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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/31/18 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Yeah, I think it’s reached that point where 2007 and older Tauruses and Sables are no longer the most reliable or cost effective choice of transportation for many of us.
  2. 3 points
    So I bought a car. Both the Taurus and Suzuki were on the way out. Taurus was leaking tranny fluid from somewhere and had a bad fuel leak. Suzuki had been making a popping noise up front for a while when turning that eventually started happening even when going straight. My guess is cv joint(s) going out. Rather than spend money on the cars that I would never be able to get back I decided it was time to get something newer. Behold my new daily driver/grocery getter, a 2014 Ford Fiesta 2018 Lamborghini Huracan! (Hey! I can dream, can't I?) Not a whole lot of room in the back 2014 Fiesta (CPO), 31000 miles, Ecoboost 3 cylinder, 5 speed manual, power windows/locks, EATC, SYNC, cruise, heated seats (don't really care for this feature), ambient lighting, other stuff I'm forgetting. So yeah, Not exactly what I wanted. I was looking for a Fusion or at smallest a Focus. Only problem is the Fusions kept selling before I could get to them or they had issues and there are almost no manual trans Focii available right now with decent miles. This popped up and I decided to pounce before someone else got to it. Not bad though. It's very comfortable for a small car and the fuel mileage is awesome. My only real complaint is how stiff the suspension is. Every time I hit a bump the rear end gets loose.
  3. 2 points
    I think these cars are just prone to inner tire wear. Any part of the suspension or steering is worn, you’re gonna get inner tire wear. Even worn subframe bushings. 2-3 years is a reasonable expectation between alignments before components wear out and advance tire wear. You can drill the spot welds and cut the little tabs to allow an extra few tenths of a degree of camber adjustment.
  4. 2 points
    Got a set of trim rings. They haven’t been touched in a while, decided to clean them in the sink. Well, I flipped one over to clean the retaining ring area and a live, angry scorpion fell out. Saw another pair of pinchers sticking out of another end. Hella nope. I sent the one in the sink down the drain and doused the damned ring with brake clean and tossed the lot outside on the deck. These things are staying outside and I’ll clean them with the hose instead.
  5. 2 points
    Pulled this beast about 400 or so miles yesterday. Yes it is absolutely at the limit of what the F150 can handle without a weight distribution hitch but the Ecoboost pulled that 8000lb trailer with ease. I definitely would have preferred to pull this trailer with a 3/4 ton truck, that extra front end weight of the bigger truck would have made the drive more comfortable. In this picture I just had the trailer jack off the ground so the full weight of the empty trailer is on the truck.
  6. 2 points
    Run a RWD 3.5 EB at WOT and then we'll talk about dangerous, your lucky to keep the thing going straight. And thats in a vehicle that weighs more than two of those Fiestas. Just remember Matt...respect the power. Vulcanator, I think the salt brine is as bad if not worse than regular rock salt, the dust it creates gets on and inside of everything.
  7. 2 points
    Or, uh, a really grumpy 302 while attempting to keep pace with some Fusions...
  8. 2 points
    Got the Fiesta to touch triple digits on Thursday morning. I was late for work, traffic wasn't letting me merge onto I-70 and the Transit van waiting behind me kept creeping ever closer to my bumper. Once I had an opening I let it rip to redline in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, then went to fifth and kept it pinned until I reached 100. I then coasted for a mile until I caught up with traffic in front of me. Never saw the van again and I felt a little better. The car was surprisingly composed for being so small and light. Moral of the story: Don't get in my way when I'm mad and running late. I do dangerous things.
