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Angrod

Platinum Members
  • Content count

    1204
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Angrod last won the day on December 9 2016

Angrod had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

245 The Chosen One

About Angrod

  • Rank
    Mahd Vahlcan Pahwah
  • Birthday 10/25/86

Profile Information

  • Actual Name
    Matt
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clairton, PA
  • Interests
    The Ford Taurus, gaming (pc), graphic design, more when I think of them....
  • Chapter
    Mid-Atlantic
  • TCCA Name
    darth_v8er_dude

Car Information

  • My Car
    '04 Taurus SES
  • Engine
    6V30N Vulcan

Recent Profile Visitors

11073 profile views
  1. Oh dear. This will be interesting.
  2. I WANT ONE!!!!! That transmission is perfect for keeping the Vulcan in its power band.
  3. Since everything in the car seems to be affected I'm going to go with something large under the hood. My first guess would be a bad battery. Maybe one or two cells aren't up to par and are causing a bad voltage drop situation. Or maybe the alternator has a serious issue (unlikely though by the sound of it.) Perhaps the ignition switch has a problem. Or maybe the PCM has come loose and the screw needs to be tightened. Just some things I would look at to start chasing the gremlins down.
  4. Your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is probably activating because your new key doesn't have the required chip (or if it has the chip it isn't programmed correctly.) When you use the new key and the engine stops does the "Theft" light start blinking rapidly? If it does then you need to get a PATS key (these keys have the large, black, rubber-like head on them.) It will be more expensive since it has a chip on it and will need to be programmed to your vehicle. A non-PATS key is only good for opening the door or trunk.
  5. I don't think he has an IMRC. His car is a 2002 and the redesigned intake was introduced in 2004. I was thinking vacuum leak too but a vac leak usually doesn't make the engine idle high. Maybe the idle air valve (or throttle) is stuck open? Or maybe the throttle sensor is bad?
  6. I passed 100,000 miles of ownership sometime in the past two weeks. I wanted to get a shot of the odometer at 169,995 but I forgot and didn't notice until I had passed 170,000. Oh well.
  7. After researching the O2 sensor codes you have an excessively rich condition that the engine cannot compensate for. Your DPFE sensor code seems to indicate a flow in the EGR system when there should be none. Try taking the vacuum tube off the top of the EGR diaphragm and attach a tube or hose that seals well on the nipple. Start the engine (might need another person) and then manually apply suction to the hose. I have used my mouth in the past (suction with the tongue, not the lungs, tastes really bad too.) If the EGR is working correctly the engine will die. If you notice no real change, the EGR is probably stuck open. Another option is to take a safety pin or really small screwdriver and insert it through one of the holes in the diaphragm housing and see if you can move the diaphragm that way. It should move easily. If it is stuck it will need to be replaced. I have seen this issue only once before on a Vulcan (U) engine. It ran very poorly at idle and smelled very rich. Found that the EGR was stuck open. No idea if it was ever fixed as it wasn't my vehicle.
  8. Again, nothing seen in those videos is the fault of the turbo. Yes it does introduce more points of failure to an engine but that is to be expected with a machine. Seals blow out like in these vids? Rebuild or replace the turbo. And saying turbo engines are a bad idea because they fail is just nonsense. I suppose I shouldn't own a Taurus then as the transmission is known to randomly bomb or the cam synchro can (and will) go bad. Or a V8 SHO with the walking cam sprockets issue. Or the V6 SHO's needing a bottom end rebuild every 60k miles. Or any of the 1,000,001 other things that can go wrong with cars. Shit happens. Cars are doomed to eventually fail the first time they are started at the end of the assembly line. Every time you run the engine it wears out a little more. Some parts are under more stress than others and can fail sooner. Just because something breaks doesn't mean it's bad. In the case of the GM engine that started this discussion, the problem is with the humans that designed the engine. Bad design in = bad results out. The machine can't be blamed for human error. tl;dr Still not the turbo's fault.
  9. Pic of the cap maybe? I thought Ford specs specifically stated to not use the orange stuff..... I will have to look into this.
  10. If it's orange it is contaminated with rust and needs to be replaced. It should be yellow. The yellow stuff is Ford's long life coolant. I have the green stuff in my car right now even though it's spec'd for the yellow stuff. Hasn't caused any issues. Just have to make sure the old stuff is flushed out good first.
  11. That's not the fault of the engine having a turbo. It's due to bad engineering on the part of GM. The engine failures he describes makes me wonder if GM is running a tune for a non-turbo engine. Melted pistons in a turbo is usually a good sign of the engine running quite lean.
  12. So I rotated the tires around today. Winter rubber is up front. All tires had good tread depth and even wear. Also found out that for some reason my rear brake drums were loose enough to remove by hand. No backing off the adjusters or anything. The shoes are worn but everything looks alright. Doesn't explain why, a couple of years ago, I could turn the driver's rear while the brakes were applied. Hmmmm.
  13. Thisthreadisworthlesswithoutvideo Looks real good! This is the kind of thing I would like to do to a car if I had the time and money (and a spare ride.)
  14. True dat. I'm only in the foothills west of the Appalachians and the dynamics of driving in snow are far different than in the mid-west. @Thub I can get the back end of my car loose real easy. Winter tires up front makes the nose of the car stick to the road like glue, even with a few inches down. The back end with all seasons is rather predictable and doesn't really get loose. However, if I intentionally and suddenly turn the wheel rather sharply the front of the car will change direction... and the back will not follow. Occasionally, when there are no other cars around I will kick the back end out to try and practice "handling" (read drifting ) but the rear finds traction again before I can do much. Still fun though.