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  3. Yeah, or at least they seem to. I had a customer with an '89 Mustang complain it was acting all erratic when running, and the car was only intermittently starting. We tried to salvage his PCM since it's one of the mass air cars, but this is what I found when I got in there: The leg to that capacitor was totally rotten off. I recapped the board, but the damage was done and it had no effect on it. He had to run down one, and unfortunately those mass air Fox Mustang boards aren't getting cheaper. All my boards I've serviced varied. The '87 came with a remanned PCM in it. The capacitors on it were looking questionable and were starting to bulge out around the bottoms where the legs are. I got a PCM from an '87.5 LTD CV that was factory to it and it looked phenomenal inside. My '97 boards looked really good too, but they got recapped for longevity. The '87 Mark VII PCM looked liked it was starting to bulge, so it got recapped. Personally I'd recommend doing the work as preventive maintenance and peace of mind. Also a video featuring a slow 0-60, while trying to AOD shuffle with one hand and film/steer with the other, but I didn't lock it back in 2nd after the 1-2 shift, so it went into 3rd at 60. I've got to get my hands on a AOD HO shift governor otherwise it will shift at 4K. Great for a LoPo where it dies above 4K, but the HO doesn't fall out until 5K. Standing starts aren't the HO's forte given where the real torque comes on. It comes alive above 1800 RPM, so if stood on, the needle keeps moving steadily like it does from about 35. Reminds me very much of the '97 before it got 3.55s. Digs suck, but rolling it moved out with ease and had no problem adding speed.
  4. Oh crap... I worry about that with my 94 and 95's I have... Do they suffer from capacitor leakage like computers do?
  5. Haven't taken any fun videos. I've certainly ran it up to the max of 3rd gear, and it'll get into the low triple digits with ease. Haven't tried letting it go into 4th since I'm already tempting fate doing silly stuff like that. It definitely has the torque to motivate that weight up to speed, as compared to the LoPo stick that had a hard time getting motivated past 80. I mean, it could get past 80, but speed added on slowly. I've got some boring shots of yanking stuff apart. Under hood looks generally the same as it has, save for the HO firing order appearing on the distributor and coolant isn't dribbling down the timing cover anymore. Nothing says trouble like having much of the engine components no longer inside or attached to the engine: Checking to make sure the Mark VII PCM isn't dead: I did install it into the correct place through the firewall after verifying it wasn't junk. FWIW, I've started replacing capacitors on older Ford EEC IV and EEC V boards. EEC V ones seem to hold up better than the EEC IV ones, but capacitors aren't forever and a car interior isn't the most forgiving place depending on the climate. A lot of the 80s ones are starting to look suspect, so taking preventative measures are the best thing to do at this point.
  6. There's a starter relay I would look into I believe. Also, I believe the transmission range sensor, if malfunctioning, can also prevent it. Are you experiencing any other issues?
  7. Hello all. Sorry the forum went down for a few. And sorry I have not been on as much. Being a full time student and student teacher is not easy... Anyway, with that said. I want to share with everyone that the forum has been fixed, but I am not updating much right now. Here's where we are at: Invision (This forum software) is expired. So I cannot update the license. The cost for that appears to be $25 for 6 months. Next, is our domain (taurusowners.com) - That is $12 per year. This expires on June of 2020. Next, is our hosting service. it appears that is $5 per month. From what I can tell, those are our costs. So, yearly operations is about $122 a year, of course, with taxes, I am going to say about $130. I will maintain this site as best as I can, but I am a poor college student, I can't afford to do much other than volunteer. There's a donate button at the top of the page if you are inclined to donate. If I see donations pour in, I will continue to maintain the site as I do now. If you are interested in helping grow the site, let me know, I can use extra volunteers. Otherwise, the current state of the forum is, once we run out of money, the lights will go dark. I will try to keep more up-to-date information to everyone here. As always, one of the forum administrators can be reached at taurusowners AT gmail.com. I love our community, but forums do not appear to be the future which does make me sad. Questions, concerns, comments, please leave them below! As always, Thank you!
