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  1. Kodachrome Wolf

    Kodachrome Wolf

    Centennial Member


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      9

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      805


  2. Jeff

    Jeff

    Centennial Member


    • Points

      5

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      1041


  3. Sablekid

    Sablekid

    Registered Member


    • Points

      3

    • Content Count

      37


  4. Brian_05_SEL

    Brian_05_SEL

    Centennial Member


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Yesterday I bought a place for my Mustangs and Sable to live, and it even came with a place for people to sleep! 😛 It was finally time to upgrade from my condo to a new house. The Sable wagon will be earning its keep now by hauling a lot of stuff to the new place.
  2. 3 points
    Update as of 2019. Our original intent to have the entire car painted is dead. I ended up purchasing a 1990 with no dents or rust and that is the perfect candidate for complete overhaul. Scarlet is, of course, still running the roads. Last year I took her on a nice long trip into the upper peninsula to Ontonagon, MI. About an 8 hour drive and it was smooth sailing the entire trip for 2 weeks. Was nice to have it out and about. This last year I revamped the basket wheels and had to repaint the bumper and trim. Too much had begun to flake off and was down to bare plastic. So, with the new refreshed look she made her way through the 4th of July parade!
  3. 2 points
    Kevin, Donation made. It should be enough for another year. Let me know if it came through okay.
  4. 2 points
    Got the HO swap done on the '87. Spirit of a Mark VII, just wearing the wrong clothes.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    My Buick is ready for it's dash transplant. The passenger airbag cover was cracked on the original dash and it's integral to the dash and cannot be replaced separately. I found a cream puff 2005 Century that donated it's dash to the project. If that car had been console shift then I'd have taken the whole interior to swap. I had to redye the dash pad because the donor dash was gray. It is now medium dark neutral like the original. It only took about an hour or so the strip this dash out of the car. I was surprised at how quick it went. New one goes in tomorrow. Then the whole interior needs a refresh. Jeff
  7. 1 point
    Hi y’all, I replaced my 2014 Mercedes C250 with a 2016 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost last week. This was the result of being rear ended by an F250 towing a bass boat. The Lincoln MKS is a fat bloated waste of space. Terrible storage and poor ergonomics. Overall features are nice, but lack intuitive controls. Knowing all that, I needed a safe replacement to haul my kid around, anything that wasn’t Mercedes level of ownership costs, and something I can tinker with. Enter the MKSHO! 20 years separate my ‘96 SHO and ‘16 MKS, and yet they are the same damn car. JBL stereo - THX stereo. 4 wheel active suspension (SARC) - adaptive ride control. Even the driver’s trunk release buttons are in the same spot. Now they even share Borla cat back exhausts (Ford Performance).
  8. 1 point
    Well, on Friday I picked up some old iron. 1968 Buick Electra 225 4 door hardtop. This is a one family owned car from new and was parked in 1992 when the parents passed away. It's going to need everything just from sitting around, but it's a beautiful car. 430 big block under the hood and a turbo 400 transmission. Odometer reads 19k miles and I'm inclined to believe that based on all of the OEM parts present under the hood and the factory markings still in place. I'll have more pictures soon after I do a little spring cleaning. I'm having tires mounted as we speak so that I can move it if necessary. Meet big Bertha. Jeff
  9. 1 point
    Yeah, or at least they seem to. I had a customer with an '89 Mustang complain it was acting all erratic when running, and the car was only intermittently starting. We tried to salvage his PCM since it's one of the mass air cars, but this is what I found when I got in there: The leg to that capacitor was totally rotten off. I recapped the board, but the damage was done and it had no effect on it. He had to run down one, and unfortunately those mass air Fox Mustang boards aren't getting cheaper. All my boards I've serviced varied. The '87 came with a remanned PCM in it. The capacitors on it were looking questionable and were starting to bulge out around the bottoms where the legs are. I got a PCM from an '87.5 LTD CV that was factory to it and it looked phenomenal inside. My '97 boards looked really good too, but they got recapped for longevity. The '87 Mark VII PCM looked liked it was starting to bulge, so it got recapped. Personally I'd recommend doing the work as preventive maintenance and peace of mind. Also a video featuring a slow 0-60, while trying to AOD shuffle with one hand and film/steer with the other, but I didn't lock it back in 2nd after the 1-2 shift, so it went into 3rd at 60. I've got to get my hands on a AOD HO shift governor otherwise it will shift at 4K. Great for a LoPo where it dies above 4K, but the HO doesn't fall out until 5K. Standing starts aren't the HO's forte given where the real torque comes on. It comes alive above 1800 RPM, so if stood on, the needle keeps moving steadily like it does from about 35. Reminds me very much of the '97 before it got 3.55s. Digs suck, but rolling it moved out with ease and had no problem adding speed.