  9. 2 points
    On Sunday I ripped out the '87's single diaphragm booster. It was on it's way out giving me an awkwardly stiff pedal and constantly hissing when depressed. Ratty, rusty thing: I really don't know who was in charge of harness routing on these cars, but they routed three major harnesses, two important vacuum lines (cruise and reservoir), and the cruise control cable across the booster. Vacuum lines are easy since they just pull apart. The cruise control module unplugs and can be swung out of the way. The harnesses, not so much. It takes some unique maneuvering to get those where you want it. And to top it off, the booster can't be pulled straight out because the wiper motor is in the way. You got to pull it forwards as much as possible, then take the right hand side and pull that forwards and keep turning it, angling it, and turning it until it slides out from all the harnesses. Getting the bolts out under the dash were less annoying than the physical removal. Anyway, the replacement booster resolves all of those issues. It's one spec'd for a '92 Panther, but it's better all around. It's half the diameter, but a dual diaphragm setup. It offers greater effort than the original one. Even though it sticks out a bit further, it easily just slips in between the harnesses and such. If you look above the main harness that goes over the booster, you can see where the plastic cowling has a rounded edge where the old booster would have fit into. The brake pedal feels so much better now and gives a more confident feeling when slowing down. Anyway, that's crossed off the to-do list. Still need to get the exhaust system finished up. Duals are in place, but over the axle pipes need to be welded up along with some appropriate hangers. It also is awaiting a top end refresh since it's believed to have a burned valve on cylinder one (the exhaust will suck in paper when held a 1/2" away). I'm recording 10 PSI on that cylinder and it runs with a dead miss. But, since the heads are coming off, there's no sense in not giving it a small power bump. Another 302 around here that's getting it's own top end refresh will be donating some parts along to fix another 302. Once that's all said and done, maybe I'll start driving it again. I've been very limited when I take it out since I don't like driving on seven cylinders and it's absolutely killing the gas mileage. I've driven it so little the last time I put gas in was January, and it was finally low enough to fill up on Sunday.
  10. 2 points
    Did my first mod to the Fiesta today. LED license plate bulbs. Looks a lot better compared to the incandescent lights that were in there.
  11. 2 points
    Ooooo nice! Now you can race Brian with his shiny V6 'Stang. Also, is it just me, or does it seem like a lot of us are all getting new cars all at once?
  12. 2 points
    Got pulled over for speeding last night. Driving through a small town, speed limit 55mph. This older Toyota Tundra is tailgating the F150 in the right lane. I’m in the left lane, about even with the F150 when the Tundra begins tailgating me. Speed limit increases to 65mph as we leave town. The F150 and I both get up to 65~70mph. Tundra is still on my ass, looking as though he will go into the oncoming lane to pass me. After a moment of this, I decide to put some distance between us and mash the throttle. As I'm watching Tundra headlights shrink in my rear view, I notice the brake lights of a late model Dodge Charger illuminate in the opposite lane of traffic. State Troopers drive Chargers. FFUUUUHHHHH.... I start looking for somewhere to safely pull over before he’s even completed turning around, his red and blues are flashing. Trooper approached from the passenger side “Everything OK?” I explain why I was speeding. He asks “Were you aware of your speed?” No sir. “I clocked you at 112.” D’oh!!!! He made some chit chat, as cops always do. Nice gentleman. He asked about where I worked, a nearby hospital, learned we were both in the Army. He said he couldn’t let me off without a citation considering my speed but he did type a nice comment on the ticket, stating I was evading a tailgater and gave me extra time to take care of the ticket with a friendly judge. Fair enough. He says, “If there’s any consolation prize for this, it’s that you are the fastest car I’ve pulled over in my 10 years of patrolling this stretch of highway. I’m not counting sport bikes, but cars, you’re the fastest.” We both laugh. I reply to him that my wife won’t find it that funny, and mention she’s a 911 dispatcher for the county. The trooper turns his head for moment, looks back at me and asks “Who’s your wife?” I tell him her name. He replies, “Hand that back to me, all of it, just hand it back. Watch your speed, thank your for your service, and have a good night.” I didn’t name drop to get out of the ticket, I had already signed and accepted it. As I began to pull away he hollers to wait. He walks back to the driver’s side and says “I turned off my camera. If anyone asks, you got a ticket. Good night.” Yes sir!
