days of the tired forums.

Hi TSOC Members! Since I have inherited this forum from Sean, I have fixed the registration issue, and that was basically it. I am sorry. A lot of us Taurus and Sable owners have seemed to move on to other make and models. (Devin - Dodge, Sean - Honda, Me - Pontiac/Toyota, Buick) However, that being said, this forum also has shown a decline in population. I am not sure what to do. This forum has always been (Or should be...) an ad-free environment. Donations welcome to keep the lights running. I haven't checked to see how we look for finances either because it looks weird, so I need to work with Sean on that. That being said... I would like the community's feedback on what we can do. I thought about what if we just turned this forum into a car enthusiast forum. I know there are plenty of those that exist, but hey, what's one more, right? There are knowledgeable people on the forums, and there is good content already on our forum. Perhaps welcoming everyone in, regardless of what they drive, just as long as they take pride in their ride, could bring life back? I've also heard from others, do nothing. The Taurus/Sable nameplate didn't seem to gain traction with the car's reboot, and people (like me) are preferring cars with liftgates, not trunks. Many Taurus/Sable owners are getting rid of their cars, which is either they wanted something better, or the car was in poor health due to rust, mechanical operation, or other reasons where the car wasn't worth keeping. These cars then end up sold cheap to others, or traded in and auctioned off to buy-here/pay-here lots who sell them to people who have no credit, only to wreck the cars from there. The Tauruses that people cared about are the SHO's, and there is a dedicated forum for SHO Owners. Not much love for Vulcan, Essex, or Duratec Powered Taurus/Sables, and little interest in the rebooted Taurus that was discontinued again. And with that being said, that'd mean letting the forum die off as the lights are based off community donations, not advertisements. If we don't get enough in donations, can't afford to pay for Hosting, Domain, and the Forum Software (Invision). I'd hate to see that happen as there are a lot of great people on the forum, but forums seem to be a thing of the past. People prefer FaceBook or Instagram. While useful, today's social media sites make it hard to find useful information with tons of ads everywhere. I'm inviting all members of the community to weigh in. If you have good ideas, I could use your help. I inherited the forum when I became a full time college student, and honestly, I suck when it comes to creativity. I am open to any ideas and creativity from our members. For those who have great ideas - Positions of Moderators available!

Hey all. Since I got rid of my 1995 Taurus Wagon due to the severe rust... I want stuff cleaned out. I have the Vulcan V6 and AX4N in my backyard (All sitting on the subframe). It is free for anyone who has a way to get it out of my backyard. However, it has been sitting forever, so condition is unknown. At first I could not rotate the engine, but now it rotates just fine. It had around 101k miles if I recall, it has been sitting in my backyard since 2016 I believe, under a tarp. Location is in Streamwood, Illinois.

Rust repair is a hard thing. The cheaper shop may be cutting out the bad rockers, and putting new ones in, and they may or may not have problems. I did this to my Thunderbird WITH paint repair of the whole body, it cost me around $5500. Best thing is to ask to see any completed vehicles they have, or see if there are reviews posted online for them. Some body shops may have it down to a science that they are cheap. Others may not, so not sure what the pricing difference would be.

Photobucket did screw some stuff up sadly. I wrote this so long ago and I am trying to find the original pictures and writeup, but have been unsuccessful so far. If you are confused about a part let me know, and perhaps I can try to explain it!

