Jump to content

Welcome to Taurus & Sable Owners' Club

Welcome to Taurus & Sable Owners' Club!
If you are not a member, registering to our forum is easy! To get immediate access to everything we have to offer, click here to register and get started! If you're already a memeber, sign in here.

Registering gives you access to:
  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • List your car in the Garage for everybody to see your car and it's mods
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Buy and sell parts in the Marketplace
  • Take part in the car meets and events each year
  • And much more!
Guest Message © 2014 DevFuse

What Weight Of Oil For 2002 Sable?


  • Please log in to reply
14 replies to this topic

#1 Skyflite

Skyflite

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 45 posts
  • Location:Western Arkansas
  • TSOC Chapter:Not Enrolled
  • My Car:2002 Mercury Sable
  • Engine:3.0 V/6

Posted 18 December 2011 - 05:58 PM

Was just wondering what weight of oil should I use for my 2002 Sable GS with 3.0 V/6? On the oil filler tube it says 5W-20. I live in west central Arkansas where it gets sometimes 100 plus in the summer and sometimes right at zero in the winter. My driving is mainly around town with occassional trips out of town. In the past I've been a big fan of 10W-30 oil but want to really baby my Sable and do what's right for it. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

#2 SoNic

SoNic

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 202 posts
  • Location:Virginia, USA
  • TSOC Chapter:Southeast
  • TCCA Name:SoNic67
  • My Car:1996 Mercury Sable
  • Engine:Duratec V6 3.0


Users Awards

Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:10 PM

Duratec engine (24 Valves)? How many miles?

The original recomandations for that engine were 10W-30. Because of new fuel efficiency standards, Ford lowered that to 5W-20. Personally I don't think they change nothing in the engine, so basically they pass the federal standards based on increasing wear on their clients engines.

To protect at start-ups and in low temperatures you need to go as low as possible with the first number. 5W is good if it comes from a syntethic oil. 0W syntethic would be even better. The standard oils will have to be additivated so much to get there, that at 2000 miles they will loose the additives and become more like 15W or even 20W...

For the second number - represents vascosity of the oil at operating temperatures. Oil will get close to the water temperature regardless how hot is outside.

I did use till recently 5W30. Now, because I am at almost 180k miles I decided to try 5W40 (Shell Rotella T6) and I like the way the engine sounds with it.It's there to stay.

Edited by SoNic, 18 December 2011 - 07:29 PM.


#3 TaurusKev

TaurusKev

    Post Whore

  • Platinum Members
  • 4,426 posts
  • Location:Schaumburg, IL
  • TSOC Chapter:Midwest
  • My Car:89 T-Bird SC 1995 Taurus LX Wagon and Thunderbird LX
  • Engine:3.8L Essex V6 Supercharged, 3.8L Essex V6 NA, and 4.6L Modular V8


Users Awards

Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:26 PM

5W-30 in the Vulcan, Runs better. 5W-20 is like piss water.
LFSW
I've always been mad
I know I've been mad
Like the most of us, it's very hard to explain why you are mad even if you're not mad.

People embrace mediocrity. That's why the Camry sells so well.


#4 Skyflite

Skyflite

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 45 posts
  • Location:Western Arkansas
  • TSOC Chapter:Not Enrolled
  • My Car:2002 Mercury Sable
  • Engine:3.0 V/6

Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:49 PM

My engine is the standard 3.0 Vulcan. Think I'll go with the 5W-30 as the engine has 123,000 miles on it. Maybe when it hits the 150,000 mark might go with the 5W-40 Shell Rotella. I used to work at the Wally World automotive department (it's been 8 years and I've slept some since then) and a lot of folks swore by the 5W-30. Do any of the high mileage oils work any better?

#5 outatyme

outatyme

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 265 posts
  • Location:N. Florida
  • TSOC Chapter:Not Enrolled
  • My Car:1997 Ford Taurus GL
  • Engine:3.0L (2V) Vulcan V6 (OHV)


Users Awards

Posted 18 December 2011 - 08:42 PM

0w-30 mobil1 synthetic in my 97 vulcan. Was running motorcraft syn blend 5-30 and when winter came I figured the 0w was probably better for the engine.

#6 Millermagic

Millermagic

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 391 posts
  • Location:CNY
  • TSOC Chapter:Not Enrolled
  • My Car:2000 Jeep Cherokee
  • Engine:AMC 242 Six


Users Awards

Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:16 AM

0wxx would be good for cold starts, yes. I use Castrol edge 0w-20 in my Focus for that reason. My Jeep gets Rotella 5w-40.

I would try to stay close to the manufacture's recommendations for oil weight. If the engine is designed for 5w-20 and you run 5w-40 in it ... you're going to have lubrication issues. Flow, not pressure, determines lubrication.

#7 mwt

mwt

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 344 posts
  • Location:Tulsa,OK
  • TCCA Name:mwt
  • My Car:2000 SES
  • Engine:24Valve DOHC

Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:18 AM

I run 10/W30 on my duratecs and Vulcan.

They all have a lot of mileage on them.

The 20 weight was invented to reduce friction and help meet CAFE standards. Not to protect the engine.

Mike
B)
The voices in my head don't like you.

#8 Spridget

Spridget

    In a shed, doing maths

  • Platinum Members
  • 1,930 posts
  • Location:The Lone Star State
  • TSOC Chapter:Southwest
  • TCCA Name:spridget
  • My Car:1996 Ford Taurus SHO
  • Engine:3.4L V8

Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:11 AM

0wxx would be good for cold starts, yes. I use Castrol edge 0w-20 in my Focus for that reason. My Jeep gets Rotella 5w-40.