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    My Mustang will be undergoing some significant engine upgrades. Today was the “before” dyno pull to establish the stock engine’s baseline power output. When everything is completed sometime over the next several weeks, there will be an “after” pull to show how much of an improvement there is.
  15. 2 points
    Presently going over my wiring for my ride air swap on the '97. I wound up grabbing a RAS/EVO module from a Town Car, oops. It's setup somewhat different from a CV/GMQ in terms of wiring pinouts. 99% of the wire color matches my '97 EVTM, which is good. I did get some help on CVN and found out what that one wire I couldn't ID did. I forgot that '95-'97 Town Cars have a steering power adjustment switch on the dash. You can vary the assist somewhat using it. That might be a hard item to integrate, but would be totally worth doing since I'm already going to be fairly deep into this job. Assuming I get this package together with minimal kinks, I'll have most of the options available on a similar year Town Car, save for the memory seat option (very uncommon) and the lack of a digidash.
  16. 2 points
    Now its not fun. All the bolts spun out beautifully.
  17. 2 points
    I just did a fuel pump on friends 2000 Taurus. Wasn't too bad a task. Fun.
  18. 2 points
    I think Brad, our ‘97 Taurus-wagon-turned-truck that we use around the property, is gonna be put out to pasture (I guess it’s kinda been out to pasture, now it’s headed for the slaughterhouse). It’s had a slight misfire for the last 6 months. I kinda suspect a failed head gasket. It never runs long enough to overheat, but it has consumed coolant. Today I noticed transmission fluid leaking from one of the metal lines along the front of the subframe. This was a northern car, so it has some rust. I paid $400 for it about 4 years, it had a major crack in the transmission case. Since I sawzall’d the back half off to make it a truck, it has been quite handy hauling logs, rocks, and trash around he property. Mable, the ‘05 Sable needs a fuel pump. I parked it last year, and that’s the last time it started. I hear nothing from the pump when the key is turned.
  19. 1 point
    So this problem seems to plague a lot of 2004 - 2007 Vulcan engines. There are a lot of places where a vac leak can occur but this one seems to stump people. The symptoms usually include hard starting when cold, surging/erratic idle and hesitation on acceleration. My car was exhibiting the first two and was probably on its way to the third. After spraying starter fluid and checking all vacuum hoses I couldn't find any leaks. Then, while searching online, I found a topic on the other site that explained this problem and I decided why not put up a howto here? Before starting it's always good to make sure you have the correct engine (only 2004 - 2007 engines have this part). The engine should look like this: You will need the following tools and supplies: 1/4" drive ratchet, 6mm (7/32") socket, T30 torx bit, flat head (standard) screwdriver, a new gasket (OEM part # 87072 S91 or the gasket from an oil filter will work [bosche 3312 filter or similar - i used one from a Motorcraft FL-400s]). Recommended tools: Socket extension(s) at least 3" long. The part in question is this thing here (red arrow): Apparently this part goes by a couple names - the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) and the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV). I will be using the former as it seems to be more descriptive of its function. To start, first remove the top piece of engine cowling on the passenger side by removing the clips - be careful! Use the screwdriver to help pry them off (yellow arrows in pic above - 1 clip is out of frame). Also be careful of the vacuum hose marked with the green arrow. Don't break it or the car will have a fit (I believe it controls the evaporative emissions system). Next you must remove the three screws holding the lower cowling on (see yellow arrows in pic below). This is where a socket extension would come in handy as there is very little space between the cowl and the metal under the windshield. Now that the cowl is removed you have access to the screws holding the IMRC on, as well as the PCM and the cabin air filter (under the windshield behind the strut tower). Disconnect the wire harness to the IMRC. It has a small push clip on the firewall side. Push it in and pull the harness off. You should be able to do this with your thumb and index finger. The screws for the IMRC are diagonally opposite each other and require a T30 torx bit. The lower one might be a tad difficult to reach. Remove the screws and pull the IMRC out. Mine fell out (see pic) with very little effort. Not good for a vacuum