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TaurusKev

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TaurusKev last won the day on June 30

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1081 The Chosen One

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About TaurusKev

  • Rank
    Post Whore

Profile Information

  • Actual Name
    Kevin
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Schaumburg, IL
  • Chapter
    Midwest

Car Information

  • My Car
    94 Buick Roadmaster Estate, 95 Thunderbird LX, 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor AWD, 2004 Pontiac Vibe
  • Engine
    5.7L LT1 V8, 4.6L Modular, V8, 3.8L 6G75 V6, 1.8L 1ZZ-FE I4

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  1. TaurusKev

    Charts fire

    Ouch, I am sorry to hear that Chart, glad you are at least ok.
  2. Nope, there is a separate Check Engine light, and it was burnt out. I ordered a few bulbs to replace the smaller burnt out bulbs, but this is what it looks like now: I find it cool that Honda put some lights above for a nice glow above: (This was bench tested, not installed in car) But the weirdest part, these look like Ford Part Numbers: Doing a quick search for a Ford cluster, I was right: Same style and everything
  3. I got a project car! For my brother in law though, he bought this off his brother in law for dirt cheap, needs work, and I told him I could do it. 1998 Honda Accord, 3.0L V6, pretty damn rough, but has plenty of potential! Got into a small accident awhile back, thus they decided to just get rid of it. It's all purely cosmetic, so I might either try to straighten it out, or just find an Accord from a junkyard and fix it up. Owner had it for over 10 years before he sold it to my brother in law who needs a cheap car for commuting to and from school. Things this piece of shit needs: Timing Belt Clunking noise from CV Halfshaft when turning, so one of them sounds bad Full tuneup One of the valve covers appears to be leaking oil Maintenance Required light is on, I think for Hondas that just means it needed an oil change? This will be the first Honda I truly get my hands dirty on. Seems only 1 or 2 light bulbs remain in the instrument cluster at night, and can barely read the speedometer And possibly more, but the above should make it reliable. When I got it, the HVAC controls had no knobs, so yesterday, was at the yard and grabbed them. I am trying to minimize the amounts of times I start this car since I have no idea how old the timing belt is, but I decided to see if AC worked since it had an accident. HVAC panel was dead, only the blower worked. Apparently a common failure on Hondas, even had a coworker at Comcast who had a 2006 Civic, and his A/C button did nothing, betting similar problem. First fix on the HVAC Controller was to run a new wire: That brought it to life, but it was now flaky, and lights would flash, so I looked the board over for a good while, flexed it, noticed it worked, so I began touching up main solder points, eventually found the solder between some of the resistors on the front of the board were bad, after I resoldered those: The offending issue was a zener diode on the front, next to that open hole where the light bulb would go (R5 Resistor and the ZD1) After touching those up, the panel was reliable, I smacked it around a bit, still worked no issue. All cleaned up and ready to reinstall now. Funny how complicated a manual HVAC system is... Why manufacturers made these so complicated is beyond me. This thing has two rear plugs: the panel, then the blower motor. Makes me appreciate the Taurus's manual HVAC, very simple, 3 separate knobs for 3 separate controls, nothing fancy with them. I found a few spare of those stupid light bulbs lying around, so I was able to fix the illumination with that, but now I need to find a light bulb for the blower speed control, looks like the same one the Gen1/2 Taurus used for small illumination. This is also why I decided to fix it, this asshole wants too much for a nasty ass worn out panel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-HVAC-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-Panel-OEM/283037462212 seems faded too. Then for a "cleaner" one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-Manual-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-HVAC-OEM-AA/292639907181 Yeah, just saved $65-70 by just fixing this one, and now it hopefully will be more reliable than the others that seem to fail too.
  4. TaurusKev

    Network error with Tapatalk

    I will look into it. Thanks!
  5. When you have your A/C on, does it help if you give it a little gas when in the sun? Some cars I notice have crappy A/C's until they move more air. I am tempted to try something on my Pontiac since its A/C is a bit weak in the heat, whereas my Mitsubishi, it doesn't seem to discriminate, it gets cold no matter what, but it seems to have a good radiator fan that moves a lot of air.
  6. TaurusKev

    Rust-Free 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon (Graphite Blue)

    Better be a Panther or B-Body Station Wagon!
  7. TaurusKev

    Rust-Free 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon (Graphite Blue)