I would try to stay close to the manufacture's recommendations for oil weight. If the engine is designed for 5w-20 and you run 5w-40 in it ... you're going to have lubrication issues. Flow, not pressure, determines lubrication.


If 0w-50 was available it would not harm the engine and would not pose a lubrication issue. Heavier oils have more cling and higher pressure tolerances. It would put more drag on the crank but would protect the bearings better than a thinner oil. Flow does not determine lubrication. Lubrication is determined by the physical properties of the lubricant molecule. Thinner multi-weight oils were developed for better fuel mileage. Multi-weight oils behave like thinner oil at cold temperatures which helps protection at startup by getting the oil up to reciprocating parts sooner and increase in viscosity as temps rise to maintain protection. Thinner oils do not cling to cylinder walls as long so a cold engine (has been sitting) will have less protection and lubricant as its all drained into the pan. Multi-weight oils offer the cold start benefit of thin oil with the high temp protection of heavier oil.

5w-20 has the same cold properties of cold 5w-40. Run 0w-20 in a diesel and you'll ruin it. Higher compression needs heavier oil. Sure it will get oil through the pump faster on cold starts but it doesn't offer the protection required for longevity.
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Repeat.

#9 Rusty

Rusty

    WARNING: Viewing my posts may be harmful to your mental health

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,074 posts
  • Location:Southern PA
  • TSOC Chapter:Mid-Atlantic
  • TCCA Name:snoopy2003taurus
  • My Car:2003 Taurus SEL
  • Engine:3.0 24V


Users Awards

Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:19 AM

I run a 5W-30 blend on both cars. Valvoline in the Ford, Castrol in the Chevy.


Posted Image

Well there ain't no shame in a job well done, from drivin' a nail to drivin' a truck!

As a matter of fact I'd like to set things straight: A few more people should be pullin' their weight!

If you want a cram course in reality, you get yourself a workin' man's PH. D.!


#10 rdh2

rdh2

    Devoted Member

  • Platinum Members
  • 1,062 posts
  • Location:Martin, MI
  • TSOC Chapter:Midwest
  • TCCA Name:rdh2
  • My Car:2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
  • Engine:4.6L


Users Awards

Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:29 AM

5W-20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend or 5W-30 full synthetic is what I run and I am at 219,000 on the original engine on my '02 Vulcan.
Posted Image
Posted Image

#11 Skyflite

Skyflite

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 45 posts
  • Location:Western Arkansas
  • TSOC Chapter:Not Enrolled
  • My Car:2002 Mercury Sable
  • Engine:3.0 V/6

Posted 19 December 2011 - 12:04 PM

5W-20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend or 5W-30 full synthetic is what I run and I am at 219,000 on the original engine on my '02 Vulcan.



Was just wondering if the brand name of the oil makes any difference? I've used Quaker State and Castrol in the past plus Pennzoil.





#12 rdh2

rdh2

    Devoted Member

  • Platinum Members
  • 1,062 posts
  • Location:Martin, MI
  • TSOC Chapter:Midwest
  • TCCA Name:rdh2
  • My Car:2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
  • Engine:4.6L


Users Awards

Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:00 PM

Was just wondering if the brand name of the oil makes any difference? I've used Quaker State and Castrol in the past plus Pennzoil.


Whenever I use full synthetic, I get whatever is on sale at Advance. Its usually Castrol, Valvoline, or Quaker State.
Posted Image
Posted Image

#13 Vulcanator

Vulcanator

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Location:Cranbrook, BC
  • TSOC Chapter:Canada and Alaska
  • TCCA Name:spock power
  • My Car:1999 Ford Taurus SE
  • Engine:3.0 Vulcan


Users Awards

Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:08 PM

I've been using Mobil super 2000, it's alot easier than mobil1 on the wallet which is almost 50 bucksPosted Image. It's a syn blend btw.

#14 Spridget

Spridget

    In a shed, doing maths

  • Platinum Members
  • 1,930 posts
  • Location:The Lone Star State
  • TSOC Chapter:Southwest
  • TCCA Name:spridget
  • My Car:1996 Ford Taurus SHO
  • Engine:3.4L V8

Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:47 PM

I use walmarts super tech synthetic 10w-30 in all my vehicles and motorcraft filters in the Fords. Occasionally I use another brand full synth if its on sale. It rarely gets below freezing here but regularly above 100 in the summer.
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Repeat.

#15 steveg1988

steveg1988

    Devoted Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,257 posts
  • Location:NJ USA
  • TSOC Chapter:Mid-Atlantic
  • TCCA Name:steveg1988
  • My Car:2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
  • Engine:2.4L 4G64 16V SOHC 4 Cyl


Users Awards

Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:56 AM

A word about Wal-Mart brand oil, at least the synthetic one.

It is made by one of two companies, Warren Petroleum Products (WPP), and Shell Oil Products US (SOPUS) Either way, it is a bargan.

When i do my own oil i normally get Mobil Super 5000, and a Motorcraft FL400S filter (when i did it on the sable, i presume the 2003 sable i have uses a FL400S as well) Costs me about 15 bucks and it is good oil.

Personaly i would say in a warmer climate 10W30 would not be bad at all, 5W30 in a colder northeast type climate, and 0W30 in siberia like climates, aka north dakota.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users