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  1. Kodachrome Wolf

    Kodachrome Wolf

    Centennial Member


    • Points

      15

    • Content Count

      785


  2. Jeff

    Jeff

    Centennial Member


    • Points

      11

    • Content Count

      1032


  3. Brian_05_SEL

    Brian_05_SEL

    Centennial Member


    • Points

      9

    • Content Count

      7534


  4. Angrod

    Angrod

    Centennial Member


    • Points

      5

    • Content Count

      1277



Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/18 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Replaced the worn tires today. Got some Kumho Solus TA11 225/70R15 tires. Plenty of grip and they do not feel like they have as much sidewall flexing like the Firestones did. I went with these because they had very good reviews on TireRack so I figured they were worth a shot. The white wall may be gone, but the extra benefits of a wider tire with better compound is worth the trade off. Plenty of tread: Back on the base model look: I also got the shop to take the one good Firestone (about 60% tread) and have it mounted for the wagon’s spare. The wagon had a 23 year old Michelin that looked okay, but would not be trusted outside of maybe just letting the car sit on it. All in all I now have a nice new set of matching tires, a new spare for the ‘97, and a good spare for the ‘87.
  2. 2 points
    The album of pictures linked below was posted on Reddit today by an employee of the storage facility where it was just found. He said that Ford Motor Company of Canada has been keeping this car hidden away in their building for several years. http://imgur.com/a/krhVwyh
  3. 2 points
    Atmospheric compression attained: Reasons why it didn't run right: Managed to suck the valve past the seat, but nothing was amiss on the top end if you popped the valve cover and cranked over the engine. All that was known was that the compression on cylinder 1 was non-existent. The replacement cylinder heads are already on it. Just the supporting stuff remains, but it'll go quicker. Maybe it'll be back together tomorrow. Or Tuesday. Or whenever.
  4. 1 point
    So the car has been parked for over a year with 3/4 tank of gas. Fuel pump had gone bad when I parked it. Fortunately, I had added some fuel stabilizer before I parked it, knowing it was gonna sit for a little while (a lotta while). Finally got tired of the weeds growing up around it and no time or money to drop the fuel tank. Cut a hole! So much easier. Took about an hour all total. I noticed the old pump has already been messed with before. The ring around the tank seal was mangled and the top of the pump was broken from someone prying on it. New pump in, fired right up.
  5. 1 point
    So the wagon engine project is finished. The reassembly was done last week, but a driveability issue was making it run like crap. Symptoms were: Idling too high (could unplug IAC, turn on the A/C, and put into Drive and not stall), Rich smell at idle, zero power at WOT, backfiring, misfiring, and bucking. Everything you want after you an engine back together and start it. Anyway, finally had some time to get out and poke at it. Grabbed my handy paper clip and test light, and ran a KOEO test and got Code 23 for TPS out of range or set too high. Probed the wires to the TPS and got 1.48v. That's way too high. Ford likes it under 1.12v, .84-.99v is preferred, and apparently all the way down to .54v is acceptable. The TPS is slotted for some adjustment, but not that much, but I don't have a faulty TPS. It was checked out good on the old throttle body, so what gives? Well, these do have a throttle plate stop screw that really shouldn't be messed with, and the best Brian and I could come up with was it got knocked out place or fiddled with after it came off his Mustang. I turned out the stop screw while measuring voltage as it steadily dropped and tuned it to the precision point all the Mustang fanboys like at the just-oh-so-perfect point of .997v. I also swapped all the plugs and wires. When putting the wires back on, it was clear many had lost their distinctive "click" you want when installing them. Figured it wouldn't hurt to do the plugs just in case despite being low mileage (and they looked the part). The old Autolites definitely had crud blown onto them during initial firing which would have been problematic if left alone, so new NGKs were installed. Fired up easy, no vibration, and the engine idled down easy into a buttery smooth low idle. Road test was good. Throttle response is nicer with the larger bore. Has better "power" than even before the incident, and seems to breath easier with slightly less restrictive intake, heads and dual exhaust. It runs almost as smooth as the 4.6 in the '97, which is impressive for an old pushrod engine like this. A big thanks to Brian for his assistance in supplying this project the necessary repair parts! All that's left is to adjust the TV block slightly (O/D comes on at 50 MPH vs 55 MPH, shifts aren't as firm as I like), re-install the 5.0 plate, and the two front accessory bracket braces.
  6. 1 point
    That Forscan is awesome. Brian did it to my mom's Fusion SE. Was able to add the digital speedometer readout, and the detailed tire TPMS details. Before the Fusion only had an idiot light for low tire pressure. My mom (and I) when she bought her 2015 Fusion, we assumed that like most new cars, it had individual readouts fore the tire pressure, like my grandpa's 2012 Impala. Well, now she has both those enabled, and makes the car enjoyable. I have no need for a Forscan utility since all my junk is too old to utilize it
