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How Much Is Too Much To Replace My Balljoint?


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43 replies to this topic

#1 steveg1988

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 01:31 PM

my 2003 sable has developed balljoint death on the right side. talked to my mechanic who pretty much said, fuck the ball joint, it has to be pressed in. So he is putting a whole control arm in for 125 installed, think i am getting a fairly decent deal, also. Do you think that it is a decent repair procedure versus the whole removal of the brake, and axle assemblies?

I cannot do it myself due to lack of space to do it, and tools.

#2 Rusty

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 01:34 PM

125 is a steal.

Posted Image

Well there ain't no shame in a job well done, from drivin' a nail to drivin' a truck!

As a matter of fact I'd like to set things straight: A few more people should be pullin' their weight!

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#3 steveg1988

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 01:39 PM

125 is a steal.


Thanks, i wanted to double check that.

This is the same place that will do my a/c for 250 if i supply the parts.

And did the axle on the 92 sable for 60 bucks, with me supplying the new axle.

#4 Woodsman

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 03:27 PM

I am having a ball joint put on my Taurus today. It failed inspection.

Expecting a $250 bill when I get out of work tonight. I'll let you know.

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#5 tehrookie

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:59 PM

Yeahhh. Gateway quoted me for $750 to replace ball joints on both sides.
I gave them a lot of offs to go f*** before I hung up dude.
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#6 Woodsman

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:29 PM

Man, am I pleasantly surprised.

Ball joint replacement on the left side came in at $200 including a New York State inspection. I really thought that it was going to run high.

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#7 Bull Geek

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:25 PM

Considering on the Gen 3/4 it's a giant PITA.

You have to break the bond between the control arm and the ball joint (worst part of the job). Then remove the axle nut. take off brake/rotor. remove the knuckle from the strut and press old off and new on. Big job.
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#8 bobby

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 12:43 AM

I just seperate the ball joint from the knuckle, zip off the axle nut and push the axle in from the hub and hang it from the strut with a bungee, then prop the whole strut assy out from the inner fender/body with a rubber hammer, then press the ball joint in and out, probably takes less than an hour now, must have been taurus month for me, getting pretty good at it

#9 SoNic

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 03:41 AM

BTW, the CV nut is not reusable.

#10 bobby

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:22 AM

the book says it is not reuseable, but I have done probably over 100 cv axles/ball joints etc to where I had to remove CV axle nut, always re-used it, never had a problem, just don't over-torque it!

Edited by bobby, 17 May 2012 - 08:22 AM.


#11 -chart-

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:33 AM

the book says it is not reuseable, but I have done probably over 100 cv axles/ball joints etc to where I had to remove CV axle nut, always re-used it, never had a problem, just don't over-torque it!



Agree on reuse of half shaft nuts.

Ford garage did my '02 Lin to put a half shaft on due to slipping tone ring. They reused the nut.

This is one place torque needs to be accurate. The torque determined the preload on the bearing.

When I did not have a troque wrench over 100# I used to take my weight and do some math and get the distance from the socket out on a breaker bar and put maksing tape there. Then just stand on that spot with one foot.

Example. I am 200# so 10 in. out gives me 167 ftlb.

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#12 Kolar

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:56 AM

Considering on the Gen 3/4 it's a giant PITA.

You have to break the bond between the control arm and the ball joint (worst part of the job). Then remove the axle nut. take off brake/rotor. remove the knuckle from the strut and press old off and new on. Big job.


I hear you, I ended up breaking 1 ball joint remover and bending the second one before it came free.
Two years teaching them to walk and talk, next 16 years trying to get them to sit down and shut up.
My advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.

#13 -chart-

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 10:52 AM

I hear you, I ended up breaking 1 ball joint remover and bending the second one before it came free.



Suggestion that I have used. #1

I note from the JY that people use a saw and cut the shaft of the ball joint to remove a spindle/strut.

When others replace a BJ, they often overtighten the nut and set the taper too tight to remove with conventional methods.

For what it is worth.

-chart-

#14 Woodsman

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 11:53 AM

The ball joint repair fixed quite a bit of the clunks, and other front end problems that I was noticing. The car is pleasant to drive again.

I am glad that it was identified, and solved.

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#15 steveg1988

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 02:38 PM

200 bucks later the car drives better but it still clicks over bumps.

#16 -chart-

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 02:53 PM

200 bucks later the car drives better but it still clicks over bumps.



OK, then I would be checking the stabilizer to strut links.
See pic typical repacement.

Can be had RockAuto from ~$12 to $35.

-chart-

#17 steveg1988

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 02:58 PM

OK, then I would be checking the stabilizer to strut links.
See pic typical repacement.

Can be had RockAuto from ~$12 to $35.

-chart-


Doesn't that require dropping the subframe to replace?

#18 three50one

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 03:17 PM

Doesn't that require dropping the subframe to replace?


No it doesn't, but its easier with the whole front in the air.

Id rather do a ball joint the the control arm though that control arm is a pain.

#19 steveg1988

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:24 PM

No it doesn't, but its easier with the whole front in the air.

Id rather do a ball joint the the control arm though that control arm is a pain.


Thats good, i might have to do that this weekend, when i get some time and money.

#20 -chart-

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:33 PM

Doesn't that require dropping the subframe to replace?



Sway bar link to strut is just two bolts. Needs both wheels off the ground at the same time so they are not under stress.

My daughter's '98 Taurus, under warrenty had a clunk and the dealer replaced the lower control arm and it did not fix it.
Back to dealer than they did the sway arm link. They did the expensive and labor job and missed the little job. Maybe 15 minutes for a dealer per side for sway arm links. They just did one side.

Helped my son-inlaw with a Buick Van just out of warrenty. He jacked up one side and put wood blocks under the cross member and had both wheels off the ground.
The ball turned and he could not get the nut off the old one. I used vice grips on the stud and that was the answer.
Sway bar links fail on other brands too, but as noted, the Taurus was nearly new, and the Buick was about 40K.
Best of luck.

-chart-




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