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  1. Yesterday
  2. ryanmccann92

    EATC Mod Issues

    Hello, I recently performed the conversion from manual HVAC to eatc on my 2002 Ford Taurus and I was running into a couple issues. The first is the sunload sensor. I kept getting 051 and 053 codes with sensors that I pulled from the junkyard, so I purchased a new one online, but it didn't fix the problem. When I test the resistance across pins 1 and 5, I get a resistance value briefly followed by an overload reading. Also, when I test the voltage for the connector I get a reading of about 5.05 V which according to pinpoint test d3 means I have a bad rcc. Is that correct? The other issue I'm having is that the ac isn't working and the clutch isn't engaging, but if I have a bad rcc that might be fixed when I replace it. What do you think?
  3. Last week
  4. Earlier
  5. My car just threw a service engine soon light so I got it read at autozone as a P1151 code and recommended PCV valve replacement. Upon popping the hood I find a linkage sitting on the engine. The only place I can see that it may go would be to a lever on the manifold which from what I can find is the manifold runner? I’ve never changed one before and not even sure if it’s the right name for it but I’m not sure if this could also be causing the car to throw the code. Any advice would help. I’ll attach photos below
  6. My Fox body convertible had a lock actuator and plastic speaker grilles on the doors that were broken, so I got those replaced today. The weather has been mild enough to go out and enjoy cruising in this car with the top down for most of the past week too.
  7. Over the last week I've torn the Buick back down and replaced the water pump, main drive tensioner(including installing the upgraded aluminum elbow), fixed the fuel pump ballast resistor, added a new thermostat, replaced the pcv valve, replaced the idle air control valve, and mass air flow sensor and I recharged the AC. The car runs like brand new now and has had ice cold AC all week so far! My Impala sat for two years and leaked all the freon out, but has been good for three years now so I'm hoping this Buick will be the same. I have removed three of the four door panels to facilitate changing the window regulators so that the windows will work, but more importantly stay up without the need to use duct tape. I'm almost ready to register it and give it a shake down drive. Still needs a lot to be nice, but it's coming along. Sadly, I found rot under the rear door in the rocker. It was not just surface rust. I now have a 5" long hole in the door opening reveal. I'm scared to look behind the plastic rocker cover because I already know what I'm going to find. This car came from Missouri so it's not surprising really. Oh well, just a little more work to do! I'm already committed. Jeff
  8. do anyone have the pinout for it? it has 3 cables, i assume is 12v, GND and ???, if it´s just a solenoid what´s the 3rd wire for? open/closed status?
  9. Hi everybody ! I recently bought a 2015 Taurus SEL AWD. I purchased it from a governement auction, it was used as minister's limo. When I take possession of my car, I noticed the headights won't turn on. The parkings and flashers are ok. I start looking at all the fuses. All is OK. Then I noticed that the headlights are HID/Xenon. I remove the bumper and pull out the headlights. They are OEM headlights, with OSRAM ballast, OSRAM bulbs and they have really the HID projectors. I bought 2 new OSRAM bulb, remplace them, check all the connections from the bulb to the ballast, from the ballast to the headight connector. Everything is secured and not loose. Then I make some tests to the connector that came from the car to the headlights. When I turn my lights on, I got power to 1 pin, then when I turn on the high beams, I heard the sound from the flaps. I also got power to a second pin in the connector. On 2 pins (on each connector) I got no power, so probably just 2 grounds ? I take the car to the dealership, he checks the lights modules with his computer and the module is all good. With the VIN, he can confirm me that this car didn't came originally with HID healights, and confirm to me that the headlights currently on my car are original ford HID lights. I suspect the governement workshop to swap the original headights with ones (my current HID headlights) because they got trouble with them on an other car. So here is my questions : 1. It is the same connector for halogen and HID headlights ? 2. It is possible, because the car didn't came with HID from factory, even if it's the same connector, the HID won't turn on ? 3. If they are supposed to turn on, if it's a ballast issue, how can I confirm this probability without buying an other ballast (really expansive) ? 4. I know on halogen model, if a bulb burn on 1 side, the other side will not turn on too. If it's a ballast issue, will I experience the same issue (1 good ballast won't turn on because there is a bad one on the other side) ? Thanks a lot for your help !
  10. zenriddles

    engine removal

    Not easily. It is supposed to come out the bottom. Drop 4 subframe bolts and the whole pill comes out more or less after disconnecting steering, hoses, and wires. And flex pipe. Not meant to come out the top. I know of a couple people who did it more or less just to prove you COULD, but it is actually much, much more work.
  11. MDJones