  10. 1 point
    Haven't taken any fun videos. I've certainly ran it up to the max of 3rd gear, and it'll get into the low triple digits with ease. Haven't tried letting it go into 4th since I'm already tempting fate doing silly stuff like that. It definitely has the torque to motivate that weight up to speed, as compared to the LoPo stick that had a hard time getting motivated past 80. I mean, it could get past 80, but speed added on slowly. I've got some boring shots of yanking stuff apart. Under hood looks generally the same as it has, save for the HO firing order appearing on the distributor and coolant isn't dribbling down the timing cover anymore. Nothing says trouble like having much of the engine components no longer inside or attached to the engine: Checking to make sure the Mark VII PCM isn't dead: I did install it into the correct place through the firewall after verifying it wasn't junk. FWIW, I've started replacing capacitors on older Ford EEC IV and EEC V boards. EEC V ones seem to hold up better than the EEC IV ones, but capacitors aren't forever and a car interior isn't the most forgiving place depending on the climate. A lot of the 80s ones are starting to look suspect, so taking preventative measures are the best thing to do at this point.
  11. 1 point
    OP here So I tried 2 times to get my car looked at but everything is so busy the best they could offer was to leave it and they might get to it in a few hours…..I’m too busy to give up my car and bum rides that much. I often have to drive to another plant across town with no warning. So the ambient temp was 75F and I knew that was a sweet spot. So I decided to do it myself for the convenience. YES, I wanted to go to a pro as recommended but …LIFE. Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 60F. AC fan on low is 44F. Low side read 32psi with “AC PRO” nozzle – hey better than nothing. I don’t have gauges for High side L. Really not bad. Online chart says it should be 40-45psi low side. Added a 3oz bottle of PAG46 (actually 1oz 46, 1 oz mystery crap, 1 oz R134a). Since I soaked up the spilled oil with a few paper towels I figure this is plenty of oil. I estimate 1 oz after refilling the pan from a kitchen measuring cup of water to the same level as the oil lost. Then added part of a 12oz can of R134a but never could get the pressure to over 40psi. Also not sure how much went in as I later dumped the rest of that can in a Buick. Final result: Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 56F. AC fan on low is 41F. Low side read 39-40psi. 4F drop in MAC AC vent temp and 3F drop in AC temp on low fan. Time will tell if I estimated the amount of oil properly.
  12. 1 point
    Saturday, I said goodbye to my 2018 Charger after only two years of ownership and 9400 miles. I had done quite a lot to that car to make it nicer and to make it my own, but somewhere along the line I had fallen out of love with it. It sat for six months under my carport collecting dust while I drove my 98 Buick Regal GS daily. I've always wanted a truck and any time I've ever needed one I've always borrowed my dad's truck. I've always considered them as not affordable for me. Friday, a Chrysler dealer about 40 miles from me offered a 2019 Ram1500 Classic tradesman 2wd, V6 for $24,448. I figured it was a gimmick to get you in the door, but to my surprise, there was an actual truck and they were actually selling it at that price. So, I jumped on it as most brand new trucks simply aren't cost effective in my opinion. It is equipped with power group, heated mirrors, backup camera, upgraded cloth interior, bed liner, alloy wheels, chrome appearance group, keyless, 3.55 rearend, and that's really about it. So nothing special, but it was a great price! I was very surprised at how well the pentastar V6 pulls this truck. It feels nice on the road and has slightly over 6k lb towing capacity. Loved my Charger, but it was time to let it go. After acommercial paint overspray accident(water tower overspray) ruined the finish(one billion white dots on everything) and the aftermath of having all that paint cleaned off, it was just never the same. It did look near new in the end, but it literally had 2k miles on it when this happened. Just ruined my outlook on the car because it wasn't perfect afterward, tbh. All in, I'm about $28k into this truck with negative equity rolled from my Charger which I know it's terrible to do. However, I'm $7k under MSRP on this truck after the $8500 worth of rebates and the dealer offered incentives were another $1750(I believe). I don't think it was a bad deal for a brand new truck that's not totally a stripper model. So far Im getting between 18-19mpg around town. Haven't taken it on any real highway trips yet. Feels nice riding up off the ground. So that's my update!
