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  1. Last week
  2. Did a few small things on the '97 and '87. The '97 was having dimming lights at idle speed and incandescent bulbs had a noticeable pulse to them. I suspect the regulator was starting to get flaky since it would stop with higher RPMs, so I ditched the 3G for a 6G Motorcraft reman'd unit. Also installed a new belt and belt tensioner as the old one was starting to get weak. I did have to a little work at the intake where the alternator bracket mounts since the old bolt sheared as I was removing it (??? - I was rather surprised by that shit), so I drilled the sheared bolt, filled the hole with JB Weld, then drilled and re-tapped it. Works great. The '87 had moisture start coming in on one of the lamps, which resulted in the reflector coating coming off the back of the lamp quite rapidly, making light output trash. Got a set of "HD Truck Lights", AKA General Electric H5062s which are long-life substitutes to replace a standard 4652/H4656. The reflector coating is super heavy on these, and include a coated bottom. A lot of the newer sealed beams don't have the bottoms coated to reduce some glare, but the lamps often look burnt out since the color of the headlight bucket (black) just reflects inside the lamp. These are NOS from 1993, but seem to be solid so far. headlights go brrrrrrr
  3. Earlier
  4. Earlier this month, I bought a Jeep to serve as a winter beater and a workhorse making runs to Home Depot for house projects. It’s a black 2002 Liberty Limited 3.7L 4x4.
  5. I've replaced the front driver side caliper. During braking the pedal was feeling a bit "mushy", kept going in if pressed harder. On examination of brake pads, the one by cylinder was much more worn that the floating one. Bleed the new caliper with a 2' clear silicone hose (1/4" interior diameter) with the end drooped inside an empty bottle of water. The brake fluid on bottom of bottle prevents air to get sucked back in. New pads and discs too, beded in. Success.
  6. Thanks. I'm going to have my mechanic check it out. It's probably something like that.
  7. Maybe it's a bad connection due to rusted or loose battery cables, not at the battery, but at the other end
  8. Yes, i had the battery tested and it's in top-notch condition. Only a couple of months old. The odd behavior i see when the car won't start mimics a weak or dead battery - but minutes later it will usually start up like a brand-new car.
  9. Have you had the battery tested? I would do that before I dug into other things. Auto parts stores do it for free
  10. Pretty sure it was the 5-speed transmission from a first gen Taurus SHO that he used.
  11. The 3.0L may not be a powerhouse, but it'll outlast the sun properly maintained. The only weak spot you've got is the AXOD, but with some preventive maintenance, you can keep it going. I'd recommend regular ATF fluid changes about every 20K miles with Mercon V and adding a external transmission cooler. The transmission definitely runs a bit hotter than is useful naturally, which breaks down the fluid. If you do the above, you'll get plenty of miles out of it. There's a member around here, Double Negative I believe, that had TecNickal's old '87 Taurus wagon that got five speed swapped, but I forget what the donor transmission was from. I do recall it could still chirp tires going into second though.
  12. So I know I’m late to the convo here but If anyone is still active at all I have a 1989 Taurus L with the 3.0L Vulcan. It has 51k miles on it original from 89 and had one owner via my granfather and he babied the hell out of it. My question to you is what should I do drivetrain wise?? I know all about the autos going around 80k and I need a plan🧐. Any recommendations?? (p.s. would prefer Manual) ~Kyle
  13. Could it be an electronic module that has become heat-sensitive? After it sat in the shade of my yard for a while, it started on the first try. I plugged in my battery tester and it showed that the battery had a full charge and that the battery voltage was 12.8V with the engine off. So that had not been the problem, nor had the alternator. I'd had the starter replaced a few thousand miles back. The new battery has those felt anti-corrosion insulators and red conductive grease on the terminals. The cables are very tight as well.
  14. Obviously not the problem since it was only 2 days😥
  15. Thanks! I don't drive it every day. We use it mainly for hauling things that won't fit in the Corolla and for going fishing with a lot of gear. It had been driven 2 days earlier, though. I guess I'll need to crank it up at least every other day and drive it around the block. I do plan to have my mechanic replace the fuel filter; I've seen a partly-clogged fuel filter make a car misbehave.
  16. My mom had the problem of not driving it often enough. How often do you drive it? The garage told her to drive it more often--nothing could be found wrong with it I put trickle chargers on cars I won't be driving for a month or more. I think all my cars won't start after sitting for over a month
  17. Just finished the EATC install. The outside air temp sensor (OAT) is needed. It wires in parallel to the cabin air temperature sensor (as Kevin pointed out above) and lowers the overall resistance in the circuit. Before I installed the OAT, the system only blew cold air on the lowest setting (60). If I raised the setting to 65 the air became very warm. Now that I have the OAT connected, moving the temp to 65 keeps cold air blowing as it should since it's 80 outside today. So I put an EATC in a 2006 SE from 2000 and 2004 Sables. The blend door and resistor are from a 2004 Sable, while the RCC is from the 2000. The wire harness is from the 2000 Sable since it had all the wires needed. To run the diagnostics, I had to connect the factory EATC controls which is what told me the OAT was needed. Then I could connect the Metra double din adapter. The diagnostics did not work with the Metra installed. And this is information for nobody, since everyone seems to have moved on to other cars...