seal! Now, use the screwdriver to (carefully) remove the old gasket. Once out of the groove it should slip right off. Now you need to remove the gasket from the donor oil filter (or if you have the OEM replacement just grab that and skip to the part about installing the new gasket.) The new gasket should be the same size around as the old one. If it's thicker around (like mine was) you will need to cut it so that you can get the IMRC back in the manifold. Next, slide the new gasket on the part and seat it in the groove. If it doesn't sit flat it might need trimmed or you might need a slimmer gasket . It might be a good idea to lube the new gasket before reinstalling the part with some sort of grease or lubricant (not wd40!!) I used heavy weight gear lube as it was all that was available. (see bottom of post for update) Now you can reinstall the IMRC (be sure to align it). It might take some pressure (not excessive!) to get it on but that's good! It means you have an air-tight seal. Now all you have to do is reconnect the wire harness and reinstall the cowling. And that's it! The car might drive funny the first time after this fix but that is because the fuel trims are now incorrect. The computer will adjust them over the next few times you drive the car. You can also force it to relearn the trims by resetting the computer. Simply disconnect the battery negative terminal for a few minutes to clear the PCM memory. Note: This fix is only temporary and will most likely wear out. The best thing to do would be to replace the bad gasket with another OEM one. But if you are cheap like me (and the Ford dealer is closed) this will work fine. Update: So I had the IMRC out today. It wouldn't pull straight out so I had to twist it a little to break the seal between the gasket and intake manifold. Almost 4 years and I still have an airtight seal! Not bad for a quick hack fix. I lubed the gasket with wheel bearing grease before reinstalling. Here's hoping it makes it several more years!
  20. 1 point
    So, back to the Endeavor... After first carefully cutting off the nut with a dremel, I could not free this. After frustration of breaking a ton of pullers, hours with an air hammer, I sledgehammered it. Then after that failed, I tried to start cutting it, but realized I was gonna need another cutting wheel to remove this thing. So I just decided to replace the halfshaft... So... I just cut it out. I couldn't slide it through the hole Tons of PB Blaster was used, but it is out. New hub, new halfshaft, parking brake reinstalled Rotor and caliper installed. I decided... To put some grease in the center to prevent it from rusting up. As PM now, any car going forward gonna apply some grease/oil to the center hubs to prevent rust from being an issue. Having 190k miles and all original, not surprised. Many other parts came out just fine thankfully. I had to unbolt the spindle to slide the halfshaft in, and all those bolts came out beautifully once sprayed with PB Blaster. All the tools I broke during this project... Thankfully most have lifetime warranties, and already returned the crappy 3 jaw pullers from Harbor Freight, the threads stripped out very easily, go figure lol. Gonna need to go to Sears and warranty all my Craftsmans before Sears closes down lol. I think what caused my hub to fail was my exhaust rusted out between the muffler and a clamp. For awhile, I just ignored it, but during the winter, all the heat from the engine would cause that entire wheel to condensate. But all new parts now, it should hopefully outlast the truck. I just want it to last another 3 years. I think that is doable. Thankfully the body was undercoated by someone so I can still work on it safely.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I've done some crazy stuff with my 95 in severe weather. I've actually impressed people with its versatility when they thought my car wouldn't make it up a snowy driveway. It struggled, but I did the Clarkson approach: More Power. That Essex made it up a snowy driveway and didn't give a fuck. Man I can't wait to get my Gen 2 running again... Of course... My Olds was the best Winter car I've ever driven. I couldn't even tell it was snowing out
  24. 1 point
    I upgraded my bulbs to sylvania ultra's for a great price. I've read that people have upgraded the harness to produce more power to the bulbs. how is this done, and which parts do i need to look for?
  25. 1 point
    The little guy circled in yellow: Ford decided in '04 to go with a heated PCV valve which is why it has an electrical connector and it also costs more than a traditional valve. It twists on and locks in place with two small plastic clips. The only way to remove the old one (afaik) is to break the clips on the old one so you can pull it out.