  7. 1 point
    Did a little PM work and some computer related modifications to the F150 this weekend. Started out with a transmission fluid change/pan drop and filter change on the 6R80 since I'm closing in on 60k miles. Overall it was actually pretty straightforward. Ford could have made it way easier by putting a real dipstick on the transmission but whatever I managed to reach up in between the cat and the side of the transmission with an heavy leather glove to check the fluid level without getting burned. Others who have driven vehicles equipped with the 6R80 could probably confirm how good of a job Ford did on its shift schedule and quality but with the fresh fluid it was really smooth and crisp. The Ecoboost/6R80 combo is so quiet and smooth you couldn't even feel the shifts or engine change speed, the RPMs would drop and you'd just keep moving faster. (I know that sounds like a CVT equipped car but it really just goes to show the refinement that Ford put into a pickup truck.) Manually downshifting with the toggle switch was equally satisfying. Most of the bolts removed and draining out over the exhaust...the dumbest part of the whole design and job. Inside the 6R80. You can see the dipstick in the far left front corner of the transmission, notice the massive catalytic converter right behind it where the dipstick access point is. The 6R80 is sealed well, when you crack the 19mm cover nut you can hear the transmission suck in air releasing the vacuum. Then I got to work on the some programming work with Forscan, I had previously activated DRL fog lights, so I continued with adjusting the code to allow the fog lights to remain on with the high beams. I then activated the compass feature in the IPC screen, so I have the full compass app in the IPC and a direction readout all the time on the IPC screen as well as the compass readout on the MFT screen. Several days ago I also installed the Hill Descent Control switch, turns out I didn't have to activate it using Forscan as it was already activated in my truck, just needed the switch. Needless to say that feature works pretty well, it uses ABS to keep the truck from going over a set speed. HDC and Traction Control combo switch. IPC compass app. A nice touch as the vehicle shown is actually a pickup truck.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    What do you need a pushbar and spot light combo for? AFAIK, the last police package year for Taurus was 1995. Gen IV had no such option, so the market doesn't exist outside of getting creative. Being on a forum where used cop cars are frequent, most folks go the route of de-copping a car, not the opposite way around. Some find all that stuff garners unwanted attention. Just a heads up, if you do go after that stuff, most of it requires cutting or drilling. Spotlights require holes and that invites water leakage opportunities.
  10. 1 point
    Im quite astounded how well this car turned out with just a little water and a rag. Not a lick of rust or even a dent, not a bad find for 700!
  11. 1 point
    After 7500 miles I performed the first oil change on the Feisty today. Managed to squeeze in all 5 quarts somehow.
  12. 1 point
    Daughter said the brakes on her Escape had been 'feeling funny' lately.... What brakes??? ! ! !
  13. 1 point
    Greased up the suspension points and drained the transmission pan on the '97. Just trying to get a few services done before my trip on Sunday.
  14. 1 point
    I kind of miss the old school clusters that were pitch black except for the numbers and needle. Really popped out at you. Now clusters are so bright and got a million things being displayed at once. Same with ambient lights actually. I miss cruising on the highway at night with my old Tauruses and nothing but the button backlighting to light the cab. Crank the Phil Collins lol.
  15. 1 point
    Finally put a new set of teeth on the 1987. Found a brand new lightbar for 50 bucks. Now that I have 2 of these lightbars in new condition I finally feel safe putting one on! lol!
  16. 1 point
    Some of you may not like this addition, but I decided to add the retro charger badging to my Charger. It's placed roughly the same area it would've been on the early 70s cars. I'm not 100% sure that I'm keeping it, but I do think it looks alright on there. What do y'all think? Don't mind my dirty car. I did clean the area where these were applied.
  17. 1 point
    Should have, but I needed good tires cheap like a week ago. Otherwise, those would have been on the menu.
  18. 1 point
    Hi there! 1. Is it a continuous popping or a single pop when the wheel is turned? My first guess by your initial description is tie rods, then ball joints. 2. Clogged heater core. This is a common issue on these cars. I would suggest flushing it but if it's clogged as bad as it sounds then it would be easier to just replace it. But that won't be possible just yet because of #3. 3. Not sure how to help with this one. The latch is definitely frozen but I have no idea how to get it loose. Maybe spraying penetrating oil on it through the grille if you can get a good angle? 4. Warped rotors. 5. Might be a bad strut or the strut mount broke. To change either you will have to remove the carpet from the parcel shelf which I will explain with #7. 6. Most likely a dead window regulator. I have no idea how to change these. 7. If the seat is not the split folding rear seat then you will have to remove the seat bottom to expose the bolts holding the seat back on. Push in and up on the corners of the seat bottom to detach the latches, then pull the bottom out. The bolts for the seat back are now accessible. Remove them, then lift up and pull forward to remove the seat back. If the seat is the split fold type it is easier to remove. Just fold the rear seat down and the four bolts holding it in will be exposed. Remove them, then lift up and pull forward to remove the seat back. The carpet is held on with two plastic push pins. I put the nail puller of a hammer under the carpet and pry them out. You will probably have to disconnect the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light, the brake light in the window) to remove the carpet. This should give you access to the seat belt and will also give access to the top of the strut towers.