  8. I want to rig up a loss of coolant sensor for my 2015 3.5NA Taurus Limited in case I have water pump failure or leak as the water pump is internal and grenades the motor from hydraulic forces before the temperature gauge can go up. 1 Is the reservoir/pressure tank even the correct place for said sensor. When I drained the radiator, the tank never drained. After refilling, the coolant seemed to siphon out of the tank at a certain height. I wonder if the damage would be done with water pump failure before the tank lost enough antifreeze to trip a sensor. 2 Is there a better place the sensor on one of the lines near the thermostat? Or maybe a Large Tee in the upper radiator hose? 3 I have found some Amazon stainless steel GEM style sensors for cheap enough (long shaft with floating SS donut around shaft). Seems I could drill a hole in top of the reservoir and still retain use of my Pressure Cap. 4 I have seen where others use a plastic piece with a floating lever/bar. That means drilling a hole in the side of the tank below the water level. Not as appealing. 5 I thought about installing a Gems sensor in the (easily replaceable) cap, but then I would lose the 18psi pressure relief and have to add something in a hose (possible). 6 Should I tie in series with the oil pressure sensor so low water would show up as low oil pressure !!! to get the point across to whoever is driving? I see only one wire to the oil pressure sensor, so I am guessing it makes connection (signal current only) when there is pressure and is open when low pressure (fail safe). So if I put the coolant sensor in line in series, it would cut the signal. I have no idea how amps, volts, and resistance come into play here as I have no specs on the oil pressure switch circuit. 7 Can I just use the right side headlight for a power source to the switch then an audible amazon buzzer since its only on when the engine is running (Auto lights is always on). False signal or maintenance alarm could be silenced by cutting the lights off. The sensors want no more than 0.5A so It might mean a relay if I can’t find a buzzer with that low of a draw. An engine on key on power source would obviously be preferred.
  9. Got the HO swap done on the '87. Spirit of a Mark VII, just wearing the wrong clothes.
  10. Wow....I'm having exact problem here in 2020 ...Starts when it wants. I turn key (2000 Sable) and get all power but no crank at all. Went a week no problem now it's back. HELP. PCM Power relay?
  11. Hi Sonic, I did my best back then to find the PID, but no joy. Couldn't find it. Were you able to add it? Where would I find it? My search was pretty long and fruitless. If you have the PID numbers would you please grace me with them?
  12. My '96 Sable was the DOHC engine with AX4N transmission. As you see I still have a 2001 Sable, same engine/transmission. Did you add the supplemental GM/Ford PID's in Torque? Those are free to add. Settings>Manage extra PID's/Sensors>click the ...>Add predefined set.
  13. Sonic - Thank you for responding! I must say, I have the paid version of torque, and looked the app over very carefully. Would you kindly tell me where you found it in Torque!
  14. I know this is late posting, but my 1996 Sable had transmission temperature available via Torque app. Same with the 2001 Ford Explorer and 2001 Mercury Sable. Also Forscan can be used to see and test all the modules.
  15. OP here So I tried 2 times to get my car looked at but everything is so busy the best they could offer was to leave it and they might get to it in a few hours…..I’m too busy to give up my car and bum rides that much. I often have to drive to another plant across town with no warning. So the ambient temp was 75F and I knew that was a sweet spot. So I decided to do it myself for the convenience. YES, I wanted to go to a pro as recommended but …LIFE. Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 60F. AC fan on low is 44F. Low side read 32psi with “AC PRO” nozzle – hey better than nothing. I don’t have gauges for High side L. Really not bad. Online chart says it should be 40-45psi low side. Added a 3oz bottle of PAG46 (actually 1oz 46, 1 oz mystery crap, 1 oz R134a). Since I soaked up the spilled oil with a few paper towels I figure this is plenty of oil. I estimate 1 oz after refilling the pan from a kitchen measuring cup of water to the same level as the oil lost. Then added part of a 12oz can of R134a but never could get the pressure to over 40psi. Also not sure how much went in as I later dumped the rest of that can in a Buick. Final result: Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 56F. AC fan on low is 41F. Low side read 39-40psi. 4F drop in MAC AC vent temp and 3F drop in AC temp on low fan. Time will tell if I estimated the amount of oil properly.
  16. https://www.carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index?id=ford+nationals 25th Anniversary this year. Hope to see you there !
  17. Honestly, if you can, unplug the compressor if you're going to drive the car. I only say that simply because it takes one errant press of a button to kick on the compressor. That said, depending on how much refrigerant leaked out, the compressor may not even cycle on. My concern would be with the lack of oil. The green fluid is the PAG oil. R134a is not going to be a liquid at room temperature at normal atmospheric pressure. You can get away running just the heat though. I'm not sure how the '15s work, but I know in my cars, turning on the defroster will engage the A/C compressor, so that's why I'd recommend just unplugging it. I know there's still a few good cold days remaining where defrost is a good idea. Personally, I'd have the system evacuated, oil added, and properly recharged. It really doesn't take much to get air in the system, even if you're just purging refrigerant on accident. Unless you're doing all your A/C work yourself, if a shop starts having to actually replace hard parts, it gets expensive quick. Most recharging services aren't that expensive though.
