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Posts posted by akmarch

  1. It's been a few years since I've logged in here, but am looking for some insight.


    I no longer have my 2004 Taurus (was tough to let it go), and now have a 2016 Fusion.  My 12V battery recently died and I had to have it replaced.  It was the original battery for the car, which has been in service for just under two and a half years.  The OEM battery is the Motorcraft Tough Max battery, which has a three year warranty.  My dealer told me that a replacement would not be covered because my bumper to bumper warranty expired based on mileage.  I was also told that if I'd purchased the battery separate from the car, it would have been covered for three years under the battery's warranty, which wouldn't have a mileage component.  It seems to me that if the battery has its own warranty coverage, car's warranty wouldn't supersede it.


    Does this make sense?  Has anyone else dealt with this?

  2. About a month ago I got an indication that my right-rear turn signal lamp was out (fast blink) on my 2004 Taurus.  As the car and outside temperature warmed, the signal returned to normal (regular blink).


    Yesterday, I got an indication again that the right-rear signal lamp was out.  Because of what happened last time, I didn't pay that much attention to it at first - I assumed it would fix itself.  It didn't.


    Today I replaced the bulb, but it is still not working.


    Has anyone had this issue before?  What could be the problem?  How can it be fixed?

  3. My 2004 Taurus has developed a very interesting problem this winter. When it's cold and I start the car, the dashboard light check goes on as usual. After a moment all the lights go off except for the ABS light, gas cap light, and parking break light. The DIC is also frozen with "PARK BREAK ENGAGED" - even though it is not. These lights never go out, so I have to drive the car like this.

    After I get to my destination, turn the car off, and return and restart it (the engine is nice and warm now), the lights go off as normal and the DIC returns to the normal message once the break is released.

    This problem seems to happen only when it's very cold. When the temperature is in the 30s (or warmer), it works as usual.

    I don't know what to make of this. Has anyone heard of this issue? Is it problematic? What can I do to fix it?

  4. I finally had a cooler free day that I could work on the emergency pull.

    I unbolted the trunk latch, removed the short pull and replaced it with the longer pull that came with the liner (the pull slides through a notch in the latch that makes swapping very easy). This actually turned out to be much simpler than I thought it would and took only about 20 minutes.

    Now I have the trunk lid liner and the emergency pull in the liner slot...the way it was supposed to be.



  5. I recently pulled a trunk lid liner out of a car and added it to my own car...which really dresses it up nicely.

    For those that have done the same, how have you dealt with the glowing emergency release pull? The slot for it in the liner is about a foot from where the pull is on my trunk.

    I also took the longer pull cord from the donor car thinking I'd be able to swap it out.

  6. Thanks for all the help. I wired it up this evening and put in the new RCU. It sounds great. Definitely worth the $18 spent.

    And Just so you know the door speakers and the rear shelf speakers and the same between base and Mach. I wouldn't even waste my time replacing those. If you notice when you pull out the old ones, if you do, they should have the same part numbers.

    Interesting. I thought so too until I looked. My car of course had the base system and the speakers in the back and in the doors were the same (same part numbers). The speakers I pulled (with the Mach system) had the same speakers as the ones in the back of my car but different ones in the doors. I swapped the front ones out anyway.

  7. I'm a long-time lurker, but first-time poster.

    I am attempting the MACH upgrade on my 2004 Taurus SES. I have already pulled the MACH RCU, door speakers and sail tweeters from a 2002 Sable LS.

    I will have no problem swapping out the door speakers or the RCU, but the tweeters have stumped me right now. From everything I've read, this should be a plug-and-play upgrade; the wiring should already be there. Today when I took my door panel off, I didn't see the gray wire I needed for the tweeters. I've attached a photo so you can see what I mean. Am I just being stupid and not seeing the wire, or is it not there? The car was never a fleet car, so the wiring wouldn't have been removed for that reason.

    Any thoughts or help you can give is appreciated!


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