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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/19/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Replaced the worn tires today. Got some Kumho Solus TA11 225/70R15 tires. Plenty of grip and they do not feel like they have as much sidewall flexing like the Firestones did. I went with these because they had very good reviews on TireRack so I figured they were worth a shot. The white wall may be gone, but the extra benefits of a wider tire with better compound is worth the trade off. Plenty of tread: Back on the base model look: I also got the shop to take the one good Firestone (about 60% tread) and have it mounted for the wagon’s spare. The wagon had a 23 year old Michelin that looked okay, but would not be trusted outside of maybe just letting the car sit on it. All in all I now have a nice new set of matching tires, a new spare for the ‘97, and a good spare for the ‘87.
  2. 1 point
    Some of you may not like this addition, but I decided to add the retro charger badging to my Charger. It's placed roughly the same area it would've been on the early 70s cars. I'm not 100% sure that I'm keeping it, but I do think it looks alright on there. What do y'all think? Don't mind my dirty car. I did clean the area where these were applied.
  3. 1 point
    Better be a Panther or B-Body Station Wagon!
  4. 1 point
    Should have, but I needed good tires cheap like a week ago. Otherwise, those would have been on the menu.
  5. 1 point
    Hi there! 1. Is it a continuous popping or a single pop when the wheel is turned? My first guess by your initial description is tie rods, then ball joints. 2. Clogged heater core. This is a common issue on these cars. I would suggest flushing it but if it's clogged as bad as it sounds then it would be easier to just replace it. But that won't be possible just yet because of #3. 3. Not sure how to help with this one. The latch is definitely frozen but I have no idea how to get it loose. Maybe spraying penetrating oil on it through the grille if you can get a good angle? 4. Warped rotors. 5. Might be a bad strut or the strut mount broke. To change either you will have to remove the carpet from the parcel shelf which I will explain with #7. 6. Most likely a dead window regulator. I have no idea how to change these. 7. If the seat is not the split folding rear seat then you will have to remove the seat bottom to expose the bolts holding the seat back on. Push in and up on the corners of the seat bottom to detach the latches, then pull the bottom out. The bolts for the seat back are now accessible. Remove them, then lift up and pull forward to remove the seat back. If the seat is the split fold type it is easier to remove. Just fold the rear seat down and the four bolts holding it in will be exposed. Remove them, then lift up and pull forward to remove the seat back. The carpet is held on with two plastic push pins. I put the nail puller of a hammer under the carpet and pry them out. You will probably have to disconnect the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light, the brake light in the window) to remove the carpet. This should give you access to the seat belt and will also give access to the top of the strut towers.
  6. 1 point
    Finally got the dual exhaust system completed on the wagon. Took it down to a local exhaust shop that did the '97's muffler some time ago. Welded in a coupler for the passenger side tailpipe, custom bent a driver side tailpipe, and installed three hangers. In and out in less than 30 minutes for $85. They did great work. I may clean up how far it exits from the body. It's probably out about an inch. Worst case scenario I clip it back a touch with a saw, but I may just leave it alone. After the exhaust shop, I cruised it on the interstate so I could head over to the DIY carwash. The A/C did great with the heat and at freeway speed (80 MPH), you can't feel the dead miss. It cleaned up pretty nice considering it hasn't been washed down in several months and was covered in dust, bird droppings, grass, and other yard debris that settled on it. Hopefully it won't be long and I'll have the parts in hand to fix the issue. Once that project gets underway, it'll have a bit more grunt. Nothing show stopping, but it'll be above 160 HP.
  7. 1 point
    I upgraded my bulbs to sylvania ultra's for a great price. I've read that people have upgraded the harness to produce more power to the bulbs. how is this done, and which parts do i need to look for?