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Kodachrome Wolf, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Problem fixed with two products - Both compliments of Dorman. Two important points, there is a rubber hose over the fuel line to protect against chaffing. Be sure to leave as much of it as you can on the line. 2nd is to make sure the 5/16" Fuel line is fully seated into the Fuel Line Union. My first attempt I failed to get it fully in and the fitting leaked heavily. Once I pushed it the rest of the way in, it sealed nicely and worked perfectly. It might be a good idea to put tape around the line to measure how far in it goes. It would give you a visual reference to see how far in you have pushed the fuel line. I would do that if I were doing it again. That would ensure proper seating into the fittings. Then just remove the tape once it is installed. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-nylon-fuel-line-unions-5-16-in.-800-191/10191248-P?searchTerm=800-191 And https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-5-16-in.-quick-connector-90-degree-w-18-in.-of-5-16-in.-nylon-tube-and-a-union-800-051/16140062-P?searchTerm=800-051
  15. 1 point
    Dorman makes a nylon repair hose with those ends on them. Most parts stores carry it in the Help! section. The premise is you can either join the nylon hose together using the provided hose barb in the package and heating the nylon on the repair and vehicle with hot water until it sets (obviously difficult while under the car, but I'm not sure a open flame would be a good idea around fuel), or using a compression type fitting to join the lines together.
  16. 1 point
    I took the suspension out of the car to resell, eibachs arent found new anymore and the sway bars are rare too.
  17. 1 point
    A little light part removal before sending shell to the graveyard.
  18. 1 point
    So I'm still alive and the Feisty is too. Been doing regular oil changes. Other than that nothing new with the car. It runs great and I have learned how to use the turbo so that I don't need to downshift on hills! I'm trying to drive tractor trailer for my job (UPS) and I plan on going for my permit next week. I hope I pass all the training and get in as I will be converted to full time which will give me a massive pay boost at the expense of having a life. But at this point I would rather have the money.
  19. 1 point
    The '97 finally received its 3.55 gears. Rear end got a full overhaul with new seals, axle shafts, and bearings. The parking brake shoes were replaced while the shafts were out. Certainly more lively with the gears. I also installed my P71 ECU and swapped in the correct speedometer gear for the VSS. The car is 95% to where I'd like it. Eventually I'll get that air ride swap done, but that's not a pressing issue right now.
  20. 1 point
    It was suspension time for Third Bull this spring. New tires, struts, swaybar links, and for good measure, a new timing belt. Rolled over to 134k not too long ago. She's still comfy to drive, and fast. ("oooh hello officer ! Do you really think this old lady in a Taurus was going that fast ?")
  21. 1 point
    long time no see everyone! I actually got the replacement to the sable, 2011 blue flame metallic fusion sport Has every option for 2011 minus the awd. Its been a week since i first drove it and i'm in shock that its mine. Already got in and installed some clear cornering lights, and i have alot more things coming...
  22. 1 point
    That sounds like a great plan. Thanks! I'll post an update later.
  23. 1 point
    If the transmission filter was clogged, I'm thinking you'd see other issues besides the light. As far as your code reader, I know some readers will spit out transmission codes, but that's not 100% every time. A higher end scanner might be able to see if there's any issues, but your mileage may vary. With regards to these transmissions, everything I've heard points to them naturally running warmer than most transmissions, leading to the fluid eventually breaking down, and of course taking out the transmission. Since usually people aren't changing their ATF all that often, there's a good reason it's easy to find Taurii with dead transmissions with maybe 120-150K. A good rule of thumb is to do regular fluid changes on the transmission, maybe about every 15-20K. Adding a transmission cooler certainly will help extend the life of the transmission. Any licensed Mercon V fluid will work fine.