For those interested, I decided I would port over my writeup on EATC to this forum. I put a lot of hard work, research, and effort into this mod, and I hope those interested in doing the same, are able to with my writeup. So first off, here are things to consider: Note: All information provided in this thread may be reposted only if providing a source link to this page, and giving credit to me, the Author, and may only be used for non-profit, not for commercial gain. So first off, here are things to consider: There are two generations of EATC for the fourth generation Taurus. The installation I will be doing is from a 2000-2003. The 2004-2007 is similar, but untested. In theory that should work. Differences were stated that on a 2000-2003, you have Outside Temperature and Max A/C. The 2004-2007 replaced this with Recirculate air, and just normal A/C. Outside temperature on an 04-07 was done solely by the instrument cluster, and they do not talk to each other. DISCLAIMER!!!!! You will be messing with electrical circuits, which if shorted CAN cause shorts, and could ruin components, or cause fire if fuse doesn’t blow, therefore unplug the negative battery cable. You also will have to remove your passenger airbag, airbags can detonate with enough force to dismember stuff. Unplug your battery for at least 30 minutes to fully discharge the car for safety. Ford recommends 1 minute, I recommend 30 just to be safe. Use extreme care when removing the airbag and handing the airbag. This writeup assumes you have at least an Intermediate to expert skill in wiring, that you know how to splice, solder (if preferred), using electrical tape, electrical safety, and how to depin wires from Ford Wiring harnesses. There are other write-ups that explain how to depin somewhere, and it’s not hard. Wiring I can’t teach you. If you do not feel comfortable wiring, or confident, then I would not recommend this to you. This writeup also assumes you harvest the necessary parts from a junkyard. I strongly advice taking all the bolts from the junkyard to bolt it into your Taurus/Sable. So for this mod, you will need to obtain the following: Remote Climate Control module (RCC) Temperature Blend door actuator, this is black, the manual one is white. They are not interchangable. Blower Motor Speed Control Wiring ICP from the generation you intend to install on. I made a hybrid. You DO NOT NEED TO THIS! If you have a 2004-2007, you can probably suffice by doing the airbag light mod. But you lose the Passenger Airbag Light Off Display Sunload Sensor (Best to do the Autolamps mod too if you are going to do this ) The vacuum tubes to control the vents that goto the RCC The Vacuum tube and plug that goes to the In-vehicle temperature sensor to the blower motor box below passenger airbag OAT Sensor behind grill. The wires prior to install: I harvested all the wires, but really, I could have just cut about a few feet and yanked it out. There are a lot of wires here, but some are not used, because it goes from RCC to Temperature blend door, or blower motor speed control. On my setup, there was two wires at the end of the harness that went to a sensor for the A/C, I did not use that, because the Gen4.5 already had that wired, and that went to the PCM. I added some labels to the picture with Photobucket, I’ll describe each part here, take note for I will refer to this image numerous times throughout the article: A is the harness that has all the wires you need to add with 16 wires. You will be adding most of those. A few I did not use because they aren’t important. B is easy, because you don’t need to add anything here. It’s ready to go. Attached to B: D E and F. D goes to the RCC, the heart of EATC. E goes to the Temperature Blend door. F is not used for me, for it is for the EVAP Discharge air temp sensor. Which plugs directly into the PCM. I left the existing wire, so I did not have to rewire something. So that subtracts 2 wires from the 16 total wires you need to add in A. In A: There is C. Which goes to the blower motor, this is attached to the A side. On C, there is a big Pink/White wire, you won’t need it, for the existing setup with Manual HVAC has it. It’s the power to power blower motor, which should already exist, and you will depin it from there, and put it in where it was from the donor car. There are two other wires I did not add, and that is the two wires that goto the OBD for the ability to use a computer to pull diagnostic codes. So now you are down from 14 to 12. If you harvest the harness as a whole, it should also include the wires that goto the In-vehicle temp sensor, so that’s only 10 wires you need to connect. Ground that I separated with the ring, attached behind ICP on right side How I started this project was to run 2 wires from the passenger compartment to the engine bay. On my Taurus, behind the Cruise control module is a grommet I used to add wires. The only two you have to run to engine bay for OAT. I used my own wiring, used two colors so I did not confuse myself. Just remember where you plug them into with the OAT sensor behind the grill. I used a coat hanger to fish wires from one side to the other above the radiator fan support. Leave wires on the floor for now, not time to wire stuff in. You got one other project to do. That is to add a tube from the blower motor box so it can get a vacuum (confirmed, this is a vacuum tube that measures in vehicle temperature, as it forces air to gently suck into the sensor) First you have to remove your passenger airbag. Remove the glove box, by removing 3 bolts on the underside, remove the trim plastic under the glovebox that expose your blower motor (For later) and the airbag unbolts by 2 big heavily tightened bolts. Once they are removed, gently rock the airbag out, then unplug the harness going to the airbag, and place airbag in a safe place facing up. If you did the removal of parts from a junkyard, this is the tube you need to add: On the Non-EATC cars, that is just solid plastic with writing on it. I used a dremel, and just cut by eye the hole until it fit correctly. Then used a screw with a sharp point to screw it into place. On my dremel, I used a thin drill bit, I did this without removing my dash, just requires some skill, start the hole, then you should be able to get an average dremel into the space the airbag would be in, then do the cutting. Completed looks like this: Note: The White vacuum hose goes on the piece facing up, the piece sticking straight out is just a relief, otherwise the In-vehicle temp sensor would be sucking a ton of air. It sucks enough to get a sample reading. Next step! Run the new vacuum lines! Biggest pain in the ass if you ask me, because two modules are behind the dash in the center. This is good to have skinny hands. There are 5 Vacuum lines: Yellow: Defrost door, Blue: Panel/Floor door, Black: Source Vacuum (Goes into engine bay, accessed in the airbag space. White: Air Inlet door (Recirc/max AC), Red: Panel/floor door. Red and blue are hardest ones. If you have adapters, you COULD splice existing vacuum tubes, and get a male to male vacuum tube adapter to connect them. I chose not to, since I didn’t feel like running to AutoZone to see if they had the right size adapters. Vacuum pics: Yellow: White: (Behind passenger airbag) Red and Blue: Behind dash, accessible on driver side floor, to the right of the accelerator linkage.

Congrats!!

