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  1. Yesterday
  2. Does the 2003 have An AX4N transmission ?
  3. I wonder if all the engineers evening working on the new Aluminum body vehicles know this exists. One would think they would want to examine as many of those older aluminum bodies as possible. Maybe since Ford played with a lot of aluminum in the past 20 years they don't need too. I see everyday on older Mustangs, Explorers, F150s, Expeditions, you name it. All had the same paint peeling and oxidizing issue, lol. The hood on my truck is looking good yet though.
  4. Last week
  5. I have two Tauruses, an 03 and an 05, both with 3.0 Vulcans. The transmission in the 03 went out a couple of weeks ago. I found out that it's a common occurrence for the splines to shear and that the rebuild is very expensive. The car has 250K miles and the front end has a lot of slack in it so I don't think I'll dump too much money in it. The 05 engine with about 125K dumped all the water out of the coolant system into the oil pan. I looked at the gaskets and didn't find any indications of leaks anywhere then looked at the heads but didn't see any indications of cracks. I decided that I wasn't going to put any money into that block since I couldn't find any leaks up top. So my question is, will the engine from the 03 fit the bell housing on the transaxle from the 05. If they will mesh up I can put some time and money into the 03 engine so I will at least have one working Taurus. I plan on pulling both engines when it cools down a bit. It's still too hot down here in south central Louisiana to want to work on them when it's not absolutely necessary for the moment. Thanks in advance for any advice.
  6. I NEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED IT
  7. ShelbyRacer78

    2005 Sable LS

    want some lowering springs, and/or a 24/26 sway bar combo?
  8. Earlier
  9. Here is my two cents worth. Officials of all three companies involved (Ford, Yamaha and Volvo) insist that the Volvo V8 is not related to the SHO engine. The Volvo V8 is a die-cast, open-deck aluminum block and is different from the sand-cast closed-deck aluminum SHO engine block. The interesting feature is the two engines share many common dimensions including bore centers, stroke, bearing journal diameters, and deck height. Check: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_B8444S_engine
  10. Spridget

    2005 Sable LS

    So the car has been parked for over a year with 3/4 tank of gas. Fuel pump had gone bad when I parked it. Fortunately, I had added some fuel stabilizer before I parked it, knowing it was gonna sit for a little while (a lotta while). Finally got tired of the weeds growing up around it and no time or money to drop the fuel tank. Cut a hole! So much easier. Took about an hour all total. I noticed the old pump has already been messed with before. The ring around the tank seal was mangled and the top of the pump was broken from someone prying on it. New pump in, fired right up.
  11. The 3.4L block uses the same diameter pistons (and rods) from the 2.5L Duratec. IIRC the SHO pistons are flat top whereas the Duratec pistons are dished. Since the rods are shared with the Duratec 2.5 and 3.0, I always thought it would be cool to bore and sleeve the 3.4L and use Duratec 3.0 pistons for a 4.0L SHO.
  12. Can it... Can it be given to TSOC? A non profit Taurus and Sable owners group? I would love to have that thing, give it a proper home.
  13. The album of pictures linked below was posted on Reddit today by an employee of the storage facility where it was just found. He said that Ford Motor Company of Canada has been keeping this car hidden away in their building for several years. http://imgur.com/a/krhVwyh
  14. Oh wow, IN the rails. That sounds like fun. Glad you got it handled!
  15. ECM RELAY can also be called the PCM RELAY. Autozone doesn't sell it The RELAY FUSE is 30A
  16. Just happened to me. I fixed it by replacing the ECM RELAY from O'Reilly for $15, number 31 on the fuse diagram. If that doesn't work, replace the ECM RELAY FUSE, number 2 on the fuse diagram Be careful of fake fuse diagrams which show only 40A fuses
  17. Spent the weekend on my back in the driveway fabricating a fuel return line for my 1986 Lincoln Towncar. Rusted out and dripping. Oh yeah - full frame car with fuel rail installed on and IN frame rails BEFORE body is set on frame. 22 feet long and dozens of bends. Used stainless steel 5/16 lines from a SHO and carefully heated and rebent them. Yep, 3 piece design to replace line without removing body from frame.
  18. Angrod