  18. Vehicle is a 2002 Mergcury Sagle GS wagon with 3.0L V6 OHV engine. There are approx. 180K miles on the car. It's not my daily driver, and I've only oput 5-6K miles on it in the 2 years I've owned it. It randomly refuses to start and when this happens, it sounds like the battery is nearly dead (Engine barely turns over and after a couple of attempts, it won't turn over at all). I've replaced the starter (last year) and the battery this year. Spark plugs were changed last March. When it's running, the system voltage is 13.8-14.2 V, so I don't suspect the alternator. This happened most recently today and before I found someone to give me a jump-start, I tried the ignition once more and it started right up! I am puzzled! Any ideas are welcome!
  19. Just gave the Feisty its 75,000 something oil change. Inspection runs out end of September and I just discovered a huuuuuuuuuuuge exhaust leak. I blocked the tailpipe with a rag and the engine didn't even slow down a bit. Leak appears to be by the muffler. I will take it to a local shop and see what they want for a custom job hehe 😈. Also discovered that the elbow for the windshield washer hose broke off the passenger side nozzle so now i need the elbow and nozzle, and only Ford seems to have them. Small coolant leak where the hose from the turbo goes into the coolant bottle. Replacement hose on order as well as an air filter which I'm sure needs changed by now. A little bit of oil from the PCV hose is getting in the intake. It's only a few drops at the moment. If it gets any worse I will have to get a catch can. I don't want oil coating the turbo impeller and entire intake and I certainly am not tearing the engine down to replace the oil separator. Other than that it just keeps going like the Energizer Bunny.
  20. I've got a mach amp for sale if you need one. Reach me at [email protected]
  21. Yes, you need a blank "burned" CD. The CD being inserted is what triggers the RCU to "listen" for the output. If the inserted CD has audio, that's what you will hear. You can download silent audio tracks here: http://duramecho.com/Misc/SilentCd/index.html
  22. So, my Ram has just over 6k miles on it now. Still a great truck! I’ve been trying to upgrade the looks some here and there when I find deals. Last weekend I found a set of black OEM fender flares on Facebook marketplace for $50. I drove about 40 miles away and picked them up. One had a small gouge, but the others were in fine shape. I repaired the gouged one using a plastic bumper filler kit. I did the bodywork myself and prepped all four for paint. I do not have anywhere to spray and really wanted these to look as nice as possible so I had them professionally painted. I only had time to install the front two this evening. I’m trying to get to the “that could almost be a big horn” look for my tradesman. I got such a good deal on this truck that I don’t mind making it more along the lines of what I normally like. Plus, I’ve saved money doing all this myself versus buying a truck from the factory with all this stuff. After I wear out these tires I’ll be in the market for some nice factory 20” chrome Laramie wheels for it. No issues to report really, it’s been great! Oh, besides the super dusty factory pads....those get on my nerves. I bought a set of AC Delco Ceramic brake pads to install soon(they were a great deal on RockAuto). Maybe that will help keep my wheels clean. Here’s an in progress pic. It needs a good detailing. That’s about it for now... Jeff
  23. When I click CD, it just plays the CDs in the player. I do not hear any audio from my phone at all, even between songs. I actually ended up cutting the wires about a centimeter from the 20 pin connector on the ICP and spliced in because I could get the wires out of the connector. Do I need to burn a blank CD?
  24. Right in your neck of the woods - I got 6 cars plated and insured right now or this would be the base car for my old SHOMAD idea. I got NO room. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/arlington-heights-97-ford-taurus-wagon/7181865516.html Body super clean if it is a Chicago local car.
  25. Thanks for asking. I got all that with the RCC from a 2004. Yes, I got it all again from the 2003. I decided to just try just installing the RCC (from 2003) with the other 2004 parts and it all works together. Thanks, taurusKev!. The 2003 RCC has the A/C on-demand output (pin 13) which is not duplicated in the 2004. So does anyone know how the 2004 RCC communicates to turn the A/C on. A friend thought the PCM might have to be reprogrammed I used a metra kit and put a double din touchscreen in also which was the main reason to go to the EATC. Now my radio has crapped out, its always something. Changed the connector and harness out for the radio and it worked for a few minutes then quit again. It's getting power and ground is good, but nothing happens on the screen. It's the first Pioneer I've had break in many years of installing them. Last year I took it to a Pioneer repair place west of Chicago, and they said it was fine, check my connector. So that's why I put a new harness in, but it seems the problem is in the radio
  26. Did you get the blower, control box, and module for vacuum and such? -chart-
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