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Angrod

Platinum Members
  • Content count

    1231
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Angrod last won the day on June 7

Angrod had the most liked content!

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258 The Chosen One

About Angrod

  • Rank
    This Vulcan won't die!
  • Birthday 10/25/86

Profile Information

  • Actual Name
    Matt
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clairton, PA
  • Interests
    The Ford Taurus, gaming (pc), graphic design, more when I think of them....
  • Chapter
    Mid-Atlantic
  • TCCA Name
    darth_v8er_dude

Car Information

  • My Car
    '04 Taurus SES
  • Engine
    6V30N Vulcan

Recent Profile Visitors

11646 profile views
  1. Did the brakes disintegrate during the previous hard stops? I've never heard of brakes falling apart like that before.
  2. Changed the oil in the Suzi after about 1500 - 1800 miles. It was already a dark amber. The inside of the engine must have been filthy when I got it. 4 quarts Supertech 10w-30 (recommended for the car) and a Motorcraft 910S filter. Also, found out I have a brake light out so I need to get new ones (probably go with Sylvania LED's,) found out I have a hole in the muffler (at least one anyway) and discovered that I have a large amount of blow-by in the crankcase. The only thing I know of that has any blow-by in an engine is the piston rings but it's not using any oil. I'm thinking about just venting the PCV to atmo and plugging the hole in the intake.
  3. Installed my old tach into the Suzi. It took me a while to get the wiring right but it's in and functional. The only issue is I can't get it to dim with the dashboard lights. It works in reverse of the dash for some reason. My reasons for the install are simple: 1) so that I know when I'm about to blow it up and 2) so that when I'm not driving like an idiot I can maximize my fuel economy by shifting sooner. I didn't realize I was revving to 3k on my 1-2 and 2-4 shifts.
  4. Drove it for the first time in almost 3 weeks. Wow does it feel weird. Kind of like I'm driving a big boat. The ATX feels horrible too. I never realized just how much of a slushbox it really is. One positive thing; the bull handles far better than the suzi. Cornering is so easy. Just point the bull where I want it to go and it goes there. The suzi on the other hand likes to float up front and makes up its own mind about when to actually go where I point it. Reminds me of the Crown Vic in that regard.
  5. So the check engine light keeps turning on and off. Usually takes a couple driving cycles. Not sure what is causing it. It's probably still the O2 sensor circuit fault but I don't know where the issue might be. I couldn't get the O2 sensor out to look at it (will need an impact.) The wires look good for what little length is exposed. I have noticed that I have a small exhaust leak somewhere up front as I can smell exhaust occasionally. It has a stronger than normal acrid scent. I wonder if the downstream sensor is plugged? Especially since the second cat is so far away from the engine. There is no way it gets hot enough for the catalyst to work properly. I might end up getting a new exhaust at some point.
  6. Replaced the spark plugs in the Suzi today. I had a hunch that my misfiring issues under load were due to bad or worn plugs and BOY was I right! All the old plugs looked the same. Uniform wear with no signs of combustion issues in any cylinder. The insulator on one plug looked like it got rather hot at some point, might have been combustion gas slipping past the threads. Anyways, the engine runs MUCH smoother now. No more misfires and is a lot quieter. Now about those motor mounts......
  7. Changed the wipers as the ones that were on it were all crappy. Check engine light came on last night on my way home from work. Checked the code; P0136, O2 sensor circuit malfunction, sensor 2. I got on it hard yesterday in the afternoon. I wonder if i broke some carbon loose and it plugged the sensor. Gonna take a look tomorrow.
