TaurusKev

Congrats!!

I am pretty sure that the 1999 did not support trans temp as OBD-II in those days were primitive.

I have that same problem with motivation too. The Roadmaster wagon has some small leaks still, but compared to the last ones I did fix, they are much more tame now.

Need to drive it more.

Sadly I don't think many of the Gen 5's are being parted out on forums. I'd suggest checking places like car-part.com to find a salvage yard close by to see if they have a good interior to harvest from.

Yeah, I'd recommend trying to find a salvage yard one. Sometimes having a They-Pull such as LKQ can hopefully ensure the compressor came from a car that was holding pressure. Lots of After-Cheezy parts that you'll just be replacing the compressor again, or finding a faulty compressor. Like Kodachrome Wolf stated, they're sometimes cheap for a reason... Unless you get lucky and someone has stock of genuine Motorcraft and just want them gone lol.

Terrible... Terrible news... Maybe we should turn this into the Honda Odyssey forum for you.

Can it... Can it be given to TSOC? A non profit Taurus and Sable owners group? I would love to have that thing, give it a proper home.

Oh wow, IN the rails. That sounds like fun. Glad you got it handled!

I fixed the Mitsubishi Endeavor's bladder problem. Normally, people freak out about seeing a puddle under their car, but I was happy, since this puddle was from the A/C's condensate drain. The Endeavor's drain has the same issue of having a cheap gasket between the firewall and A/C Box, and as water dribbles out, it dribbles down, and goes right back into the cabin, and flooding the carpet. Same issue the Taurus and Sable had! But this time, the Mits folks had a fix. Solution was to make a new condensate drain, and that it leaves the cabin completely. Went to Menards and found a 3/8 to 1/2 Adapter, I cut off the 1/2 part, and had some old 3/8 Tubing, made it flat, then cut a hole on the bottom of the A/C's drain, plugged the old hole up with silicone, and now the new drain works great. Drilled a hole straight down the tunnel, away from the prop shaft, and zip tied it to the frame neatly so it's not a problem no more. I gotta say, one pro to drive by wire, pulled the accelerator pedal out and was able to work comfortably. Thankfully, since the A/C didn't work for about 2 to 3 years, forgot how long I've owned this beauty, but assuming it was a problem with the previous owner too as there was a bit of rust, but nothing terrible. I treated it with naval jelly, then sprayed it with undercoating, including the hole I drilled to ensure that doesn't rust up. So now fully functional A/C, and the drain should be fixed to not flood my car no more. This may work on the Taurus if someone wants to repeat it. Might look into it on the Roadmaster as it also has condensate issues. Why didn't all cars just do this method...

Just a hypothesis, but the steering wheel from a Crown Vic/Grand Marquis has the controls, not sure about fitment, but I at least theorized that Ford's controls were pretty standard across the board and should control the applications of the car. I never went further with this since I sold my Taurus. Would need to do a lot of modifications to do it.

I have not, but if it is running rich, and you only cleaned your MAF, unhook your MAF and see if it behaves differently. Also, what are your Check engine code stating?

That Forscan is awesome. Brian did it to my mom's Fusion SE. Was able to add the digital speedometer readout, and the detailed tire TPMS details. Before the Fusion only had an idiot light for low tire pressure. My mom (and I) when she bought her 2015 Fusion, we assumed that like most new cars, it had individual readouts fore the tire pressure, like my grandpa's 2012 Impala. Well, now she has both those enabled, and makes the car enjoyable. I have no need for a Forscan utility since all my junk is too old to utilize it

That is right!!!! I forgot that some Tauruses had their CD Changers up front.

Hmm, that is odd. Sadly I am not sure. I'd have to goto a junkyard and seek out another Taurus with a floor shifter and rip it apart to see.

I would assume that plugs in to the actual shifter for lights, no? Hard to tell.

The Gen 2 I did get running, but I donated it to a high school. It was too rusted I miss it, but, the rust took it away. I am sure it's been beaten up by a bunch of high schoolers, but maybe helped 1 or 2 students learn how to work on cars.

Brakes are overrated! Just hit a tree to stop!!!!

I agree. Too many computer displays on cars. I used to like them, but now they're more of a pain in the ass. My mom still can't figure out her trip odometer in her 2015 Ford Fusion. The more things get complicated, the more I miss good simplicity. Last night my stereo in my Vibe took a shit. I took it apart, and was shocked at how minimal it was... There really isn't anything to this stereo... I did fix it by resoldering it as betting one of the cold solder joints broke apart from vibration, but just shocked at how minimal it is. If it dies again, I'll try to find a Pontiac Monsoon radio with a burnt out display and replace the bulbs. Really don't need all those fancy features, I just want a damn working stereo. Oh, and the CD player is broken. I never used it before in the Vibe. Really disappointed in how cheap/shitty Pioneer has gone. We need a modern day Zenith, where the quality goes in before the name goes on.