    What happened? Why you selling it???
  8. TaurusKev

    Rear Passenger Window Leak

    Should be a drain on the bottom of the door, generally they are pretty flush, might have some plastic to protect it as it's only supposed to drain water. If you can open the door and take a photo of the bottom, might be able to point it out
  9. Call me crazy, but I love both those cars, I would take a Celebrity and a Taurus any day of the week The Taurus is a pain in the ass to work on, but it has character to it. Lot of things are on Youtube, and not that hard.
  10. I am hoping this is the permanent fix to this A/C in the Mitsubishi I didn't document it, but it was leaking between the line and the compressor. Compressors are expensive, and mine worked, and lines are also expensive. Upon close examination, I noticed corrosion around the surface where the O-Ring meets the line. So I think I had a similar effect as corrosion on a tire rim. I used Naval Jelly and gently worked it on the surfaces, it really cleaned up the surfaces well, then I did the same on the compressor. Then I replaced the O-Rings again, and then pulled a vacuum on the system. It held the vacuum well, even after a day it was exactly where I left it, before I used to think my cheap Harbor Freight gauges were trash, but nope, was a legitimate leak. So I filled it, and seems to be cooling nice and cold now. Mitsubishi does have a pretty amazing A/C system when it works, makes sense as they also make HVAC systems as well. Better than the Pontiac's A/C, which I'll have to look at and see if it's just low on charge. The next big thing is to fix the EVAP leak as emissions is due August...
  11. TaurusKev

    Sable won't start

    Based on power distribution, I only see that fuse feeding the Transmission Range sensor/Starter circuit. That's why if the fuse is blowing, I'd be wondering if there is an internal short or high resistance through the trans/neutral switch sensor.
  12. TaurusKev

    Sable won't start

    Great! Glad to hear it
  13. TaurusKev

    Sable won't start

    Hi! Welcome! Sorry to hear, when the theft system light comes on, does theft light come on for 3-5 seconds solid then shut off? Also, when the mechanic cranked the engine with the tool to the solenoid, did the engine start? If so I would rule that system out. Neutral safety switch unless testing the component could be a viable solution. The way this system works is when the key is rotated to start, the 15 amp fuse (Fuse 21 under the driver side interior) will energize, test for 12 Volts on both sides of the fuse as there's small metal tabs you can probe with a multimeter, if this energizes when key is moved to Start, the ignition switch is good, if not - bad ignition switch most likely, or if you have any aftermarket remote start system or anti-theft system, that can cause problems. From there, Fuse 21 feeds the transmission range sensor, and that requires car to be in P or N during the key in the start position. If that switch is good, current will flow to the battery junction box and power will apply at pin 85 of the starter relay, there will be 11-13 Volts DC with key being held into the start position at this relay terminal; if there is no power at pin 85 of the relay, there's either: 1. Bad Neutral Safety switch, or bad wire. If good, then If anti-theft fails, the other side of the relay (Pin 86) will not ground, thus the relay won't flow current to engage the starter. Simple way to test? Put key in ignition and should ground with key on/engine off, pull starter relay, test for ground between relay pin 86 and ground. Should have close no resistance. If that passes, anti-theft is not your problem. Then, the 40 amp fuse that is hot at all times will connect the starter solenoid to 12 Volts when the relay closes, thus engaging the starter circuit. There is a lot in diagnosing a no-start condition, but this wiring diagram will help isolate the issue. If I had to guess... I'd say either bad ignition switch (verifiable by testing fuse 21 under dash to see if you get 12 volts on both sides of fuse) or a bad neutral safety switch (verifiable by ensuring 11-13 volts flows to pin 85 of starter relay). If Anti-Theft is defective, you'll need a new PCM since that is what provides the ground for the starter relay to engage which I highly doubt is the issue.
  14. Finally got off my lazy ass and began doing some work to the Roadmaster. First time in a very long time, it was actually very nice to be outside in Illinois. That seldom happens, generally too hot or too cold. I love this floor, over winter, the garage floor became soaked in oil and transmission fluid from the oil seeping out of the rubber rotted lines, wiped right up in minutes. Nothing like a good ol' Chinese part for your All-American station wagon! At least they aren't leaking oil from the connectors. 230k+ miles in the South have worn them out. However... I am loving every time I put a wrench to this car, the bolt or nut comes out. Every time I put a wrench to other cars such as my Mitsubishi, my old Taurus Wagon, or my old Sable... (Haven't put a wrench to the Vibe yet), generally a bolt or two snap. I need to do the transmission lines too, however, the Impala SS forums are saying not to waste time replacing the transmission lines, as the only transmission line I have (I swear I bought both, but the other one was discontinued), but getting to the actual line is a pain in the ass, requiring the dropping of the exhaust The line I do have is the top one, the bottom one, the easier one, I do not, however, it's also a pain to snake these through as they aren't flexible and being a Roadmaster, the lines are a good 2 miles long to get all the way from the transmission to the front of this beast. They recommend since my lines aren't rusted/broken to just cut them, flare them, and use rubber hose with some good clamps. I think I shall do that instead, and if I ever have the transmission serviced, have that line put in later. What else does the Roadmaster need? Leaks oil, and appears to be leaking from the top, apparently the intake manifold gaskets wear out from the heat of the EGR in that region and need replacing, might as well replace valve cover gaskets too since I am in that region to help. I am hoping the oil pan gasket is not bad... That would be a nightmare since the engine sits over a brace and requires lifting it up a bit to work on it. Then I need to take off the windshield cowl to ensure a good seal around all the components due to leaking when it rains into the cabin. Then, I can start driving the Roadmaster again, which is nice because it has an amazing air conditioner.
  15. That was about a mile away from my house. Seems the sewers in that area can't handle the excessive water.
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