    Mach Audio - 2005 Taurus SEL

    AFAIK this affects all Mach RCU's from all years. Ford never seems to have addressed the issue. I don't have anymore info on it myself but I know I encountered this more than once in my bull. Ford doesn't seem to have learned their lesson either. My Fiesta has trouble sometimes remembering my EATC settings when I switch it off/on.
  19. TechGeek

    Mach Audio - 2005 Taurus SEL

    Thanks for the reply Angrod, do you have anymore information on this? I am wondering if it only affects certain years of the Mach RCU. I’ve been unable to find others having the same problem. This is honestly the first time I’ve even heard of this issue. It’s a bit disappointing that they wouldn’t have fixed this. Thanks again for the information!
  20. Angrod

    Mach Audio - 2005 Taurus SEL

    This is a known firmware flaw with the Mach RCU. The only way to fix is to turn the system off and back on like you already do. You can prevent this from happening at all by always turning the system off before shutting off the car.
  21. I fixed the Mitsubishi Endeavor's bladder problem. Normally, people freak out about seeing a puddle under their car, but I was happy, since this puddle was from the A/C's condensate drain. The Endeavor's drain has the same issue of having a cheap gasket between the firewall and A/C Box, and as water dribbles out, it dribbles down, and goes right back into the cabin, and flooding the carpet. Same issue the Taurus and Sable had! But this time, the Mits folks had a fix. Solution was to make a new condensate drain, and that it leaves the cabin completely. Went to Menards and found a 3/8 to 1/2 Adapter, I cut off the 1/2 part, and had some old 3/8 Tubing, made it flat, then cut a hole on the bottom of the A/C's drain, plugged the old hole up with silicone, and now the new drain works great. Drilled a hole straight down the tunnel, away from the prop shaft, and zip tied it to the frame neatly so it's not a problem no more. I gotta say, one pro to drive by wire, pulled the accelerator pedal out and was able to work comfortably. Thankfully, since the A/C didn't work for about 2 to 3 years, forgot how long I've owned this beauty, but assuming it was a problem with the previous owner too as there was a bit of rust, but nothing terrible. I treated it with naval jelly, then sprayed it with undercoating, including the hole I drilled to ensure that doesn't rust up. So now fully functional A/C, and the drain should be fixed to not flood my car no more. This may work on the Taurus if someone wants to repeat it. Might look into it on the Roadmaster as it also has condensate issues. Why didn't all cars just do this method...
  22. So I finally upgraded my audio in my 2005 Taurus SEL to Mach Audio (Mach Tweeters and Mach RCU). All the wires were there just waiting to be used and what a huge difference it made! However, I have noticed that at times the Audio seems quiet compared to what it was prior to me turning the car off. If I turn the Radio off and then back on it seems to be louder. I know I have a speaker that needs to be replaced, but would that impact all the speakers? Is this an indicator that I have a bad/failing RCU? I appreciate the help. Thanks!
  23. Hello current and former Taurus / Sables owners once again I'm here to ask some much needed questions. Only electrical questions. I'm doing a lot of mods to my 97 Sho and I need your help to finish it. A little later I am going to make a build log to show my process and completion. I have remove the battery sometime ago and removed the floor shift. At the moment I'm at work and not near my car. 1 I'm installing a backup cam in the rear of the car and would like to know which is the reverse wire or wiring color. 2 For the 3rd brake light I need to know which is the positive and negative wires so i can install my gen 4 Taurus leds. 3 Where should the resistor be put on the gen 4 led 3rd brake light board. 4 Installing a gentex 453 mirror that has auto dim, compass homelink and I want to wire it to the A pillar wiring. I need to know which wires are constant switches and negative. 5 I was on v8sho forum and read there was a unused 12 volt plug in the dash. Has anyone used this plug. I removed a switch from a gen 3 wagon and only want to use the connector. This is because I want to wire it to my wireless charger. Does anyone know the wire polarity of the unused 12 volt plug. 6 I have a 96 cluster from a Sho and plug and wiring for the led shift indicator lights. I would like to know how can I wire it so the cluster and floor shift read the same. 7 Can a 96 degas tank and washer fluid tank both with sensors be wired to my 96 sho cluster in the 97 sho. How would this be done and wired to the cluster. 