Did the timing belt on the Honda Accord. Once I got everything out of the way (Power steering pump, engine mount, crankshaft pulley...) the job wasn't bad. Getting that crankshaft bolt out... That was a nasty chore. The impact gun could not get it off after trying, and even getting a better impact gun as the one I was using felt tired anyway as it couldn't even remove a lug nut. New one, it had no issues removing lug nuts, but that crank pulley? Found out Honda has a special tool to help keep the pulley stationary, then to remove the bolt, back is hating me now. To simplify the belt install, I made markings on the old belt and pulley markings, removed old belt, transferred over markings to new belt, and simply ensured all 3 points lined up. Still got a full tuneup, find out which CV Halfshaft is bad, then just do a fluid change on everything.

Ouch, I am sorry to hear that Chart, glad you are at least ok.

Nope, there is a separate Check Engine light, and it was burnt out. I ordered a few bulbs to replace the smaller burnt out bulbs, but this is what it looks like now: I find it cool that Honda put some lights above for a nice glow above: (This was bench tested, not installed in car) But the weirdest part, these look like Ford Part Numbers: Doing a quick search for a Ford cluster, I was right: Same style and everything

I got a project car! For my brother in law though, he bought this off his brother in law for dirt cheap, needs work, and I told him I could do it. 1998 Honda Accord, 3.0L V6, pretty damn rough, but has plenty of potential! Got into a small accident awhile back, thus they decided to just get rid of it. It's all purely cosmetic, so I might either try to straighten it out, or just find an Accord from a junkyard and fix it up. Owner had it for over 10 years before he sold it to my brother in law who needs a cheap car for commuting to and from school. Things this piece of shit needs: Timing Belt Clunking noise from CV Halfshaft when turning, so one of them sounds bad Full tuneup One of the valve covers appears to be leaking oil Maintenance Required light is on, I think for Hondas that just means it needed an oil change? This will be the first Honda I truly get my hands dirty on. Seems only 1 or 2 light bulbs remain in the instrument cluster at night, and can barely read the speedometer And possibly more, but the above should make it reliable. When I got it, the HVAC controls had no knobs, so yesterday, was at the yard and grabbed them. I am trying to minimize the amounts of times I start this car since I have no idea how old the timing belt is, but I decided to see if AC worked since it had an accident. HVAC panel was dead, only the blower worked. Apparently a common failure on Hondas, even had a coworker at Comcast who had a 2006 Civic, and his A/C button did nothing, betting similar problem. First fix on the HVAC Controller was to run a new wire: That brought it to life, but it was now flaky, and lights would flash, so I looked the board over for a good while, flexed it, noticed it worked, so I began touching up main solder points, eventually found the solder between some of the resistors on the front of the board were bad, after I resoldered those: The offending issue was a zener diode on the front, next to that open hole where the light bulb would go (R5 Resistor and the ZD1) After touching those up, the panel was reliable, I smacked it around a bit, still worked no issue. All cleaned up and ready to reinstall now. Funny how complicated a manual HVAC system is... Why manufacturers made these so complicated is beyond me. This thing has two rear plugs: the panel, then the blower motor. Makes me appreciate the Taurus's manual HVAC, very simple, 3 separate knobs for 3 separate controls, nothing fancy with them. I found a few spare of those stupid light bulbs lying around, so I was able to fix the illumination with that, but now I need to find a light bulb for the blower speed control, looks like the same one the Gen1/2 Taurus used for small illumination. This is also why I decided to fix it, this asshole wants too much for a nasty ass worn out panel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-HVAC-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-Panel-OEM/283037462212 seems faded too. Then for a "cleaner" one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-Manual-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-HVAC-OEM-AA/292639907181 Yeah, just saved $65-70 by just fixing this one, and now it hopefully will be more reliable than the others that seem to fail too.

I will look into it. Thanks!

When you have your A/C on, does it help if you give it a little gas when in the sun? Some cars I notice have crappy A/C's until they move more air. I am tempted to try something on my Pontiac since its A/C is a bit weak in the heat, whereas my Mitsubishi, it doesn't seem to discriminate, it gets cold no matter what, but it seems to have a good radiator fan that moves a lot of air.