  24. 1 point
    Figured since I put a refreshed dash in my Regal that while everything is apart I should refresh everything. GM never offered this version in a wheel, I don't think, but I quite liked it and thought it would really look good. It was originally all a similar shade to the darker color I used. The steering wheel backing cover is also the lighter color that's shown on the wheel. These colors are listed as GM Light Neutral and GM Medium Dark Neutral. Both interior colors I had left over from when I refreshed my 04 Impala and since I had the material what better to use! I have something similar in mind for the console/cup holder/console lid. These colors are not the factory offerings that the car was born with, but are similar and make the car look younger than it is, IMO. More updates to come! Jeff
  25. 1 point
    Call me crazy, but I love both those cars, I would take a Celebrity and a Taurus any day of the week The Taurus is a pain in the ass to work on, but it has character to it. Lot of things are on Youtube, and not that hard.
  26. 1 point
    You can change the heater core yourself to save $$$. If yours is plugged as bad as the one in the video then you would need acid to flush it clean. I don't know if you have to drain the cooling system for this or not. I forgot that the struts can pop like that when they wear out (although 71k miles sounds premature.) The bearings might have gone bad which I believe is known to cause a popping sound or feel. And a manual from an '02 will be fine for your car. The 2002 and 2003 cars are both Gen 4 and there weren't any significant changes.
  27. 1 point
    Bite your tongue, young man! I consider 3 as a rather good START....
  28. 1 point
    This is a great mod. I just completed it on my wife's Taurus and it works great - loud audio, great quality, no fuss! The car has the CD player but not the tape player. I wanted to share a few things I did differently: 1.) Instead of removing the wires from the harness, I cut the wires and spliced into them using crimp butt connectors (original wire + new wire twisted together in one end, other side of the original wire in the other end). These provide very reliable connections as long as your crimp tool is any good (I used an Irwin 8-inch crimp tool, model #2078309). Note: if you want to cut the wires a decent distance from the harness, you will find that they are located inside a metal foil. This foil is grounded and prevents interference on the audio lines that would otherwise come from the power lines located right next to the audio lines. To keep the interference shield in place, after making my connections I wrapped everything back up in aluminum foil. If you don't put the shield back in place, you will hear a whine noise that changes pitch depending on how fast your car is revving. 2.) Instead of an audio jack connector, I just cut into an audio extension cable. This allowed me to have the wires I needed without having to solder anything to the connector. It also is great because the audio extension cable is shielded so it can help prevent interference. 3.) Since the original wires were left in place, I can still use my CD player. If I plug in my MP3 player, it overpowers the CD so that I hear the MP3 player instead. However, just to make sure that I'm not interfering with the MP3 player's signal, I created a 'silent audio CD' by burning 60 tracks that are 1 minute long and have no noise (see http://duramecho.com/Misc/SilentCd/). Whenever I want to listen to my MP3 player, I put the silent CD into the CD player. This technique is usually used when people add AUX input to cars with CD changers because they can keep the silent CD in one of the changer's slots and easily switch to that CD. 4.) Finally, I purchased a 12v to USB device (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042B9U8Q/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and an iPod audio+sync cable (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L13BNI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so that I can listen to my iPod and have it charge at the same time. Thanks again for the write-up. Very detailed and helpful!
  29. 1 point
    Ford announced a voluntary recall on all 2000-2003 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable models with the 3.0L Duratec today. This is a recall on the throttle cable. The brackets can become disconnected or damaged, leading to a sticking throttle condition. Ford began mailing letters last week, and dealers are instructed to repair the vehicle even without the letter. Repair will involve either reinforcing the bracket, or replacing the entire cable assembly with an improved one.
  30. 0 points
    Welcome to PTSOC, Previous Taurus and Sable Owners' Club. We still have memories of good times, but the cars aren't there anymore.
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