8 How to wire the oem under dash courtesy lights in a car that doesn't have them. 9 How do you wire Lincoln nav power folding mirror switch to the door for the Ghia mirrors. 10 If I got front door panel wiring harnesses from a 96 Sable with the key pad and courtesy door lighting is it plug and play. 11 What is an easy way to replace door led with a different color. I ordered to led bulb sizes 5 mm and 3mm. 12 Will my power antenna still work if I use my carpc instead of factory rcu. 13 How to install an antenna switch. 14 Can I remove factory rcu without having problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  24. The easiest mod that worked for several folks over the years is a nice shot of giggle-gas. A 75 shot of Nitrous is about max healthy level on a stock setup. Your tranny won't live long with ANY kind of serious boost in power. When I finished building SHO R T S (Eaton M90 @ 16psi boost) I already had a heavily built tranny and Tq Converter on a bench waiting to go in when the stock tranny failed. Stock tranny last 160 miles under boost. Any kind of forced induction would be whatever you can make yourself. I have done both Centrifugal and Roots superchargers on the 3.4 SHO. Looked into a rear turbo, which on hindsight probably would have been the easiest fabrication. Not as much up-front ummph, but probably less of a shock on the drivetrain.
  25. So the wagon engine project is finished. The reassembly was done last week, but a driveability issue was making it run like crap. Symptoms were: Idling too high (could unplug IAC, turn on the A/C, and put into Drive and not stall), Rich smell at idle, zero power at WOT, backfiring, misfiring, and bucking. Everything you want after you an engine back together and start it. Anyway, finally had some time to get out and poke at it. Grabbed my handy paper clip and test light, and ran a KOEO test and got Code 23 for TPS out of range or set too high. Probed the wires to the TPS and got 1.48v. That's way too high. Ford likes it under 1.12v, .84-.99v is preferred, and apparently all the way down to .54v is acceptable. The TPS is slotted for some adjustment, but not that much, but I don't have a faulty TPS. It was checked out good on the old throttle body, so what gives? Well, these do have a throttle plate stop screw that really shouldn't be messed with, and the best Brian and I could come up with was it got knocked out place or fiddled with after it came off his Mustang. I turned out the stop screw while measuring voltage as it steadily dropped and tuned it to the precision point all the Mustang fanboys like at the just-oh-so-perfect point of .997v. I also swapped all the plugs and wires. When putting the wires back on, it was clear many had lost their distinctive "click" you want when installing them. Figured it wouldn't hurt to do the plugs just in case despite being low mileage (and they looked the part). The old Autolites definitely had crud blown onto them during initial firing which would have been problematic if left alone, so new NGKs were installed. Fired up easy, no vibration, and the engine idled down easy into a buttery smooth low idle. Road test was good. Throttle response is nicer with the larger bore. Has better "power" than even before the incident, and seems to breath easier with slightly less restrictive intake, heads and dual exhaust. It runs almost as smooth as the 4.6 in the '97, which is impressive for an old pushrod engine like this. A big thanks to Brian for his assistance in supplying this project the necessary repair parts! All that's left is to adjust the TV block slightly (O/D comes on at 50 MPH vs 55 MPH, shifts aren't as firm as I like), re-install the 5.0 plate, and the two front accessory bracket braces.
  26. Jas anyone ever wondered about how much horsepower the Yamaha 3.4 v8 can put out. What's the difference between the: 96 -99 sho v8 Yamaha 3.4l 235hp and naturally aspirated engine 05-10 volvo xc90 4.4l 288 -311hp naturally aspirated engine 09 up Nobel m600 4.4l twin turbo 450 550 650bhp 13 volvo polestar s60 5.0 620 - 640hp naturally aspirated All of the above motors are all based on the v8 Yamaha 3.4l blocks I believe bored out. The only difference I see is a 1l to 1.6l difference with or without a turbocharger. Is there a way we can mod a 3.4l sho motor so we can get better horsepower using the same or similar parts to at least get 350 hp.
  27. I want to do the big 4 upgrade with 0/1 wire. When I do the upgrade do I have to remove the positive and negative wires from the battery terminals and replace the with 0/1 guage wire. Also when I upgrade to a high output alternator what size fuse would I need for the alternator maxi fuse slot. I'm looking into getting a 250 - 325 amp alternator.
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