  8. I don't know. It might only show the same codes as a scanner or it might show other codes a scanner can't read. The PCM is programmed to keep the engine RPM elevated when you lift off the throttle and gradually bring it down over a few seconds to provide a more comfortable ride. Something is feeding the PCM bad data and it sounds like the computer is keeping the RPM's elevated far longer than it should. Eventually it figures out the car is stopped and cuts back on the fuel and idle air but it still has bad input so it doesn't know how far to go and ends up stalling itself out. My first guess would be a bad throttle sensor. Bad inputs could cause the engine speed to stay elevated even with the throttle in idle position. My next guess is the trans range sensor.These cars have a built in feature to prevent 'neutral bombing.' If you shift into neutral while moving the engine RPM will stay elevated in anticipation of the trans being re-engaged. I've tried this before and I have had the rpm stay elevated for up to 10 seconds after I came to a stop. The TRS might be telling the PCM that you have shifted into neutral while decelerating and the computer is reacting accordingly. I don't suspect this one as much though as you have not mentioned any issues with the transmission outside of the deceleration issue and it doesn't explain the stalling. My last guess is the DPFE sensor. If it is malfunctioning it may be confusing the PCM and the EGR valve is getting opened when it shouldn't be. This doesn't exactly fit your symptoms though so it is less likely. All in all it's kind of a crap shoot. The only way to really know for sure if it's a sensor or not would be to hook up a special diagnostic tool and watch the sensors in real time while driving. A mechanic might be able to do this. Unless you have a code for a specific sensor or circuit fault of course.
  9. Badum tisssssssssssssssss
  10. Yes. One tells the PCM the gear selector position and the other tells the vehicle speed. There might be a continuous DTC that can help with the diagnosis. With the engine OFF, hold the reset button next to the instrument cluster, switch the key to ON and keep holding reset. After a few seconds the data center should read Engineering Test Mode and should go into a gauge test. Release the reset button. Now you can press and release the reset button and cycle through a bunch of information (it loops back to the start eventually.) One of the readouts will say if there are any continuous DTC's that are set.
  11. Yeah, the tach was deleted for this car. A Google search shows pretty much every Esteem with a tach. I have an aftermarket unit that I'm considering installing, I just have to find a place for it.
  12. No one is going to guess this so I might as well reveal it. Manufactured in Japan in 1998 for the 1999 model year, I present to you my '99 Suzuki Esteem Wagon: And that awesome panoramic view: Ok so it's nothing special. It's just something to tide me over until I have a little more money for a better car. I've taken to calling it either the Suzi or the Subaruki.
  13. Hmmm, nope. Foreign car (it was imported.) Also forgot to mention that the previous owner broke the driver's rear exterior door handle during winter last year. No biggie, just slightly annoying. What is a biggie is 3rd gear; it's useless. Somewhere along the line (not the immediate previous owner) third gear was either abused or someone rested their hand on the shifter all the time. Try to put it in third and it grinds to high heaven. Synchro is gone and I don't even feel a gate to push it through. I have just been skipping over 3rd like the PO did. All in all though it's not a bad little car. Definitely a gas sipper. I haven't done enough fill ups to average the mpg's yet but they're definitely 30+ on the highway. Also, hand crank windows and manual locks! I've gone old school yo!
  14. A bad TRS could set codes or it might not. Replacement isn't too hard. Just have to be careful to not turn the shaft it is mounted on or turn the TRS or else the indicator on the dash will not line up correctly. If that happens you have to go through a process using a 3lb bag of sand hanging on the shifter and adjust the TRS so the indicator lines up. Unless you have floor shift. If the throttle sensor is setting a code I would definitely start there.
  15. I finally get to post in this thread. Changed the oil in it. Didn't even get 2 quarts out when drained. 4 quarts of Supertech 5w30 went in with a Motorcraft FL-910s filter. Needs spark plugs and probably wires too. Driver's door dome light switch was broken. Swapped it with the one from the driver's rear door. Replaced dome lamp bulbs. Fixed the improperly installed driver's side headlight. Clutch makes one hell of a racket when under enough power or coasting. First guess is motor/tranny mounts. Need to do those soon. A/C doesn't work. The compressor doesn't even engage so my guess is low system pressure or a blown fuse. Needs an alignment as it pulls noticeably to the right. Let the guessing commence! Hint: It's not a Ford , it is a 5 speed, it is a wagon, it is a beater . (Since I bought it cash, age wasn't an issue.)