  19. 1 point
    Finally got the dual exhaust system completed on the wagon. Took it down to a local exhaust shop that did the '97's muffler some time ago. Welded in a coupler for the passenger side tailpipe, custom bent a driver side tailpipe, and installed three hangers. In and out in less than 30 minutes for $85. They did great work. I may clean up how far it exits from the body. It's probably out about an inch. Worst case scenario I clip it back a touch with a saw, but I may just leave it alone. After the exhaust shop, I cruised it on the interstate so I could head over to the DIY carwash. The A/C did great with the heat and at freeway speed (80 MPH), you can't feel the dead miss. It cleaned up pretty nice considering it hasn't been washed down in several months and was covered in dust, bird droppings, grass, and other yard debris that settled on it. Hopefully it won't be long and I'll have the parts in hand to fix the issue. Once that project gets underway, it'll have a bit more grunt. Nothing show stopping, but it'll be above 160 HP.
  20. 1 point
    I've done some crazy stuff with my 95 in severe weather. I've actually impressed people with its versatility when they thought my car wouldn't make it up a snowy driveway. It struggled, but I did the Clarkson approach: More Power. That Essex made it up a snowy driveway and didn't give a fuck. Man I can't wait to get my Gen 2 running again... Of course... My Olds was the best Winter car I've ever driven. I couldn't even tell it was snowing out
  21. 1 point
    I like the styling of the Gen 3, but nothing beats the Gen 2 in bad weather -- I'd take a 94 Taurus over a 4x4 Jeep in snow.
  22. 1 point
    I upgraded my bulbs to sylvania ultra's for a great price. I've read that people have upgraded the harness to produce more power to the bulbs. how is this done, and which parts do i need to look for?
  23. 1 point
    The little guy circled in yellow: Ford decided in '04 to go with a heated PCV valve which is why it has an electrical connector and it also costs more than a traditional valve. It twists on and locks in place with two small plastic clips. The only way to remove the old one (afaik) is to break the clips on the old one so you can pull it out.
  24. 1 point
    This is a great mod. I just completed it on my wife's Taurus and it works great - loud audio, great quality, no fuss! The car has the CD player but not the tape player. I wanted to share a few things I did differently: 1.) Instead of removing the wires from the harness, I cut the wires and spliced into them using crimp butt connectors (original wire + new wire twisted together in one end, other side of the original wire in the other end). These provide very reliable connections as long as your crimp tool is any good (I used an Irwin 8-inch crimp tool, model #2078309). Note: if you want to cut the wires a decent distance from the harness, you will find that they are located inside a metal foil. This foil is grounded and prevents interference on the audio lines that would otherwise come from the power lines located right next to the audio lines. To keep the interference shield in place, after making my connections I wrapped everything back up in aluminum foil. If you don't put the shield back in place, you will hear a whine noise that changes pitch depending on how fast your car is revving. 2.) Instead of an audio jack connector, I just cut into an audio extension cable. This allowed me to have the wires I needed without having to solder anything to the connector. It also is great because the audio extension cable is shielded so it can help prevent interference. 3.) Since the original wires were left in place, I can still use my CD player. If I plug in my MP3 player, it overpowers the CD so that I hear the MP3 player instead. However, just to make sure that I'm not interfering with the MP3 player's signal, I created a 'silent audio CD' by burning 60 tracks that are 1 minute long and have no noise (see http://duramecho.com/Misc/SilentCd/). Whenever I want to listen to my MP3 player, I put the silent CD into the CD player. This technique is usually used when people add AUX input to cars with CD changers because they can keep the silent CD in one of the changer's slots and easily switch to that CD. 4.) Finally, I purchased a 12v to USB device (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042B9U8Q/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and an iPod audio+sync cable (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L13BNI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so that I can listen to my iPod and have it charge at the same time. Thanks again for the write-up. Very detailed and helpful!
  25. 1 point
    2000 members. Dang, this club has come a long way!
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