    engine removal

    Greetings All: Working on an 03 wagon. Can the 3.0 Duretec be separated from the transaxle and pulled out without removing the transaxle?
  12. The F150s moonroof/sunroof took a crap on me. The plastic track guides cracked and exploded all over when I tried to open the window last week. It got suck open so I was forced to make an emergency repair. After researching the job and finding out it is a major undertaking I ordered the replacement parts from the Sunroof Doctor. I wasn't going to pay $1000 or more to someone to fix this when I knew I could handle it, just super time consuming. Step 1. Tear the entire interior apart to drop the headliner...took about 1.5 hours Step 2. Get a helper and drop the track/tray assembly that is bolted to the roof. Given the size of the F150 and the huge window this piece was huge and not easy to remove from the truck. Alot of people said to remove the passenger seat and sub woofer but I left both in to save time and maybe yelled a few more curse words in order to pull the assembly out... about 45 mins. Step 3. Disassembly the track and tray assembly and clean and prep for new parts...1 hour Step 4. Install new parts, grease, reassemble, and manually test the track and adjust...1 hour Step 5. Get my buddy to help me reinstall the track assembly in the truck and bolt up...30 min Step 6. Hook everything backup, double check everything, and reinstall interior parts...1.5 hours Step 7. Test sun roof and make adjustments to track and glass alignment for final fit...30 min Step 8. Clean interior of the truck since it was a total mess from the job...30 min That made for over a 7 hour job, probably closer to 8 with breaks and other screwing around. All spread out over 3 days. Easy to see why this is a +$1000 repair when it takes a full day of labor. I didn't take many pictures since I was in total "get the job done" mode. Here's one with the headliner dropped and the track/tray assembly removed. You can see the massive side curtain airbags covering the entire cab. Here's the track and tray assembly removed from the truck. I had just drilled the rivets out holding the back portion on when this picture was taken, explaining all the metal shavings. Otherwise the truck has been doing great. I towed 6000 lbs a few weeks ago from Madison to Green Bay and it drove excellent. With a heavy wind on my tail and towing that load I got upwards of 20mpg. (Empty 2200 lb trailer into the wind got me 14 mpg)
  13. Valvoline is crap. Lol. Valvolines racing oil is okay though brian - coyote?
  14. No Show

    AX4N knocking?

    Hi everyone. I have a '99 Continental with the AX4N. Car has about 87k miles. I'm posting here as the actual Continental site I'm usually on is basically dead. Since more people here seem to be knowledgeable with the AX4N and most AX4N hits come back to older posts here, figured it was a good place to start. Anyhow, I've developed a "knock" that seems to be coming from the trans area. I've tried a long rubber hose up to the ear and oil pan is quiet, heads are quiet, block is quiet, but to the right bottom corner of the side pan for the valve body on the trans, it seems to sound more pronounced (basically the casting area). Very hard to pinpoint the location, other than it seems to be the trans. No CEL. Originally, it would only do it in D, R, or P. N was quiet and free-revving in N didn't make it knock. It was easier to hear when near something the sound could bounce back, like in a drive thru, road barrier, etc.. On some rare occasions, it'll go completely silent regardless. Been doing it for about a year, but car hasn't seen that many miles in that time span. It shifts OK, but can be lazy kicking down out of OD to 3, like when starting up a small, longer hill, it wants to stay in OD even though RPMs are too low for it (like almost 1200 rpm and still in OD) but manually forcing 3rd it'll kick down. About a year ago, had it flushed, then fresh fluid with new filter. Sound started within 500 miles of that. As of now, the knocking seems to be getting more pronounced. I can hear it with the windows up. It will knock a little quicker in frequency when accelerating harder, but not quite the same as an actual main bearing knock from my own experience, and it doesn't get louder with higher rpms. It's not quiet in Neutral now, but is still quieter than P, D, or R. Any ideas?
  15. Well I finally got to do the test on brake switch car still stalled then I disconnected the master cylinder switch still stalled-, I got a different OBD2 scanner w/ live data I'm going to run that as soon I get chance to and post the Data!
  16. 2015 Mustang just rolled 36k miles, and got an oil change. I also mounted a new rear spoiler on the trunklid. 1989 Mustang just got a full performance rebuild on its AOD transmission. I’m picking it up from the shop tomorrow morning.
  17. Two Thursdays ago I changed the oil "early" in the Fiesta. It was deep amber after only 5000 miles. The last two changes went for 7-8000 miles before the oil was that color. Either the engine was dirty inside or Valvoline is crap.
  18. I haven't posted about this car before, but about a month ago I acquired, via trade deal, a 1998 Buick Regal GS with the supercharged 3800 drivetrain, 159k miles. It's mainly sat in my yard for weeks, but yesterday I changed the supercharger coupler (was worn and causing a rattle/knock and likely why the previous owner stopped driving it), changed the engine and supercharger oil, replaced idler and tensioner pulleys as needed(three were bad), and put new belts on. Today after Easter service I tore down and put new front brake pads, caliper brackets(pins we're seized), and turned the rotors. I still need to do the rear brakes, rebuild the front and rear suspension, replace three window regulators, and get some new tires on it. Also, it's desperate for a paint job. It has that classic 90's GM white paint peel going on. I think it would look good wearing rosemist and I happen to have plenty to do it in that color so that's likely the way I'll be going with painting it. Despite its decrepit looks, It's actually pretty fun to drive! I've only taken it down the street since I've not registered it yet, but that blower noise is addictive. It has good bones and I'll have it turned around in no time, I hope. Jeff
  19. got all the lifters replaced...ordered myself a diablosport tuner to disable active fuel management
  20. Goldenhound