  18. I . GOOFED . BADLY .2 015 Taurus Limited, 3.5L. Doing the 100,000mi radiator flush (no chemicals and in the dark of night) and all online advice said the drain was on the driver’s side. All I can find is a hex plug (never seen one like that). So I turn it until I hear a hiss and small drip. Odd… I make sure I had the cap off the fill tank, then come back and give it a quick spin. A gush of vapor and fluid hits my arm and I REACT as if badly burned. Fumble…. and …throw…the wrench… then realized its actually COLD COLD COLD!!! 1 second later I realize my mistake and eventually fumble the wrench back in and tighten up the drain plug ….. for the condenser….SMH. I head gas balancing out in the system after I tightened the plug. Finished the flush but now I got a bigger problem. I lost quite a bit of gas and the catch pan had an ounce or two of green fluid (I’m guessing the oil). I know I’m banned from AC for a while so Ill either run full blast heat (HI) or turn the climate control off until I can get this fixed. I don’t know how much refrigerant I lost and how much was actually compressor oil. I have done my own AC work on cheap vehicles with success (AC PRO + Oil), but this is my “nicest” car ever so I don’t want to damage or goof up anything else. Obviously no air got in the system, but I’m definitely low on something. I have not turned the AC on to see if it’s cold or not. 1 Is it safe to drive as long as I don’t use the AC? 2 Is it safe to use the heat on HI? 3 Would much lubricant be in the condenser or was that green fluid just liquid state R134a that had not evaporated yet? 40degress F ambient temperature. Car was pointing steeply downhill and had been off from AC use for about 45 minutes. 4 I understand the AC cycle, am an engineer, but also understand I don’t have the tools to measure what I actually have left vs what I need (1.43lb R134a + 5.2oz oil per manual ). If the green fluid was just liquid state R-134a I should be able to just use a can of AC PRO. It was 40-45F outside. 5 Should I just eat the cost and take it to the dealership or a local shop? I’m guessing they would drain it and start over so they know what is in it.
  19. The one option I really wanted on this truck, but didn't get was hands free calling. I didn't realize it didn't have it until on the way home. I figured every new vehicle has this standard. Not so. I thought about buying a new radio, but that was going to be big $$ to get something that looked OEM. So, I did some research and found a few kits that integrate it into the factory radio. Mopar makes a kit and so does Rostra. I decided on a Rostra kit and managed to find a NOS kit (2014 manufacture date) unopened on eBay for $100 that is custom made to fit the Ram1500. Installed it today and it really was as simple as adding the Rostra harness between the factory radio and factory harness and then tapping one power wire from the connector in the driver's foot well. The thing works great and using Google assistant it truly is hands free. The switch looks factory and mounted up nice once I dremeled some substructure away from behind that plastic delete plate as this kit was really designed for a truck with column shift. The switch should be mounted vertical in this location, but as my truck is rotary shift I had to mount it horizontally as the delete plates are different. Very happy for the little cost and time it took to install. Jeff
  20. If your removing the high pressure hose remove the 13mm 12mm and 13m retaning bolts holding the line on its route. Use cutting wheel and cut the line off right before the nut on the rack. Use a 3\8 impact with a deep well 18mm and remove the nut. Remove 18mm nut from pump. Reinstall your new line, bleed brake system
  21. Looking for one with a Medium Gray interior.
  22. Added 5" polished stainless iBoards to the truck today. They look nice, but not too sure how I feel about them yet. Also, dropped the factory fill Pennzoil at 550 miles and swapped to Rotella Gas Truck full synthetic 5w20. Had my local Ford dealer do it so it would be documented properly, plus $14 is pretty cheap and I didn't have to crawl under it. Forgive the dirty truck. I'm going to wash it tomorrow and then I'm going to add the factory splash guards. I have the tailgate assist kit coming in the mail so I'll install that next week sometime. That's about it. Jeff
  23. My 2001 Sable Wagon was passed to my 17 yr daughter. The comment was that is long, but it moves faster than the 2000 Sonata that she learned to drive on. That Sonata is on the verge of being "let go" to greener pastures.
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