I am pretty sure that the 1999 did not support trans temp as OBD-II in those days were primitive.

I have that same problem with motivation too. The Roadmaster wagon has some small leaks still, but compared to the last ones I did fix, they are much more tame now.

Need to drive it more.

Sadly I don't think many of the Gen 5's are being parted out on forums. I'd suggest checking places like car-part.com to find a salvage yard close by to see if they have a good interior to harvest from.

Yeah, I'd recommend trying to find a salvage yard one. Sometimes having a They-Pull such as LKQ can hopefully ensure the compressor came from a car that was holding pressure. Lots of After-Cheezy parts that you'll just be replacing the compressor again, or finding a faulty compressor. Like Kodachrome Wolf stated, they're sometimes cheap for a reason... Unless you get lucky and someone has stock of genuine Motorcraft and just want them gone lol.

Terrible... Terrible news... Maybe we should turn this into the Honda Odyssey forum for you.

Can it... Can it be given to TSOC? A non profit Taurus and Sable owners group? I would love to have that thing, give it a proper home.

Oh wow, IN the rails. That sounds like fun. Glad you got it handled!

I fixed the Mitsubishi Endeavor's bladder problem. Normally, people freak out about seeing a puddle under their car, but I was happy, since this puddle was from the A/C's condensate drain. The Endeavor's drain has the same issue of having a cheap gasket between the firewall and A/C Box, and as water dribbles out, it dribbles down, and goes right back into the cabin, and flooding the carpet. Same issue the Taurus and Sable had! But this time, the Mits folks had a fix. Solution was to make a new condensate drain, and that it leaves the cabin completely. Went to Menards and found a 3/8 to 1/2 Adapter, I cut off the 1/2 part, and had some old 3/8 Tubing, made it flat, then cut a hole on the bottom of the A/C's drain, plugged the old hole up with silicone, and now the new drain works great. Drilled a hole straight down the tunnel, away from the prop shaft, and zip tied it to the frame neatly so it's not a problem no more. I gotta say, one pro to drive by wire, pulled the accelerator pedal out and was able to work comfortably. Thankfully, since the A/C didn't work for about 2 to 3 years, forgot how long I've owned this beauty, but assuming it was a problem with the previous owner too as there was a bit of rust, but nothing terrible. I treated it with naval jelly, then sprayed it with undercoating, including the hole I drilled to ensure that doesn't rust up. So now fully functional A/C, and the drain should be fixed to not flood my car no more. This may work on the Taurus if someone wants to repeat it. Might look into it on the Roadmaster as it also has condensate issues. Why didn't all cars just do this method...

Just a hypothesis, but the steering wheel from a Crown Vic/Grand Marquis has the controls, not sure about fitment, but I at least theorized that Ford's controls were pretty standard across the board and should control the applications of the car. I never went further with this since I sold my Taurus. Would need to do a lot of modifications to do it.

I have not, but if it is running rich, and you only cleaned your MAF, unhook your MAF and see if it behaves differently. Also, what are your Check engine code stating?

That Forscan is awesome. Brian did it to my mom's Fusion SE. Was able to add the digital speedometer readout, and the detailed tire TPMS details. Before the Fusion only had an idiot light for low tire pressure. My mom (and I) when she bought her 2015 Fusion, we assumed that like most new cars, it had individual readouts fore the tire pressure, like my grandpa's 2012 Impala. Well, now she has both those enabled, and makes the car enjoyable. I have no need for a Forscan utility since all my junk is too old to utilize it

That is right!!!! I forgot that some Tauruses had their CD Changers up front.

Hmm, that is odd. Sadly I am not sure. I'd have to goto a junkyard and seek out another Taurus with a floor shifter and rip it apart to see.

I would assume that plugs in to the actual shifter for lights, no? Hard to tell.

The Gen 2 I did get running, but I donated it to a high school. It was too rusted I miss it, but, the rust took it away. I am sure it's been beaten up by a bunch of high schoolers, but maybe helped 1 or 2 students learn how to work on cars.

Brakes are overrated! Just hit a tree to stop!!!!

I agree. Too many computer displays on cars. I used to like them, but now they're more of a pain in the ass. My mom still can't figure out her trip odometer in her 2015 Ford Fusion. The more things get complicated, the more I miss good simplicity. Last night my stereo in my Vibe took a shit. I took it apart, and was shocked at how minimal it was... There really isn't anything to this stereo... I did fix it by resoldering it as betting one of the cold solder joints broke apart from vibration, but just shocked at how minimal it is. If it dies again, I'll try to find a Pontiac Monsoon radio with a burnt out display and replace the bulbs. Really don't need all those fancy features, I just want a damn working stereo. Oh, and the CD player is broken. I never used it before in the Vibe. Really disappointed in how cheap/shitty Pioneer has gone. We need a modern day Zenith, where the quality goes in before the name goes on.