    Transmission temperature PIDS

    Wolf, you are so right. But the damage has been done. Did I mention that the current transmission is a rebuild just about 6 months past its warranty? The guy that did it won't even return my calls to talk about it. I think he's scared. The car can't seem to hold a cruising speed either in OD or '2'. It shifts up too quickly and then falters in sub 2000 rpms. I have to pump the accelerator to make it drop down to a lower gear, until it gets up to cruising speed, and then feather it with the gas pedal. It reminds me of a car that is flooding with the wrong mixture. Or bad plugs or wires; both were replaced, as well as a fluid/filter drain and replace, and a new fuel filter. This was all done last month.
  21. Kodachrome Wolf

    Transmission temperature PIDS

    When was the fluid last changed on your transmission? Do you have an aftermarket plate cooler installed? Frequent fluid changes with Mercon V and an external plate cooler seems to help extend the life of these transmissions.
  22. Goldenhound

    Transmission temperature PIDS

    I was afraid of that. That's why I'm looking for the PIDS to verify it. My transmission is acting funny and I've already replaced it once. Could be heat related. Still looking to see if anyone might be more positive; either through experience, or a solid knowledge of the PIDS made available for my car.
  23. TaurusKev

    Transmission temperature PIDS

    I am pretty sure that the 1999 did not support trans temp as OBD-II in those days were primitive.
  24. 1999 Mercury Sable wagon, DOHC 24-valve engine. AX4N transmission. Using a Bluetooth OBDII adapter and an android app, I'm trying to determine if my transmission is over heating. But, I'm not sure if Ford built in an OBDII PID to the on board computer monitor the transmission temperature. Is there a list of PIDS for my 1999 sable? I have exhausted all my ideas on where to find such a thing or if there was even a Trans temp PID created for my model?
  25. I can not find wire diagram for brake circuit if there is any way you be able to get one that would help I'll be checking Boo switch this morning with the fluid sensor and I will let you know the resaults
  26. I added to my fleet last night. We needed a newer car to replace the 09 Fusion we had as it had 150k miles on it and was still mechanically sound, but everything else was falling apart. I went to Fletcher Dodge in Jonesboro, where I purchased my 18 Charger a year ago, just to look really and dream about upgrading the Fusion. I went inside and they had a single black 2018 Challenger sitting there with a big reduced sticker on it. So, needless to say I brought it home at a decent price(I thought) just a tad over $25k. Car had 88 miles on it and is equipped with the pentastar V6, optional 3.09 gear ratio rear end, paddle shifters, super sport package, premium cloth interior w/houndstooth inserts, heated mirrors, alpine sound system, 8.4 UConnect w/nav just to name a few. No moon roof, but that's fine by me. Sad to see the Fusion go because it was paid for, but happy to not have to worry about potential problems and it's quirks. So, I guess I'm just a Mopar guy now. Still love Ford, but never had much luck at my local dealer and, even though, I like Brian and enjoyed buying from him, I told myself I was never travelling that far again to buy a car! lol. Jeff
  27. I can't say I've seen a car that just plain out stalls regardless of gear selection (Park, Drive, etc...) with just mashing down the brake pedal enough. Outside of an electrical issue or mechanical issue, I'm a bit clueless. Only electrical stuff I could consider for the brake system though would be the brake light on/off (BOO) switch under the dash and usually the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder. If you wanted to rule those out, you could disconnect them both. Just take note, you may want to place the car in neutral before disconnecting the BOO since the shift interlock should be tied to that. If you disconnect that first, you won't be able to shift out of park. If it still stalls after all that, there may be an underlying mechanical issue that we're not seeing. FWIW, not every trouble issue will set a fault code, so while diagnostic codes are helpful, we can't always be reliant on them.
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